Question about 1992 Toyota Paseo

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I'm working on a 93 toyota paseo. Where the front lower control arm bolts to the body, the front bolt(which goes through the bushing and threads into the body)spins either way and doesnt tighten or come out(by hand,or impact gun). The car recently went into a ditch on the same side. Im afraid the weld broke which was holding the threads for the bolt. Then i realized the car doesnt have a crossmember in the front and was all part of the unibody. Now i have a big problem and not sure what to do next. Any help would be greatly appreciated. Thank you, Aaron

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  • Toyota Master
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1992 or 1993 Paseo? Sounds like you have a serious front end problem. I would take it to a body shop in order to evaluate the cost for fixing htis problem before proceeding. Maybe they can weld it back and retap if necessary.

Posted on Aug 05, 2010

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1 Answer

How do you replace the lower ball joints on a 2000 windstar?


According to Autozone.com, you must replace the whole control arm. Here is their procedure:
NOTE do not begin the removal procedure unless a new strut-to-lower arm nut, a new ball joint pinch bolt/nut and a new lower arm-to-front subframe bolt/nut are available.

  1. Remove or disconnect the following:
    NOTE
    Do not use a hammer to separate the ball joint from the front wheel hub and spindle.



    WheelsLower arm strut nut and dished washer. Discard them.
  2. Place the steering wheel in the unlocked position.
    NOTE
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  3. Remove or disconnect the following:
    NOTE
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    Remove and discard the lower arm-to-front subframe bolt and nutRemove the lower arm from the vehicleTo install:
    1. Install or connect the following:

      Lower arm strut into the lower arm rear strut bushingLower arm into the front sub-frame bracketNew lower arm-to-front subframe nut and bolt. While holding the lower arm horizontal, tighten to 85-97 ft. lbs. (115-132 Nm).Ball joint stud-to-wheel hub and spindle, making sure that the ball stud groove is properly positioned.New lower arm ball joint pinch bolt and nut. Tighten to 46-52 ft. lbs. 62-71 Nm).
    2. Clean the lower arm strut threads to remove dirt and contamination.
    3. Install the dished washer with the dished side away from the lower arm rear strut bushing.
    4. Install the front suspension lower arm strut-to-strut nut and tighten to 85-97 ft. lbs. (115-142 Nm).
    5. Install the wheels.
    6. Lower the vehicle.

Jun 12, 2015 | Cars & Trucks

1 Answer

How to repair vw


Lift Vehicle and place on axle stands. Remove wheels. Disconnect the lower control arm from the bolts that hold the ball joint, or from the knuckle. Undo the rear two bolts that hold the ''D'' shaped rear bush and the bolt that holds the forward bush. Have it pressed out and replace with new one. Reverse the procedure for installation. While the arm is out check the condition of the ball joints and replace if needed. After assembly have the front wheel alignment checked.

Jul 04, 2014 | 1995 Volkswagen Polo 1.6

1 Answer

Front shocks


If it's got the coil over shock you take the 3 nuts off the top and the pivot bolt on the control arm, you may also need to pop the upper ball joint loose to get the lower control arm down far enough get the assembly out to compress the spring to change the shock.The center nut on the top of shock has pressure on it from the spring so do not remove that one til spring is compressed. If it does not have a coil over then it may be just the center nut on top if it goes through a bushing then the bottom bolt,just to be safe have the lower control arm sitting on a jack stand as that coil spring may have some pressure on the arms and use a floor jack on the body or cross member to relieve if you need to. I believe the shock will either come through the center of control arm on your 2wd or if it doesn't go through the center should come off then.

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1 Answer

I want to replace lower control arm 2006 ford escape


I replaced both lower control arms on my 03' Escape last night, it took about 1.5 hours/side. A second set of hands is helpful. The only difficulty was the pass. side ball joint bolt and nut were seized and stripped while attempting to remove. I had to air chisel the nut off but would have used hack saw if necessary.
I had bad ball joints and the control arm mounts and bushings appeared corroded and worn. On many messageboards I found debates about replacing the ball joints only or the whole control arm. I felt full arm replacement made the most sense. It is assembled with the bushings and ball joint in place. I bought Moog units from Rockauto for @ 77/pc. that allow for greasing the ball joint. I also bought new body bolts from the dealer at 20$/pc., since I was concerned about corrosion.
I have found varying processes for removing. The following worked for me.
1. Sprayed three bolt areas with PB thrust(penetrant) a few days ahead and soaked again the day before. I am in WNY and corrosion is a big problem. I dreaded breaking off one of the main bolts in the body.
2. Jack up, support vehicle properly (2 jack stands), I pulled the plastic underbody splash shields just enough to get better access. They were 10mm some broke off while removing.
3. Started removing main control arm bolts. The rear bolt came out easily on both sides using 1/2 in. breaker bar and 19mm? socket. The front horizontal bolt (15mm)made alot of noise coming out. I worked it back and forth and sprayed penetrant as I removed it. The driver side had me worried I was gonna snap it but no problems. The end threads corrode and as they remove through the body nut threads there is alot of resistance.
4. Remove ball joint nut and bolt(15mm). See above note about having to cut off nut. Once the bolt is removed, alot of online how tos mention joint pullers and other specialized tools. I just pried out the control arm from the body (to give the joint a better angle to the knuckle). I put a pry bar between the pinch joint of the knuckle and the ball joint. Then rap the control arm with a hammer while prying and the joint falls right out. A little spray penetrant helps too.
5. To reassemble:
A. Place rear mount of control arm in place and get bolt started.
B. Place Front mount in place. One side we had to pry forward in the rear mount area to get front in place, the other side went in no trouble. Start bolt here too.
C. Angle ball joint to where you think it lines up best with pinch bolt of knuckle. Get it started and we used a rubber mallet to somewhat gently persuade it into place. Once it was lined up we rapped the joint area while shaking the knuckle/strut and it pops right into place. Line up groove of ball joint with bolt hole. Start bolt and nut. My bolts were facing forward so I replaced them in the same way they came out. Torqued to 52 ft./lbs
6. Torqued front bolt to 150 ft/lbs and the rear bolt to 85 ft./lbs. There is a torque diagram I found online showing the control arm and giving these specs.
7. Install grease fitting, grease joints and tie rod end while in there.
8. Pop plastic splash shields back in place and rebolt.
9. Finish up,schedule an alignment, have a beer and feel good you saved about 400$ or more.

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1 Answer

How to replace a lower control arm and ball joint


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1 Answer

How to replace lower control arms on 1987 Toyota 1 ton pickup


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2 Answers

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ITS GOING TO BE HARD TO FIX AT HOME UNLESS YOU A PRESS AND TOOLS.YOU NEED A PRESS TO PRESS CONTROL ARM BUSHINGS IN AND OUT.

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1 Answer

Need to know how to replace lower control arm


LOWER CONTROL ARM

REMOVAL
1) Raise and support vehicle. 3) Remove the steering knuckle.
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1 Answer

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2 Answers

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Hi,
I just did this job on my 98 regal, and I own the service manuals also. The lower control arm bushing that usually goes, is the front one. The rear one doesn't usually go, it is horizontally mounted. The front one for some reason is vertical. The control arm must be removed, and put in a vise. The front bushings outer metal sleeve, must be driven out with a chisel. It comes out easily. The new bushing can be tapped in with a hammer. Hope this helps!
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