Question about 2002 Nissan Xterra
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
Hi El Faraon,
I believe that you're dealing with 12 mm bolts and nuts....THESE ARE NOT THE SPECS FOR YOUR ENGINE, but I believe that if you use them you'll be close....Tighten in three stages up to 22nm....choose the bolts from the centre of the manifold and circle outwards until you reach the last one.....It may be a good idea to draw an overhead or plan view of the unit, marking out the bolt positions.....Start at the centre and mark the sequence and follow that....What is important is starting at the centre, so that nothing becomes warped....
Hope this helps,
Posted on Sep 06, 2008
frajogag: First off, be aware that these bolts are "torque to yield" bolts (streach bolts). What this means is that instead of torqueing the head bolts to a specific torque specification, they are torqued down to a set spec and then tightened by rotating the bolts a certain angle, like 90 degrees. and all of them are turned the same amount.
This means that the shanks of the bolts must be checked to make sure they are not too thin (or the bolt has already stretched beyond limits and is prone to snap if used)
Here is how you check the bolts. Measure the bolt using a micrometer, at the base, or within the first 13mm from the end where it threads in. Then go to about 10mm before the threads end heading toward the top of the bolt. There should not be more than a 0.23mm (.0091 inch) or less difference or the bolt should be discarded.
Torque the bolts down to 98.1Nm ( 72.ft lb)
Looking at the head from the side, so you are looking at the full length from side to side, I will number the head bolts in this fashion.
#1 & 2 are directly in front of you and in the center of the cylinder head crossing it width wise.
#3&4 are to the left of #1&2, / #5&6 are to the right of #1&2
#7&8 are to the left of #3&4 / #9$10 are to the right of #5&6
Now, you have the sequence.
After the initial pull, back off all the bolts in the same sequence and then retorque them to 36 Nm ( 28 ft lb)
Using a torque angle wrench or having the ability to accurately judge turning angles. Rotate (clockwise) to a 75 degree angle. do this to all the bolts using the sequence I had provided.
Rotate the bolts (clockwise) 75 degrees again on all bolts in the same sequence. The proceedure is complete!
Posted on Apr 23, 2009
1.Flywheel - 61 to 69 Foot Pounds
2.Pressure Plate - 25 to 33 Foot Pounds
3.Bell Housing - No specs found. I would say 25 to 35 foot pounds should be sufficient.
Bolts clean on ->flywheel to crank, ->pressure plate to flywheel, and ->bell housing to back of engine, I would use TWO drops of Loctite Red threadlocker, on ALL of these bolts.
Hope you have an alignment tool for your clutch disk when you install it. Auto parts stores sell the plastic one's cheap! Saves a LOT of headaches!
Tighten the pressure plate EVENLY! Snug the bolts down until they just TOUCH, then go in a criss-cross pattern when tightening. Do the tightening in incremental stages! You turn one bolt one thread, you go across to the opposite side, and turn that bolt one thread. Keep criss-crossing so the pressure plate goes down EVENLY. (YES, it's a pain in the keister!)
If NOT, you'll have a warped pressure plate, and it will be junk!
Thanks for letting me say that, I feel better.
Posted on Jul 07, 2009
After you remove the 2 bolts there is 2 cone shaped tensioners that help hold the taillight housing on. Grab the taillight firmly on the top and bottom, and pull it straight towards you until the tensioners pop. They will not be damaged and are made to pop in and out.
Then find the bulb housing of the burnt bulb, turn the housing clockwise, and remove the bulb housing, remove the bulb by pulling on the black base of the bulb only on the short sides on the housing. (DO NOT pull on the glass, as it may break in your hand). Then slide the replacement bulb into the housing (it can go in either direction), and repeat the steps in reverse order. to put the housing and taillight back on.
Be careful to tighten the taillight bolts by hand only, they have a plastic thread sleeve that is easily stripped by a drill.
Posted on Dec 03, 2009
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