Installed new head gasket, new timing belt, two new valves. drove 5 miles engine stalled. no spark or injector pulse. installed new crank sensor, cam sensor, coilpack, new ECM still wont start

Land Rover Freelander
P0304 AND P0305<<<<<< no engine told at all. a V6 of sorts.?
ONLY>?
misfire on OBD2 means, only weak combustion pressures there.
or weak power from those 2. only
causes are manifold.

1. bad spark plugs there. (i bet all)
2. bad /weak injectors there.
3. weak compression on this 2, (a tool tests this)
4. burned head valves there.
5. blown head-gasket between 4 to 5 (I6) (NO)
6. vacuum leaks (air) to #4 of #5 via intake man or injector seals.
7. bad spark coils. or boots on there tips a carbon wreck.
8. worse deeper engine issues, cam lobes, a mess. or piston rings.

wild guess is this your engine?
2.5-litre V6 Rover KV6 Engine petrol (2001-2006), badged as 'V6'
24-valve quad-cam DOHC.
and horrid belt drive cams super hard to fix. lacking custom tools.
Firing order. 1-6-5-4-3-2
1, 3 and 5 starting at the front of the engine. left-hand bank
means even odd banks.
means head gasket can not do #5 act this V6 not I6
why do a tuneup, 100k miles , new spark plugs and boots on COPs
there are 6 cops there, COIL OVER PLUGS.
The boots can be replaced cheap, on tips and new spark plugs
gapped to spec.
USA.(answers)

as you see COP 4 AND 5 DO NOT SHARE SPARK COILS.

Engine Cranks But Will Not Start Basic Checks:
A. Test Fuses. Test both under hood power distribution center and the fuse panel under dash. This is done with a test light tool. The test light should illuminate on both sides of the fuse, if not the fuse has failed and needs to be replaced.

B. Testing Fuel Pressure Test for proper fuel pressure with a test gauge on the fuel rail, most throttle body injection cars (TBI) are between 13 psi and 17 psi. and most (DPI) direct port inject systems are between 40 psi and 55 psi. If no or little fuel pressure is observed and there is 12 volt power present the fuel pump, the fuel pump needs replacing.

C. Checking Timing Belt Test for compression by removing a spark plug and insert a compression gauge. Crank the engine over about 5 seconds the gauge should read between 125 psi and 165 psi, if no compression is observed remove front engine cover to inspect timing belt or chain. Crank engine to observe cam rotation, if the cam does not rotate the timing belt or chain has failed. (note: if the timing belt drives the water pump it is best to replace the water pump at this time)

D. Test for Injector Pulse Remove injector connector to insert injector test light (node) or volt meter. Observe light flash or gauge pulse while cranking. If light/voltmeter doesn't respond, an ignition distributor/crank angle sensor (CKS) or an ignition module is most likely your problem.

E. Test for Ignition Spark Remove spark plug wire, insert an extra spark plug into end of wire, rest spark plug next to a ground source then crank engine. You should observe a blue spark between the spark plug gap and ground source. If no spark is observed, an ignition coil, ignition rotor or spark plug wires might have failed. (always keep hands away from engine when cranking)


The ENGINE CROSS-SECTION below (typical 'V-8' ENGINE) shows all main ENGINE components and indicates the exact location of the most HEAT DAMAGE PRONE PARTS - THE HEAD GASKETS.

are you asking this 3 times removed? really>????
is this the 4 cam v6 or 2?
the 4 cam has 2 gears for 2cams and belt drive. 6ve1
the 2 cam v6 has no gears.
6ve1 engine, they have real names and all run different EFI controls
all do.

ok no spark (tested the wrong way !!!)
fuses good. or not, we test them not guess, on (looks ok)
you need to run compression on any engine with new head (or pulled) or leakdown 10x more safe.
that be first. you can bend valves on the 4 cam engine
(not on 2valve engines,one per bank)
forget the 2 CMP sensors on rear of both heads.?
spark dead on all 6 spark plugs
ckp dead.
CMP 1 or 2 dead
fuse blown.
has 6 ignition coils right, (usa) called C.O.P.'S.

i bet you didnt scan it cranking did you
if the pcm on the 6ve1 engine, sees cams turn wrong
it cuts spark to keep from bending over the head valves
the cams must be timed correctly and not in a cavalier manor
what's your engine vin code 8th digit
that tells the helper what engine is there, as you seem not to know.
there are 3 different V6 used here.

i see you really didnt check spark, just assumed it.
why? extend one cop, use fresh grounded test spark plug
omg got spark omg on all 6 in fact
omg compression is dead. x6 bent valves.

i never ever ever, crank any DOHC engine (messed with like this)
until the leak down test passes, by hand with shop air.
this act,saves further damage

VIN = Y or W
eight digit of vin is engine code. !!!
are 4 camsl

its flooding
so, compression is gone
sparks gone
or it over injecting for some reasons
if compression is ok, 150psi +
and parks good
secret wide open throttle will clear floods, (cut fuel mode )
but all this is risky on any 4 cam interference engine.

when i put the belt back (assuming cams not removed)
I check cam timing 2 time or 3 times, or risk bending valves.
6ve1
then do the leak down test now, just like you are there.
hand turned crank. (at each of the 6 TDC points(skills)
opps its got 0psi on many cylinder
that means valves are bent.

here is the SM quote step 4 belt install
WARNING If any binding is felt when adjusting the timing belt tension by turning the crankshaft, STOP turning the engine, because the pistons may be hitting the valves.
one can just throw an engine like that back together.
they also told you to set cam timing first, before pulling heads
or damage can happen,
but that depends on the event
belt snapped, jump cogs or just leaking head gasket.

Engine compression .

code p 0300 is random/ multiple cylinders ----misfires detected ===causes ---spark plugs ---HT lead/s---injector/s---ignition coil/s---low compression---wiring
he has changed a lot for nothing
a 5 year old engine can have a lot wrong with it --so new out of a crate is no guarantee
most misfires are from injector problems
it could be a loose valve seat insert so have a compression test done if moving the injectors to new locations doesn't move the misfire

Who did all this work ? A qualified repair shop ?

That code is indicating an intermittant crank shaft or cam shaft sensor fault. Because the engine is starting then stalling, check to see if you have spark after the stall. If spark is still present, you are probobley looking at a cam sensor circuit issue. The cam sensor controls the fuel injector pulse. If the cam sensor fails on a chrysler product, the fuel injectors will not function.

The IAC [idle control motor] may be sticking. This problem usually occurs once the car exceeds 80,000 miles in service. Remove the IAC and clean it's interior with carburetor cleaner. Reinstall it using a new gasket. Sometimes, cleaning will not suffice & a new IAC must be installed. A sticking or leaking EGR [exhaust gas recirculation] valve can cause the same problem.

Since I didn't put it back together, the possible causes are numerous. Tow vehicle into nearest Hyundai Service Center and pay the diagnostic fee. They will give you an estimate of repairs (parts, labor, tax, time-frame, etc.). This way you'll know EXACTLY what the problem is and what's required to fix it. Here's a list of possible causes: Timing belt improperly installed (out of time), valves have been bent due to this, connections to engine management sensors damaged (crank sensor), intake/exhaust cams inproperly installed, leaking valves, improperly installed head gasket, no fuel pressure, no ignition to spark plugs, etc. etc. etc.

you should have the pcm scanned for dtc's... probably a bad crank or cam sensor