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After replacing the timing belt and water pump and 6 bent valves and the valve seals,heavy oil consuption and three codes:P0505,P1259,P1505.A oil change was done,and timing is perfect,new plugs,gaskets,etc,need some help,mrmopartech 450 424 0445/514 659 0445

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6ya6ya
  • 2 Answers

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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

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keemo68
  • 1263 Answers

SOURCE: Desparate help needed with my VW passat wagon

my first suggestion is to go to a car wash and power wash the the engine all the way from top to bottom. remember to let it dry before you start it this will keep the altenator from shorting out. next check the engine throughly for the oil leak around the gaskets. you must note that silicone should never be used with gaskets on the valve covers. if your only 3/4 of a quart low this would indicated that your valve seals are most likely seeping the oil into the cylinders.( this is typical over time the seals become hard and leak, they should be soft and thus prevent leakage of oil. please rate this and post the results. I'm a mechanic and i will give you the best advice cuz that's my job aside from this site.

Posted on Sep 23, 2008

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SOURCE: 1993 TOYOTA TERCEL 1500cc Valve Seals Replaced now smokes much worse

You either have had the wrong valve seals installed, they are physically missing, or the valves are incorrect (too loose in the guides/stem too thin). The rocker arm seals will not contribute to your issue. If it did not have the oil smoke before you took the head off, the issue is with whatever the machine shop did. Valve seals have to fit TIGHT, or oil will go down the valve stem into the intake.
Take the head back to the machine shop & tell them to fix it. For free.

Posted on Sep 27, 2008

  • 11 Answers

SOURCE: how to remove valve cover gasket on a 1998 honda accord

try removing the bolts hold on the valve cover and once you do that take a razor blade and a little lube and careful scrape the old one off.

Posted on Mar 24, 2009

  • 383 Answers

SOURCE: TIming Belt 2000 VW Jetta GLS 1.8T

lrb2199: What this shop has suggested in terms of replacement is pretty much the norm.
1st, if the timing belt lets go or if it jumps time you are going to be hocking the kids to pay for the repairs.
You are looking at a Diesel engine which gets a little on the toasty side to begin with. The motor oil sometimes, depending on the selection may not be too kind on the oil seals.
When you are replacing the timing belt, there is not much more effort involved to remove the front crank and cam seals and replace them with new ones because you are right there! It's a matter of sliding a gear off or unbolting a gear to gain access to a seal.
As for the Water pump, Water pumps don't last for ever and will start to seep through what is referred to as the "WEEP" hole.
If the seal fails, antifreeze will leak onto the timing belt. Antifreeze is a very slippery substance and can potentially cause the engine to jump time. So, you have a water pump that is 9 years old and HOW MANY MILES ON IT? Personally, I would suggest putting another one on. Thermostats also have a limited service life. The part is not that expensive and with the repairs being what they are, often shops throw the labor in on replacing some parts such as thermostats if they are not a big deal. Main drive belts, again, it is a wear item, it could be well worn, possibly may have another 5,000 miles on it, but you have the opportunity to have a new one installed for just the cost of the part rather than pay labor 6 months down the road. The valve cover has to be removed to access the timing belt on some engines because of the way they are configured. Again, the part may not be that expensive, and the opportunity is there to do it while the timing belt is being replaced.
OR, the costs are nominal. Valve cover gaskets on the turbo diesel VW's do start to leak, so take advantage of the opportunity.
I can understand exactly where you are coming from because it is frightening sometimes to hear people tell their stories about what they had to pay for repair on their cars.
Brake shops as an example (NOT ALL OF THEM) seem to be notorious for selling expensive work which may not really need to be done. Example: I have been in business for 28 going on 29 years. I do not sell calipers, rotors, brake master cylinders and other costly items on the majority of the brake work which comes through my shop. WHY? Because they do not need those parts!
I had a customer who learned the hard way. We had given him a quote for brakes. In this case he did need rotors on his Mercedes.
WE use "ATE" rotors and "TEXTAR" pads which are original equipment parts. They cost a little bit more, but I don't have comebacks (complaints). The husband had to leave town and the wife thought we were too high so she called one of the national chains brake shops. They suckered her in at a price over a hundred dollars lower than mine. When she left their establishment her repair bill was a little over a thousand dollars more than my quote.
They sold her calipers, rotors, brake master, system flush, and a hot wax enema! I don't see how they can get away with things like that? I know for a FACT what that car needed because the car has been in here for regular service for over four years. His wife just thought she could save some money! I guess she did HUH?
Anyway, it sounds like your guy is on the up and up.
Got any more questions? I'll be happy to answer them.
Good Luck

Posted on Apr 21, 2009

  • 14036 Answers

SOURCE: 2001 Galant ES-V6 DTC is P0304 - Cylinder #4 misfire

look for weak valve springs.

Posted on Jun 22, 2009

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