Question about Kia Rio

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2003 KIA RIO. 110,000 MILES. Stalled at traffic light and will not restart. Belt on lower left side (looking at engine from front) is in tact. No warning signs. Could it be fuel pump? Ignition coil? Something burned out in airbag recently and air bag light was on at time of stall. Could it be a short?

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  • kerry0152 Aug 05, 2010

    fuel pump working. sprayed quick start. nothing. seems like no spark. fuses ok. both belts in place. save me! lol

  • kerry0152 Aug 06, 2010

    I don't think it is the O2 sensor because there was no change in gas mileage prior and the car just died at a light. Never stalled once prior.

    I really need to fix myself because I can't even afford a tow much less a mechanic's bill. Please help.

    Feels like no spark. Engine turns fine. No reaction with quick start sprayed into the injectors.

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3 Answers

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  • Master
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It may be as simple as your fuel filter. Try replacing it. If this solution doesn't work, check the fuel pump output pressure to see if you need to replace it. It might be the coil pack, it could be a broken wire or key switch short. Make sure the battery is fully charged, the alternator may not be charging the battery also, thus the stall. Change the fuel filter first, it's the most likely. Hope this helps. Good luck!

Posted on Aug 06, 2010

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  • Master
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It is possible that the fuel pump has failed, turn the car to the on position and crawl under the car to see if you can hear it running. should be a low humming noise. if you dont hear it, have someone turn the jey all the way to the start position so the engine turns over and have someone use a hammer to tap on the bottom of the fuel tank. Sometimes this will cause the fuel pump to engage. Also, could you tell me if you have had your timing belt serviced. If not, you are well passed due. If the timing belt breaks, the car will completely stall and will not start back up.

Posted on Aug 05, 2010

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  • Kia Master
  • 17,970 Answers

Sounds like an ECU problem or O2 sensor problem. I suggest scanning your vehicle to knowed any OBD fault code. Also, can start checking any vacuum leak and pressure in the fuel system.

Here can learn about how to test O2 sensors...



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Posted on Aug 05, 2010

  • ZJ Limited
    ZJ Limited Aug 06, 2010

    If Your Engine Cranks but Does Not Start Follow this Troubleshooting Guide. Vehicles operate by the same principle; basic troubleshooting procedure applies to most cars:
    * Step 1 - Anytime you have a problem with electronically controlled components such as an engine, transmission, ABS brake, or SRS (supplemental restraint system, Air Bag) inspect all fuses using a test light and check the under hood power distribution center and under dash fuse panels. If all fuses test ok continue to the next step.

    * Step 2 - To check for problems with electronically controlled components such as an engine, transmission, ABS brake, or SRS (supplemental restraint system, Air Bag) and the fuses test ok a trouble code scan is needed to identify any system trouble. Use a simple scanner tool to retrieve trouble codes and see if they relate to the specific problem, like a crank angle sensor failure code. If the trouble code present does not pertain to the immediate problem like an EVAP code ignore it until a later time, after the car is running. The reason we repair non-related codes after the engine is running is because sometime false codes can be triggered by the engine not running. Once the engine is running again the code present might cycle and turn itself off. You might say "if the engine doesn't run shouldn't it have a trouble code?" Sometimes conditions occur that will not be detected by the computer, example: if the fuel pump fails the computer cannot detect the failure, so the engine doesn't start and the computer thinks everything is ok with no codes. If no trouble codes are present proceed to the next step.

    * Step 3 - The spark plugs in your engine are used to ignite the compressed fuel air mixture. If the condition of the spark plugs are fouled by excessive fuel or carbon the engine will not start, backfire or run rough. Remove all spark plugs to inspect their condition. Please use this spark plug condition reference guide to see how the spark plugs are operating.

    * Step 4 - Determine if the engine has compression, this can be done a number of ways but the most complete method is to perform a compression check. Remove the spark plugs and perform a compression test on one cylinder. If one cylinder has compression then the remaining cylinders usually will be close to the same. Crank the engine over about 5 seconds, normal compression readings should be between 125 psi and 160 psi on each cylinder. If no or little compression exists additional tests will be needed. The most common reason for an engine to lose compression is a timing belt or timing chain failure. If low or no compression exists remove the oil fill cap and observe camshaft rotation when the engine is cranked over. If no rotation exists the timing belt or chain has failed. If your engine has a timing belt and you cannot see the camshaft easily remove the upper bolts to the timing cover and gain visual access to the belt, recheck cam rotation by cranking the engine over. Sometimes a timing belt or chain can jump causing the camshaft to lose correlation with the crankshaft and therefore causing low compression. The best test for this condition is to remove the timing belt/chain cover and inspect timing marks. If the compression is ok proceed to next step.

    * Step 5 - Test the ignition system output, ignition systems can vary in configuration but operate on the same principal. Ignition systems can consist of a coil, pick up coil, crank angle sensor, cam angle sensor, spark plugs, spark plug wires, distributor cap, ignition rotor and a distributor and any variations of these components. An ignition coil is a voltage stepper coil that transforms a low voltage (12 volts) signal into tens of thousands of volts needed to jump the gap of the spark plug. This coil is activated by an ignition module triggered by using the camshaft/crankshaft angle sensor; timing is adjusted by the ECM (computer).

    Send us your tests.

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Regarding the shut down, when was the last time you changed the timing belt?? Did you know that the twin cam 1.5 lirte motor needs a new belt every 50,000 miles or 80,000 kms.
If the belt has failed it may still be in tact but with the cogs ripped off.
Your valves have collided with at least one piston but it is good you were only idling at the time.
The motor may be worth fixing. I just fixed mine myself. I had to lift the engine after removing the axles. I removed the old timing belt and removed and rebuilt the cylinder head(big job). Two exhaust valves were boken right off and lying inside one cylinder.
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1 Answer

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HI
it was locate left side of car near the engine & transmission joining point up of thy flywheel it have a wire and connectors join with the harnesses of car

ask for more information

with my best wishes

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