Question about 2005 Buick LaCrosse

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Looking for the torque for the front CV joint nut

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The torque for this nut is 118 ft. lbs or 160 Nm metric setting.

Posted on Aug 06, 2010


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I have honda city 1994 model, pls advice me on how to change front wheel axle/cv joint/boot thanks madaan

  • Loosen the lug nuts (turning counter-clockwise) to finger tight on the front wheel with the damaged CV joint. Buy, borrow or rent a CV nut socket. Some auto parts stores will sell you one for about $30 and refund your money when you return it. Because the CV nut in the center of the wheel hub is locked in place with a safety tab, it is loosened initially with a long breaker bar or a hollow pipe placed over the ratchet handle to increase the torque needed to break the nut free. Loosen to finger tightness.
  • 2 Set safety brakes and jack up the front of the car toward the side of the damaged CV joint using at least a 2 1/2-ton jack. Both the car and the jack should be on a hard, level surface and the lifting point must be a load-bearing member on the chassis or engine cradle. Place two jack stands under the front end and slowly lower the car onto the jack stands so the car chassis is fully resting on the stands. Now, pull out the jack and move it out of the way.
  • 3 Remove the wheel lug nuts and pull off the wheel from the hub. If it doesn't cooperate, kick the bottom of the tire sidewall with the back of your heel or the flat of your hand to dislodge it. Unscrew the center CV nut. To dislodge the male spline outboard end of the CV joint that fits into the female spline in the back of the wheel hub, take the CV nut and screw it back on three or four turns, then strike it with a hammer to partially disengage the splines.
  • 4 Remove the ball joint stud on the lower control arm from its socket in the spindle behind the wheel hub, after you remove a locking bolt, cotter pin or other device that holds the ball joint stud that protrudes from the lower control arm. Then, wedge a pry bar (called a pickle fork) between the tie rod and sway bar. To gain greater leverage, insert the pry bar handle into a length of pipe and apply downward pressure to remove the ball joint stud from the spindle.
  • 5 Remove the CV joint and shaft. With the lower ball joint disconnected from the wheel spindle, the hub can be moved to the side just enough to remove the outer CV joint from the spindle socket in the back of the wheel hub. Do not stretch the brake line that is attached to the wheel brake cylinder as you move the hub aside. With the outboard end of the shaft free of the wheel, pull the shaft straight out from the transmission housing. Because of the labor involved with repairing or replacing CV joints, it's more cost effective to simply replace the entire shaft assembly including the two CV joints and boots.
  • 6 Install the new shaft and CV joint assembly. Clean the transmission seal that came off the old unit; pack it with grease and place it over the inboard spline of the new unit before inserting new shaft into transmission. Make sure splines are lined up before tapping the other end of the shaft with a hammer to seat it in its socket. Carefully insert the other end of the shaft back into the wheel hub and loosely thread on the new CV bolt that came with the assembly.
  • 7 Reinstall the ball joint stud into the spindle by re-inserting the pry bar between the tie rod and the sway bar and leveraging down the lower control arm with the ball joint stud positioned just under the spindle hole. Then release pressure on the pry bar so the ball joint stud re-seats into the spindle. Push the wheel hub all the way onto the shaft spline to seat and torque down the CV nut tight. With a flat head screwdriver tap the lip of the new CV nut into the groove cut into the screw end. Now, re-attach the ball joint locking bolt, put the tire back, replace lug nuts and tighten. Remove the car from the jack stands and finish tightening the tire lug nuts.

  • Dec 25, 2010 | 1994 Honda Prelude

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    I have a 99 mazda protege, 1.6l engine, automatic transmission. I am changing the CV joints out and I need the torque specification for the axle spindle nut that connects the cv joint to the wheel hub.

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    1993 geo tracker , the front cv joint axles need new boot and bearing. Is it easy for a back yard mechanic?


    Aug 28, 2010 | 1993 Geo Tracker

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    I replaced both front end bearings and now it makes a cliking sound on the driver side. It only makes that sound when the wheel is turned completely to the left or right.

    The clicking is most likely one of your front axle CV joints. Did you use a torque wrench when you reinstalled the axle nuts? If not, you should loosen both sides and torque to the proper tightness. Hopefully that will fix your problem. If not, then you could have a CV joint that has wear, and is causing the click.

    Apr 19, 2010 | 2003 Dodge Durango

    1 Answer

    Do I have to remove the control arm to replace the half shaft on a 2005 Ford Freestar?

    no, here's the procedure for 2002 windstar, should be similar. please rate, thanks.

    NOTE: This procedure applies to both the LH and RH halfshaft assemblies.
    1. Raise and support the vehicle. For additional information, refer to Section 100-02 .
    1. Remove the front wheel and tire assembly. For additional information, refer to Section 204-04 .
    1. Insert a steel rod in the brake disc to prevent the halfshaft from turning while removing the front axle wheel end nut.
    1. s2w~us~en~file=ani_caut.gif~gen~ref.gif CAUTION: The front axle wheel end nut is a torque prevailing design nut. Do not reuse it.
      Remove the nut and washer.
      • Remove the steel rod in the brake disc.
    1. s2w~us~en~file=ani_caut.gif~gen~ref.gif WARNING: Remove or tape the brake pads to prevent them from falling out of the anchor plate.
      s2w~us~en~file=ani_caut.gif~gen~ref.gif CAUTION: To prevent damage to the brake hose, do not allow the disc brake caliper to hang suspended from the hose.
      Remove the bolts and position the disc brake caliper aside.
    1. Remove the front brake anti-lock sensor harness from the clip.
    1. Remove and discard the nut and bolt.
      • If necessary, use a punch and a hammer to drive the bolt out of the knuckle.
    1. s2w~us~en~file=ani_caut.gif~gen~ref.gif CAUTION: Position the end of the pry bar outside the bushing pocket to avoid damage to the bushing.
      s2w~us~en~file=ani_caut.gif~gen~ref.gif CAUTION: Do not damage the front wheel driveshaft joint boot (3A331).
      Separate the front suspension lower arm from the knuckle.
    1. s2w~us~en~file=ani_caut.gif~gen~ref.gif CAUTION: Never use a hammer to separate the front wheel driveshaft joint (3B413) from the wheel hub. Damage to the joint threads and internal components can result.
      Using the special tool, press on the front wheel driveshaft joint until it is loose in the wheel hub.
    1. Rotate the front wheel knuckle rearward, while pulling it outward at the bottom and remove the front wheel driveshaft joint from the wheel hub.
    1. Using a pry bar, separate the inboard CV joint housing assembly (3B436) (3B437) from the transaxle.
    1. s2w~us~en~file=ani_caut.gif~gen~ref.gif CAUTION: Do not damage the differential seal.
      Remove the halfshaft assembly with both hands.
    1. Lubricate the differential seal.
      • Use MERCON® V Automatic Transmission Fluid XT-5-QM or equivalent meeting MERCON® V specifications.
    1. s2w~us~en~file=ani_caut.gif~gen~ref.gif CAUTION: Install a new circlip every time you remove the halfshaft from the vehicle.
      On the RH side halfshaft only, install a new circlip in the groove in the inboard CV joint stub shaft.
      • Start one end in the groove and work the circlip over the shaft and into the groove. This will prevent the circlip from over-expanding.
    1. s2w~us~en~file=ani_caut.gif~gen~ref.gif CAUTION: Do not damage the inboard CV joint housing assembly and the differential seal.
      NOTE: If necessary, use a non-metallic mallet to aid in seating the circlip in the differential side gear groove (RH) or inboard CV joint housing (LH). Tap only on the outboard front wheel driveshaft joint.
      Align the inboard CV joint housing splines with the differential side gear splines (RH) or output shaft splines (LH), and push the inboard CV joint housing assembly inward until the circlip seats in the differential side gear (RH) or inboard CV joint housing (LH).
    1. Align the front wheel driveshaft joint splines and the wheel hub splines, and push the joint into the wheel hub as far as possible.
    1. Install the washer and the old nut. Using the old nut, seat the front wheel driveshaft joint in the hub. Remove the old nut and discard it.
    1. Connect the suspension lower arm to the knuckle.
    1. s2w~us~en~file=ani_caut.gif~gen~ref.gif CAUTION: Install a new bolt and nut.
      Install the new bolt and nut.
    1. Insert a steel rod in the brake disc to prevent the halfshaft from turning while installing the new front axle wheel end nut.
    1. Apply a small patch of Loctite 242 or equivalent meeting Ford specification WSK-M2G351-A5 to the last five front wheel driveshaft joint threads.
    1. s2w~us~en~file=ani_caut.gif~gen~ref.gif CAUTION: Install and tighten the new front axle wheel end nut to specification in a continuous rotation. Stopping the rotation during installation will cause the nylon lock to set incorrectly. This will cause incorrect torque readings while tightening the nut, and lead to bearing failure. Always install a new front axle wheel end nut after loosening the nut, or when the nut has not been installed to specification in a continuous rotation.
      Install and tighten the new nut to specification in a continuous rotation.
      • Remove the steel rod from the brake disc.
    1. Position the disc brake caliper and install the bolts.
    1. Install the front brake anti-lock sensor harness in the clip.
    1. Install the wheel and tire assembly. For additional information, refer to Section 204-04 .
    1. Lower the vehicle.
    1. Check and, if necessary, fill the transaxle to the correct level with the specified fluid. For additional information, refer to Section 307-01 .

    Nov 15, 2009 | 2005 Ford Freestar

    1 Answer

    Replace lower ball joints on a 2000 chevy blazer 4

    Raise vehicle up on jack stands so that the stands are under the lower controll arms and the suspension is "loaded" Remove the front tire(s) (if you break the torque on the nuts while the wheel is still on the ground it helps, but do not loosen them completely as you will be looking for new rims and wheel studs too). Place a drift or some other suitable object in one of the brake rotor vanes so that it will hit the brake caliper and stop the rotor from moving and remove the CV shaft nut (it's a big ****** make sure you have the right socket on hand before getting to this point). Next remove the brake caliper and rotor then undo the wheel bearing retaining bolts and remove the wheel bearing. This should give you enough room to move the axle shaft back and up so you can work on the ball joint. If you've had ball joints replaced before just unbolt the ones that are installed and using a pickle fork, or a block of wood and a hammer, drive the ball joint stud from the knuckle. (make sure to support the upper control arm so it doesn't drop down on you when you do this) If you are working on original ball joints then I reccomend placing a block of wood or something else that will protect the cv boots from drill bits ect and drill out the rivets holding the ball joint in place. then remove in the same manner indicated in the previous paragraph. installation is pretty much the reverse of removal and don't forget to torque your cv shaft nut I have a 1999 and the manual specs 103FTlbs... This is a critical torque as it helps preload your wheel bearing. Too high and you'll burn them up, too low and they'll be loose and wear out.

    Oct 08, 2009 | Chevrolet Blazer Cars & Trucks

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