Left key on while fixing rear lights. only way it will start if i put a wire from hot side of battery to Coil. before this it started perfect

Red would be hot from battery. Touch each of the other wires to it to see which wire goes to the starter, it will crank. Use a test light now on the hot wire at the coil and touch the other wires to the red wire till the test light comes on, that's power to the coil. Clip it to the red wire, touch the starter wire to the red wire, engine will crank and start and remove the touched starter wire from the red one. Hook the wires on toggle switches so you don't have to fool with touching them.

Pull they coil plug. Put a wire or paper clip one one side, connect a test light to it. Start the engine and put the test light to the other pin. It should blink on and off. If it doesn't check the plug. Wires tend to break close to the plug. Take the light and hook it to the negative side of the battery. With the key on. one of the wires should have power to it.

Security light on? Turn the key on for ten minutes, off for thirty seconds. then try to start

no the wire going to it goes hot when the key is turned on. there may be a fuse under dash that supplies the engine tho, if there is no other probs a wire from battery to plus side of coil should start it. but don't leave the wire on it when not running except to try and start it as you will over heat the coil

I think the purple wire (or maybe the yellow) from the neutral safety switch goes to the coil side of the starter relay, turning it on so power is sent from there to the starter solenoid. You could check for this signal to the relay with a test light. The key must be held in start while you probe the other two terminals for the relay. If the signal is there, either a bad relay or the coil side of relay is not grounded properly. It is possible that the coil side ground is the neutral safety switch-grounding the relay's coil side only in park or neutral-in which case the nagging light on shifter (between off and run, it only works?) may be telling you the safety switch is the problem.

You may need to look at a wiring diagram, Greg. But the starter relay is the last component in the start circuit before the starter solenoid. From battery to ignition switch to "crank" fuse to neutral safety switch to starter relay to starter solenoid to starter-and back to battery through ground. That is the start circuit. Just that the wiring tying them all together makes it complicated.

did you try to jumper cable start car?
that is a NO CRANK issue, no car starts (cept mine, its an M.T) with out the starter motor working, (mine can be push started or hill started)
Jumpers fix issue?, so bad/dead /discharged battery.
so????
so is the IMMO light showing IMMO blocking, , you ever read the operators guide and see IMMO rules>
lamp on, lamp off, lamp flashing... all have meanings.
the IMMO cuts fuel, not the starter,
so its not IMMO. Its a bad starter system. (it is a system of parts)

no crank has many causes. the tests are easy with a voltmeter.
a $20 volt meter can save you the cost of a $140 battery.

It can be a free fix. (clean the battery lugs yet>?) ask how.
to start the engines (assume engine is ok and EFI ok, and spark ok)
the start system can fail like this.

1: A dead battery ,bad bat., or only discharged, a voltmeter solves this riddle. (ask how)
if only discharged, then charge it. and find cause of discharge ,1st or it will repeat.
the order here, counts.
2: bad battery to starter cables.
3: bad starter solenoid, or starter. we hot wire IT.(ask)

(fails? , bad starter,assumes battery side is good,first)
hot wire fails.
I hit the starter casing with a hammer bam, it now works.

4: starter cranks hot wired. it's good. (test passes so i then find the bad KEY line. cause,,, we now have problem cut in half.

5: the KEY line is that wire that runs from KEY (ST) to the starter , small wire.
on an A/.T car, (auto/trans) car, the key line passes thru the
PRNDL switch on tranny. so wiggle the gear shift. cranks now>?
try cranking in Neutral. some cars allow this, and
the Neutral side of the switch will like new, and car cranks.

that was the long answer.
here is the short.
Take it in. call the auto club.
guess, i guess,?
1: left head lights on.
2: battery lugs never cleaned.
3: battery died.

Change your ignition key module and that will fix the problem. Problems with key modules can be attributed to the weight of the owners key ring. Some people have massive key rings with all sorts of gadgets on them causing them to become very heavy. This puts an unexpected load on the key module and the load can double with it swinging from side to side ect... Best advise, keep the key ring simple and light.

most likely the ign switch is ok if you are getting spark. so you have a hot spark at coil and weak fire at plugs? if you have a test light check the positive side of coil for power when turning key on and cranking. if it is dropping power on positive side then ign switch could be bad. can "hotwire" coil by jumping a wire to positive side of coil to pos of battery this will eliminate ign switch.

good day... sir i think you have an electrical problem, please try to see an auto electrician before everything gets worst. there maybe some grounded wires and i hate to tell you this but faulty wirings sometimes results to car burning.