Question about BMW M Series

3 Answers

The clutch in my 2001 M Roadster doesn't disengage fully once the engine is fully heated up on hot days. My mechanic has replaced the master and slave cylinders, bled the line...but the proble persists..He even removed the transmission and changed the throwout beating and fork...Any ideas? The car only has 50,000 miles, and the clutch and pressure plate were replaced last year...

Posted by on

  • berwin69 Aug 07, 2010

    The clutch in my 2001 BMW M Roadster doesn't disengage fully once the engine is heated up on hot days. However, it works just fine when the engine is cold.

    My mechanic replaced the master and slave cylinders, bled the line...but the proble persisted..He even removed the transmission and changed the throwout beating and fork...Any ideas? The car only has 50,000 miles, and the clutch and pressure plate were replaced last year...

  • berwin69 Aug 08, 2010

    The clutch in my 2001 BMW M Roadster doesn't disengage fully once the engine is fully heated up on hot days. My mechanic has replaced the master and slave cylinders, bled the line...but the problem persists..He even removed the transmission and changed the throwout beating and fork...Any ideas? The car only has 50,000 miles, and the clutch and pressure plate were replaced last year...

×

Ad

3 Answers

  • Level 3:

    An expert who has achieved level 3 by getting 1000 points

    Superstar:

    An expert that got 20 achievements.

    All-Star:

    An expert that got 10 achievements.

    MVP:

    An expert that got 5 achievements.

  • BMW Master
  • 14,036 Answers

COULD BE INCORRECT PEDAL TRAVEL OR NEEDS LINKAGE ADJUSTMENT.

Posted on Aug 08, 2010

Ad
  • Level 3:

    An expert who has achieved level 3 by getting 1000 points

    Superstar:

    An expert that got 20 achievements.

    All-Star:

    An expert that got 10 achievements.

    MVP:

    An expert that got 5 achievements.

  • BMW Master
  • 17,970 Answers

Are you using a clutch stop? Try removing it. Any chance the disk went on backwards (at least on my aftermarket clutch and flywheel combination, the snout went towards the engine)?

The slave effects only the feel, from what I understand. I don't think the piston is longer or shorter to allow a different engagement point, but I am not sure about that. I use a different slave, as specified and supplied by the clutch seller (AA in my case) to make the feel closer to original.

The master is self bleeding, and you have to just pump it for like 30 mintes if it's empty... did you try just pumping it over and over? If you emptied the reservoir, you definitely got air in it. It's also very possible that your master is leaking internally... this could be your whisling sound as well. Try another master if you're sure you've bled it and it does not help.

Any write-up about this...
Finally had a chance to really work on the car tonight. Extended the slave pin until the fork was hitting the pressure plate (barely) and still the clutch was engaged. So, defeated, I resigned to pull the trans. 2 hours later I had everything apart and was looking at the fork.

My camera is dead, but the fork has a bend towards each end (where the pin and pivot ball rest). I don't have my new fork yet, but am assuming that combined with the obvious wear in the dimple could be the cause of my issues (the fork hits the pressure plate before moving the TOB far enough to disengage. If that isn't it I'll know tomorrow night (assuming my fork comes in) and will resign to using the stock flywheel and pressure plate with the UUC clutch disc.

Also, my RB-works scavenge pump (which has no warranty) that failed will be an easy fix. The wire coming off one of the brushes broke off, some solder and a few tricks I've learned from friends who race RC's and the pump should be back up and running (for use around the shop most likely...can pump fluid into things with it).

New fork with a couple washers behind the pivot pin still no luck....Pressure plate is the problem.

I can read on the clutch "gearbox side" which, unless I am mistaken means I installed it correctly...don't know what else it could be but I guess I'll be calling UUC and southbend tomorrow.
Source: bimmerforums

Tell us news.

Posted on Aug 07, 2010

Ad
  • Level 3:

    An expert who has achieved level 3 by getting 1000 points

    Superstar:

    An expert that got 20 achievements.

    All-Star:

    An expert that got 10 achievements.

    MVP:

    An expert that got 5 achievements.

  • Master
  • 2,272 Answers

If you find that your clutch has failed, here is an at-home diagnostic test that anyone can perform:

  1. Start your car, set the parking break, and put the car in neutral.
  2. With your car idling, listen for a growling noise without pushing the clutch in. If you hear something, it's most likely a problem with the transmission. If you don't hear a noise, proceed to step three.
  3. With the car still in neutral, begin to push the clutch and listen for noise. If you hear a chirping noise as you press, it's most likely the clutch release, or throw-out bearing. If you don't hear a noise, proceed to step four.
  4. Push the clutch all the way to the floor. If you hear a squealing noise, it's probably the pilot bearing or bushing.
If you don't hear any noise during these four steps, then your problem is probably not the clutch. If you hear the noise at idle and it goes away when the clutch is pressed, it may be an issue in the contact point between the fork and pivot ball.
Click this link directly to know how exactly the clutch functions.
http://www.howstuffworks.com/clutch.htm/printable

Thanks. Keep updated for any more query. You can rate thissolution and show your appreciation.

Posted on Aug 07, 2010

1 Suggested Answer

6ya6ya
  • 2 Answers

SOURCE: I have freestanding Series 8 dishwasher. Lately during the filling cycle water hammer is occurring. How can this be resolved

Hi,
a 6ya expert can help you resolve that issue over the phone in a minute or two.
best thing about this new service is that you are never placed on hold and get to talk to real repairmen in the US.
the service is completely free and covers almost anything you can think of (from cars to computers, handyman, and even drones).
click here to download the app (for users in the US for now) and get all the help you need.
goodluck!

Posted on Jan 02, 2017

Add Your Answer

Uploading: 0%

my-video-file.mp4

Complete. Click "Add" to insert your video. Add

×

Loading...
Loading...

Related Questions:

1 Answer

Replacing clutch on toyota rav4


first off make sure that it is a clutch problem
there are too often reports that the diy or mechanic has replaced the clutch when the problem was a broken/ jamming clutch cable or faulty clutch master cylinder
the same symptoms of a slipping clutch, not disengaging to select gears , shuddering etc are indicative of clutch control problems ___ cable or hydraulic failures or broken engine mounts
a lot cheaper to check the outside bits first

Apr 15, 2017 | Toyota Cars & Trucks

2 Answers

New clutch not disengaging


When I do clutch jobs. I replace the clutch package(comes with the slave) and the master cylinder also. Have the flywheel turned or replaced. Just a note. The clutch plate can be installed backwards. No matter how many times you bleed it, It won't work.

May 30, 2016 | 2001 Dodge Ram 3500 Truck

2 Answers

Clutch pedal fully extended (up) and won't disengage clutch. Happened relatively suddenly.


This may be two possible issues. If your transmission grinded in the past your transmission may have finally given up the ghost. Also your clutch disk may be broken or worn to the point where you can no longer shift. It seems like the latter your going to have to replace your clutch if your a big on doing it yourself a clutch kit is 400$ at autozone. It may be cheaper online good luck I hope this helps

Sep 03, 2014 | 2004 Saturn ION

1 Answer

Clutch problem


Pedal sinking to the floor is typically a failed master cylinder, failed slave cylinder and maybe both. A failing clutch has different symptoms (hard to shift, engine slips while in gear).

So good news because replacing both cylinder is cheaper than replacing the clutch. If you are mechanically inclined you can replace these yourself - I'd give it a medium on difficulty but you will be dealing with hydraulic fluid which can make a mess (and it will ruin your paint any place it touches).

On youtube there are dozens of videos on how to replace your master clutch cylinder and slave clutch cylinder (there is also a break master cylinder which is similar but not the same), So watch a few of them and see if you're up for it.

May 03, 2014 | 1996 BMW Z3 Roadster

1 Answer

2001 CRD Grand Voyager - clutch won't disengage.


Is there any fluid on the ground near the transmission? It's possible the clutch actuating cylinder has failed. If it was air in the line you would have noticed it the day you got it back. The master cylinder is on the firewall next to the brake master. You can add fluid if it's low. If it's empty then there may be a loose fitting or the bleeder screw on the actuating cylinder may be loose too.

Aug 09, 2017 | Chrysler Voyager Cars & Trucks

1 Answer

1994 ford escourt clutch will not disengage fully, tried bleeding the hydralic clutch but still not disengaging fully. Any sugestions


could be slave cylinder or clutch master cylinder. might also be the throw out bearing binding up on the shaft not allowing full movement.

May 31, 2012 | 1994 Ford Escort

2 Answers

My 95 ford probe has a hard time going into gear i push the clutch in and try to put it into first i sometimes can but mustly i really gotta force it to go into first and the rest of the gears as well


Sounds like there is likely a master cylinder or slave cylinder leak. These are the two that push the hydraulic fluid to the clutch mechanism and sequentially the slave cylinder after getting the pressure of the forced fluid to it from the master, it forces the rod out of it the move the clutch mechanism so that the clutch engages and disengages the engine/trans.
also check if you have a brake line leak as the brake fluid reservoir shares its fluid with the clutch master cylinder. If enough of the fluid is being drained out of the brake reservoir so that you are pumping air into the clutch slave cylinder, but still have enough in the reservoir to have the brakes working, then you should check that as well. I however think its likely either the clutch master or slave.

Apr 20, 2012 | 1995 Ford Probe

1 Answer

First gear selection problem.Sometimes goes in easy but sometimes not at all until I pump the clutch a couple of times.Mechanic says its not hydrolic fault but believes it to be a syncromesh problem,What...


Not a transmission problem. Sounds like the clutch isn't disengaging which could be caused by anything from a bad slave or master cylinder to a bad pressure plate release mechanism. First make sure that the reservoir is full of fluid, if not check for leaks. Then I would try to bleed the system at the slave cylinder. If the slave cylinder piston is moving properly but the clutch doesn't disengage you have a bad pressure plate.

Jul 02, 2011 | Kia Sedona Cars & Trucks

1 Answer

I am having a gear shifting problem with my Kia Sportage (4x4 Gasoline engine, 2009 version). taking off from an incline drive it is difficult to shift from first to second gear (grinding noise). Also...


Check your clutch fluid box located by your breaks master cylinder. Your clutch works like your breaks in that when you press the clutch pedal it uses hydraulics to disengage your clutch plate. If it's low or not working properly your clutch plate won't fully disengage and could lead to more problems.

May 27, 2011 | 2000 Kia Sportage

1 Answer

I have to force the shifter into gear (all) or I can not get it to shift at all. the clutch level fluid is at max. the clutch does feel soft. Once in gear I can shift thru the gear, but hard. Some...


If you can put it into gear easily without the engine running but it grinds or is hard to put into gear when the engine is running then the clutch has not fully disengaged. If the clutch does not slip once you are moving then the clutch is not likely the problem. Instead you will have a faulty clutch slave cylinder and/or clutch master cylinder. The best thing to do is have both replaced and be sure that they are properly bled of all air. If the clutch does slip then it will of course need to be replaced, and be sure to have the pressure plate re-surfaced! Then there is the possibility, albeit rare, that all three need replacement.

Jan 30, 2011 | Ford Ranger Cars & Trucks

Not finding what you are looking for?
Cars & Trucks Logo

Related Topics:

62 people viewed this question

Ask a Question

Usually answered in minutes!

Top BMW Experts

Frankie B

Level 2 Expert

65 Answers

Fred Sops

Level 2 Expert

272 Answers

Doberman

Level 2 Expert

254 Answers

Are you a BMW Expert? Answer questions, earn points and help others

Answer questions

Manuals & User Guides

Loading...