Question about 2003 Chrysler PT Cruiser
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
Please look at the bottom of your tail lights there is 1 flat head screw there. Take it out and you can slide tail light out. You will find the back of the bulb there. Be care when returning the assembly back in place as it slide up and then you just replace the screw.
Posted on Mar 20, 2009
Place a block of wood under the engine sump to prevent damage when you jack up the engine to take the tension off the mount. Make sure you do not jack the engine up too much as you might damage the exhaust,cooling hoses etc.
Posted on Apr 07, 2009
Theirs more than one mount and they cost 60 -125 at a parts store Most fair mechanics will just change the front one and send you down the road for less than $200 for one mount. The dealer will reconmend them all and their right if over 100 thou miles and get out $500-800
Posted on Aug 15, 2009
it could, but only if the new mounts were misaligned when they were installed. did the vibration begin right after installing the new mounts?
Posted on Dec 04, 2009
GET A 3 SPOKE PULLEY EXTRACTOR AND SCREW IN THE BOLT BUT IN THE CRANKSHAFT HOLE PUT A MUCH SMALLER SCEW SO YOU WOUNT MESS THE INSIDE UP
Posted on May 26, 2010
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Check the fuses and switches. Your owner's manual and fuse-box cover have fuse and switch diagrams. Look for the power window relay and power window motor labels. Tug out the fuse and check it for damage. Check the switches for deterioration or abnormalities. You can get a new fuse or switch at an auto parts store or super center and easily replace it.
Get out your tool box if you've eliminated fuses and switches as the cause of the problem. Now you have to remove the door panel to get a better look at your window's power source. For the driver's side and passenger-side doors, remove the door pad and inner moisture barrier. Use an upholstery-removal tool to help pry the panel off. The rear windows require that you remove the two center channel screws at the top of the door frame and two lower bolts in the bottom of the door. Check under the weather stripping if those bolts aren't evident.
Lower the window until the glass bolts are visible. Use the 10mm socket wrench to remove the bolts in the large and smaller access holes. Standing at an angle inside the door, tip the glass gently toward the outside of the door. Pull it out and set it in a secure place.
Access the regulator by removing the front channel and regulator mounting bolts. Older models have additional roller bolts.
Use a digital voltage meter to test regulator power before completely removing it. A reading of less than 12 means you have a wiring or switch problem. Recheck the fuses and switches. A reading of 12 means your wiring and switches are getting power to the motor, so the motor is inoperative for another reason.
Remove the motor and regulator. Wear protective gloves and keep your hands clear of the regulator gear spring. You can expect it to snap abruptly on removal.
Use oil to grease the roller guides and sliding surfaces of the regulator after removing all the parts. Confirm that the breather pipe is in position to keep water out of your new motor.
Advance the new regulator gear with your gloved hand. Use the collar and mounting bolt to secure the new motor in place. Replace the front door run channel.
Slide the window glass back into the door. Advance the regulator with the power window control in the door until the glass mounting bolt holes line up with the access holes. Replace the window mounting bolts.
Test for smooth operation of the window. The window should move up and down easily and form a tight seal when closed. Tighten or loosen window mounting bolts as needed.
Replace the liner and door panel. Dispose of the dead motor.
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