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No ac went to a rolled vw same year 2000.... changed the high preasure sw. replaced the fan sw. sys full of 134a jumped clutch unit and it work well and does get cold ..i dont see a low preasure sw.any ideas oh, it also has a new fan module and they both work now
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On your gauge,is "red" high pressure or low pressure?
If you are seeing a high pressure on your low side connected gauge and the compressor is not running,that is a "full charge" or better stabilized in the system.If your compressor is not "kicking in" you may have a defective electrical component in the A/C system.With the engine running,you can jump 12v power the the compressor clutch momentarily just to see if it is working.Don't leave it jumped to long as the system is designed to cycle with pressure from the low side pressure switch which is the next place to check and the compressor can also be jumped at the low side switch.
If your "red" is low or no pressure,then you have a leak and repairs to the system to stop the leak will have to be made.You can add 134a at this time with the engine running and A/C requested,and as pressure rises in the A/C system,the compressor should "kick in" and cold air should start flowing in your dash vents.45 degrees at the dash vent airflow temp usually equals a full charge.
DO NOT add any aftermarket "134a" that shows an EXPLOSIVE label on it.These are not 134a and are usually butane and/or propane mixes that you MAY NOT want spraying on you in a collision/any situation where the A/C system has become ruptured/compromised.
Could have a bad low pressure cutout switch, if you can jump across it , I would replace it. Also if you have access to a scanner , you might want to make sure you are getting "compressor on" command from computer
It depends what temperature is outside and whats been done to ac syst! Preasures should be if 134a low at 32psi to 45 and hi side from 175 to 250psi the hotter weather higher preasures the colder the lower preasures! if around 70 deg out low side 32 n hi 174psi ! you may have a expansion valve clogged or orifice tube clogged! Get more inf
The pressure sw. on the dryer maybe weak but the way you explain it I think the sys is low on Freon. The reason for this is you said it did not get that cold. I would add a half can or one to the sys and see if the compressor cycles longer. Hope this helps.
no it requires full 12 volts to work the clutch the coolant fans have no connection to the ac system so they will not run until the engine temp requires them to
there is a fan normally in front of the condenser coil that will start as soon as the ac compressor gets power
the ac will not work until there is sufficient charge in the system to activate the low pressure switch
have to ask are you using the right gas as 134A requires all new system( evaporator , condenser , compressor , hoses) as the pressures are very much higher than r12 gas
the fan control unit at front r/h chassis from down or flow fan motor cable it;s conect with control A/C pressure S.W look to two freon hoses gose to body if you folow you find the presure s.w conect with socet 3 wire can be replace without lose freon .
If you have cooling fans, then it could be your compressor itself. If you hit the A/C button, and there's no cooling fans, try a new "Cooling Fan Control Module" it's a common problem on early 2000 VW's.
You were close! Most Fords have a CCRM (Continuous Control Relay Module) thats on the passenger side fenderwell. It has 4 relays: one for the AC compressor cluth, one for the fuel pump, and two for the electric fan (high- and low-speed.) The AC is the one that fails the most. You can replace the CCRM by removing the intake air filter box and working through the fenderwell openings. If it gets to difficult you must remove the wheel and splash cover to replace it from the wheel opening.
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