How can I determine the codes and what they mean without having to go to a garage or dealer? Can I check them with a simple VOM (Volt-Ohm Meter)? My "Check Engine" light comes on afer a couple minutes on a 1994 Ford Ranger XLT (2.3L, 2WD, Auto-trans). Being a 1994, the free code analysis available at places like Autozone will not work as they can only analyze vehicles starting with 1996 models years.

Hello hfdtjvdghvg c,

You ought purchase volume 3 (electrical) of FORD'S factory workshop repair manual...

Failing all that...

It is HIGHLY LIKELY you drawing are available for FREE at BBB Industries site bbbind.com
(below, registration required (proprietary information)).

If you check those drawings... you should be able to take a simple VOM (Volt Ohm Meter) and quickly run through EVERY FUSE
in your dash-light-DESTINATION...
and their subsequent grounds...

Without the "parking lights" issue, I would immediately be pointing at the DASH LIGHT DIMMER switch/control...

ELSE run thru all your fuses

Note:
The "TOPS" of your fuses each have metallic test points the check if the fuse has operated ("BLOWN")...

Hope this helps

BBB Industries Premium Alternators Starters Power Steering Products

Check out for a fuse or relay switch.

You will need to determine if its the switch or the motor with a volt/ohm meter. Either the switch is not sending power to the motor or the switch is not getting voltage or the motor is burned out. However to trace the problem you need volt/ohm meter. They are like $10 or less to buy. You can see how to use one on youtube videos...

2000 Avalon keyless remotes stopped working: solution Both keyless remotes for my 2000 Avalon stopped working. The batteries were good (I checked them with a volt-ohm meter). The Toyota dealer determined that the remote used most was defective and it tried to initialize the receiver in the car. This caused the second remote also not to work. The dealer reset the receiver (reinitialized it after first unplugging it), replaced the defective remote with a new one, and reprogrammed both remotes. Total cost: $225 labor, 164 for new remote. Later, another remote went bad. I just stopped using it.

Your oil pressure sensor could be bad.

You may have a short circuit in your horn button causing the
fuse to blow when you press the button or in the horn itself.

1. Locate the horn under the hood normally in the front of
the engine compartment.
2. Once you locate the horn, disconnect the wire from the
horn.
3. connect a VOM (Volt Ohm meter) to the horn's wire.
plus(+) side to the wire and negative (-) side to ground
or some metal part on the car.
4, set the VOM to dc voltage and have someone press the
horn button. You should read 12 volts on the VOM, if
not you have a short in the horn button, if you do mread 12 volts
you have a short in the horn. Replace the horn....

Unless your Check Engine light is on - you will most of the time not get a code. You can take your car to one of the after market parts houses like -Auto Zone or Advance Auto and Advance I know will check for free. There is a hook up for their machine on your car. Before that - try unhooking your negative side battery post - wait about 20 minutes or longer -30 or so and then reattach and run the car for about 25 minutes and see if things don't right themselves. If you need an oil change -DO IT NOW.
While I have your attention please take down the vin number and call the dealer - ask them about any SAFETY RECALLS or RECALLS or SERVICE BULLETINS.

Check fuses on fuse panel. Take car to autozone and have them find / locate your fuse block. You check fuses and light bulbs with a volt ohm meter.(vom can be bought @ wal-mart, target, kmart etc. an investment - not a cost.
Let there be light . . .Good luck

Hmm, That is rather whacky.

You'll need 2 (two) people, probably, unless you have a Volt-Ohm meter with really long leads.

Attach VOM (20v range DC across low beam circuit (ex: pull the bulb out and push the probes into the low beam slots). Start vehicle. Note voltage. Should be somewhere between 13.5 and 14.4 Volts DC. (If you read neg voltage, you've got the leads reversed!!!). If too high, voltage regulator may be shot.

Have someone rev the engine to, say, 3500 RPM. Measure voltage at that RPM to see if still in nominal (<14.5 VDC) range. This could also indicate faulty voltage regulator.

return everything to normal.

Oh, one other by-the-by: You're not using those HID look-a-like bulbs sold at auto parts stores, are you? They are notoriously cheap and have notoriously short lives.

Good luck.

Start vehicle, turn on low beams. with Volt-Ohm meter (VOM), m

Using an Analog Volt/Ohm Meter (VOM)

1. Turn the ignition key off.

1. Set the VOM on a DC voltage range to read from 0 to 15 volts.

1. Connect the VOM from the battery positive post to the Self-Test Output pin of the large Data Link Connector (DLC) (Figure 3).

1. Connect the timing light.

Using the Malfunction Indicator Lamp (MIL) No special equipment hookup is required. STI is jumpered to SIG RTN at Self-Test Input (STI) connector and the Data Link Connector (DLC).