How do I remove front wheel hub and wheel joint on a 2001 dodge ram 1500 4x4

Jack up your Dodge Ram. Block the wheels to keep it from rolling as you work. Get started by removing the first tire and wheel assembly. Remove the hub extension and the brake caliper as well as the caliper adapter.

Remove the grease cap, cotter pin, nut lock, nut, washer and outer wheel bearing. Now, pull the old rotor off of the spindle. Clean the area with a damp cloth to remove any debris. Pack the wheel bearings with grease.

Install the new rotor and hub onto the spindle. Replace the outer wheel bearing, washer, and then the retaining nut. Torque the nut to 30 to 40 ft. lbs. while rotating the hub and rotor. Then tighten the nut and install the nut lock and a new cotter pin.

Clean the grease cap and then coat it with new wheel bearing grease and replace the cap. Put the caliper adapter back into place and then tighten the two mounting bolts with a torque wrench. Install the wheel and tire assembly.

Repeat this process for each additional rotor and then lower the vehicle. Tighten the lug nuts and test drive your Dodge Ram to make sure that the installation was successful.

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This is a very simple job to do. Raise the front of truck off the ground,block the rear tires. Using pliers and a hammer,remove the grease cap from hub. Remove the cotter key and nut from axle,pull out slowly and remove outer bearing. then remove hub from axle. To remove inner bearing ,prop hub on a board and use a large punch to drive out bearing and seal. Clean out inside the hub and install new bearing and seal. Replace all parts in the reverse as you took them off. Hope this will help you.

Cv joints in your intrepid? Remove the tire, unbolt the lower ball-joint, Remove the hub nut, pull outer joint from wheel bearing, pull shaft from transmission.

Get a Haynes book for your model truck for less than $20.00. It has pictures and written directions. It is easy to do.

It is foolish to work on your truck without a service manual. You can order one on the internet or go to a Strauss or Pep Boys store,

can it not be done without removing the hub ?? dont think you can get hub off without removing the track control ball joint?do you have the right tools??

You need to remove the brake calipers, and wheel hubs; the nuts that retain the wheel hubs may require air impact to break them free (at least for me they did). Once you have removed the hubs, slide out the drive shafts. You will need a vise and a hammer beat out the old u-joints.

I tried to remove the wheel hub retaining nuts with a breaker bar, and cheater bar attached; it didn't work for me. I did have to use air impact on them. The job isn't that difficult "if you have the tools".

I hope this information helps you, and I wish you luck on your repair.

the ansew i found is replacing the seal around the joint and from both end removing it and cleaning it out i had rocks in mine from going threw water and mud ita a all day deal but a twenty doller fix axle shaft oil seal is all i had to replace

That works fine on a relatively new vehicle but one that has run in salt etc you'll save a lot of time if you remove the steering knuckle completey by separating lower ball joint and outer tie rod end ball joint and bring the whole steering knuckle to a bench to separate the hub/bearing. Soak everything with penetrant, loosen the bolts a few turns and try hitting right on the bolt heads. I also made a very sharp wedge from a chisel and rammed it hard on the other side to seoarate the hub. It will finally come apart then you'll see all the **** that was binding it due to an alumininum knuckle re-acting with a steel hub. Clean the hole and grease everything and fit new bearings

I have a 2002 Dodge 1500 Ram 4x4, quad cab and had the same problem. In 2wd the clicking was constant, in 4wd it would go away. Also I had no 4wd while in 4wd, found that out after a snow storm. I took my truck to a buddies garage (a Dodge mechanic), he said this is a common problem. He pulled the drivers side wheel, hub, axle and stub axle. The stub axle splines where it goes into the CV joint and and the internal splines in the CV joint were gone. Almost smooth even. The wheel bearing was completely wore out too. I ended up replacing the hub assembly, both the inner and outer axles. Not a cheap fix either I have about $600 repair bill, but it's back on the road now smooth and quite.

Probably bad u-joints. I am not a mechanic, but just replaced mine. You may want to jack it up, remove the tire and spin the hub while looking at the u-joint right there behind the rotor. Obviously there are 2 u-joints, one for each front wheel. Not all that hard to replace, call me if you want some tricks that I learned the other day.
Chris
630-549-0155