Question about Dodge Neon

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I got a Crysler neon 2001 trying to get the crankshaft pulley off, but the pulley wont remove it just damage it, no holes in it. Any suggestions????

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I ran into the same problem. I bought a specialty chrysler puller from sears online. It was about $100, but it's low profile, so you might not have to remove the radiator, and it makes the job so much easier.

I hope this helps

Posted on Aug 07, 2010

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Why crankshaft pulley come loose ?


check the bolt holes and bolts to inspect for damaged threads and repair or replace as needed. if this is good you may need to add Loctite to the threads of the bolts. use blue Loctite as this will allow removal later on if you need to remove the bolts.

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The bottom pulley for the drive belt is wobbling and making a loud sound. do i need to replace the pulley and is it the bearings in the pulley?


The bottom pulley on any engine is attached directly to the torsional vibration damper which is attached to the crankshaft. That pulley drives the serpentine belt and has no bearings. First thing you need to do is find out if the pulley bolts have become loose or if the damper on the crank is loose.
If you find the pulley loose, if the bolt holes are not elongated, just tighten it back up. If the damper is loose, remove it from the engine (puller usually necessary) and inspect the crank snout and the alignment key for wear. Any damage to the damper requires that it be replaced. If the crank snout is severely damaged, that requires that the crank itself be replaced (very expensive).

Jun 09, 2011 | 2001 Oldsmobile Alero

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1997 Neon- DOHC. My timing belt broke or came loose. I am told that this engine is an "interference" engine. Before I repair the bad water pump and replace the timing belt,,how can I be sure...


DON'T KNOW HOW MANY MILES BUT CRYSLER PRODUCT ARE KNOWN FOR BENDING THE VALVES
WHEN THE TIMING BELT BREAKS, YOU WON'T KNOW HOW BAD THE DAMAGE IS UNTILL YOU PULL THE HEADS. NEW VALVES AND CHECKING THE HEAD COULD RUN UP AROUND 800 DOLLARS WITH OUT REPLACING THE HEAD. A NEW HEAD COMPLETE 1,700 DOLLARS THESE ARE JUST ESTIMENTS NOT A GOOD SIGN, I'LL LET YOU MAKE THE CALL 2,000 REPAIR VERSES 20,00 NEW CAR

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How to remove and change crank shaft pulley on 2001 mazda 626


You have to partially unscrew the bolt in the center, that's holding the pulley to the crankshaft. Then, you have to use a puller to safely pull, without damaging, the pulley off the crankshaft. When it gets pulled away, off the crankshaft, remove the puller, unbolt the center bolt all the way and take the pulley out.

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Procedure in changing timing belt


Timing Belt and Sprockets REMOVAL & INSTALLATION 2S-ELC, 3S-FE and 5S-FE Engines
  1. Remove the timing belt covers as previously detailed.
  2. Raise the engine just enough to remove the weight from the engine mount on the right side.
  3. Remove the thru-bolt, two nuts, and right hand mounting insulator.
  4. Remove the retaining bolts and remove the right hand mounting bracket (from the side the alternator was removed from).
  5. Remove the timing belt and timing belt guide. If the timing belt is to be reused, draw a directional arrow on the timing belt in the direction of engine rotation (clockwise) and place matchmarks on the timing belt and crankshaft gear.
  6. Remove the bolt retaining the No. 1 idler pulley and tension spring.
  7. Remove the No. 2 idler pulley.
  8. Remove the crankshaft timing gear , if it can not be removed by hand, use two flat bladed tools to pry it off. Make sure to position shop rags to prevent damages to the components.
  9. Remove the nut retaining the oil pump pulley. To install:
  10. Align the cutouts of the oil pump pulley and shaft, and slide the pulley on. Retain the pulley while tightening the nut to 21 ft. lbs. (28 Nm).
  11. Align the crankshaft timing pulley set key with the key groove of the crankshaft pulley, then slide the pulley on.
  12. Install the No. 2 idler pulley with the bolt and tighten to 31 ft. lbs. (42 Nm). Be sure the pulley moves smoothly. NOTE: Remove any oil or water on the idler pulley and keep it clean.
  13. Temporarily install the No. 1 idler pulley with the retaining bolt. Hint: use a 1.65 inch (42mm) bolt in length. Do not tighten the bolt yet. Install the tension spring. Pry the pulley toward the left as far as it will go, then tighten the bolt.
  14. Turn the crankshaft until the key groove in the crankshaft timing pulley is facing upward. Install the timing belt on the crankshaft timing, oil pump, No. 2 idler and water pump pulleys. NOTE: If the old timing belt is being reinstalled, make sure the directional arrow is facing in the original direction and that the belt and crankshaft gear matchmarks are properly aligned.
  15. Install the lower (No. 1) timing belt cover and new gasket with the four bolts.
  16. Align the crankshaft pulley set key with the pulley key groove. Install the pulley. Tighten the pulley bolt to 80 ft. lbs. (108 Nm).
  17. On 2S-ELC engines, turn the crankshaft pulley and align the 0 mark on the lower (No. 1) timing belt cover.
  18. Align the camshaft knock pin with the matchmarks on the oil seal retainer.
  19. On 2S-ELC/USA engines, align the knock pin with the pin hole on the timing pulley E mark side. On 2S-ELC/Canadian engines, align the knock pin with the pin hole on the timing pulley. On 3S-FE and 5S-FE engines, align the knock pin with the groove of the pulley, and slide the pulley onto the camshaft with the plate washer and set bolt. NOTE: On 2S-ELC engines, make sure that the Matchmark on the oil seal retainer and center hole of the small hole on the camshaft timing pulley are aligned.
  20. Using the removal tool to hold the pulley stationary, install and tighten the pulley set bolt to 40 ft. lbs. (54 Nm) on the 2S-ELC and the 3S-FE. On the 5S-FE, tighten the set bolt to 27 ft. lbs. (37 Nm).
  21. On 3S-FE and 5S-FE engines, turn the crankshaft pulley and align the 0 mark on the lower (No. 1) timing belt cover.
  22. Install the timing belt and check the valve timing as follows:
    1. Align the matchmarks that you made previously, and install the timing belt onto the camshaft pulley.
    2. Loosen the No. 1 idler pulley set bolt 1⁄2 turn.
    3. Turn the crankshaft pulley two complete revolutions TDC to TDC. ALWAYS turn the crankshaft CLOCKWISE. Check that the pulleys are still in alignment with the timing marks.
    4. Tighten the No. 1 idler pulley set bolt to 31 ft. lbs. (42 Nm).
    5. Make sure there is belt tension between the crankshaft and camshaft timing pulleys.
  23. Install the upper (No. 2) timing cover with a new gasket(s). On the 5S-FE, align the two clamps for the engine wiring harness with the cover mounting bolts.
  24. Install the spark plugs.
  25. The remainder of installation is the reverse of removal. Tighten each component to specifications.

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2001 PT Cruiser: How too remove crankshaft pulley 2001 PT Cruiser...


GET A 3 SPOKE PULLEY EXTRACTOR AND SCREW IN THE BOLT BUT IN THE CRANKSHAFT HOLE PUT A MUCH SMALLER SCEW SO YOU WOUNT MESS THE INSIDE UP

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Were is the crankshaft position sensor located on 2001 chevy mali


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Mar 22, 2010 | Chevrolet Malibu Cars & Trucks

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My bf can not get the corner bolt off to get to my timing belt


This is not an easy task and you will find it takes about 6-8 hours if you have all the needed parts ready to install if you need them. Don't expect to just go to the local parts place and obtain some of these parts. There are several dealer only parts.

Before you start this job:
1. Inspect the upper and lower torque struts that hold the motor on the passenger side. Order them ahead of time if you see they are damaged. Make sure the local parts store has them in stock if you are not sure of their integrity. You can tell if they are bad when you remove them; they just fall apart or you can see the split neoprene.
2. Inspect your accessory belts and the serpentine tensioner pulley prior to beginning the work. Order the belts (If you have over 75,000 miles on the vehicle, you will need the new accessory belts.) or know where you can purchase them locally.
3. Make sure you can get a new timing belt tensioner unit locally at your Mopar Dealer. If you have a mechanical timing belt tensioner, you are warned by a Dodge technical bulletin to replace it with a hydraulic unit.
4. Order a water pump and replace it while replacing the timing belt.
5. Of course, purchase a timing belt, lol...


First, it was necessary to remove the passenger side tire and the splash guard behind the tire in the wheel well. The next items to remove were the accessories belts (ac, alternator, etc.) which included the serpentine belt. The crankshaft damper had to be removed with a three-arm puller tool and a small insert that protects the crankshaft threads. Remove the power steering pump by just setting it off to the side after removing the bolts. You don't have to undo the hoses; just lay it over to the side.

Using a floor jack, you hold the engine in place while you remove the lower torque arms. Inspect the upper and lower torque arms carefully. I would at least inspect these torque arms carefully for broken neoprene prior to beginning the timing belt change.


Next, you must remove the serpentine tensioner plate which has three bolts. This was a totally unexpected cost for my timing belt replacement when I tried to purchase only the plastic tensioner pulley and was informed that the item was not a replacement part; you had to go to Dodge and purchase an entire plate (with a redesigned "hydraulic" tensioner for the serpentine belt tensioner). go to a local salvage yard and obtained a fairly new tensioner pulley for about $5.00; the old plastic pulley will be completely worn away. A new serpentine tensioner plate with the integral tensioner is $429 at Dodge.


You can now remove the front timing cover. Make sure to align the camshaft and crankshaft timing marks before removing the timing belt. The camshaft pulley has a mark that needs to align with the mark on the head above the pulley. The crankshaft sprocket should line up at the same time with its mark at the top of the oil pump assembly. If you accidentally move the camshaft in some manner, after you remove the timing belt, you can damage the pistons or valves.

Next, to loosen the old timing belt, you need to look at the tensioner. Insert an 8 mm Allen wrench into the hexagon opening located on the front of the belt tensioner pulley. Rotate the pulley counterclockwise until it contacts the stop. While holding tensioner pulley against stop, insert a 1/8" or 3 mm diameter pin or Allen wrench through the hole located to the left of the hex opening. While pushing pin into hole, allow the tensioner pulley to rotate back. Almost immediately, the pin should engage the locking hole to prevent further movement of the pulley. I was totally surprised by what happened when I tried to purchase a new timing belt tensioner pulley as my pulley was worn quite badly. I received the wrong part to replace the tensioner pulley three times at three different parts stores. It took about an hour to discover that there was a problem with the old "mechanical" timing belt tensioners. It is not just recommended that you change the tensioner; you must replace the timing belt tensioner plate and all if you have the older mechanical tensioner. This is a technical bulletin from Mopar that says there have been several "explosions" of the mechanical units with engine replacements needed; the tensioner actually blew a hole in the engine block. Of course, this is not a "free replacement" due to a manufacturing problem; you must purchase this item. Some of the latter models of the 2000 Neon have had the hydraulic units installed and all you need to purchase is the tensioner pulley which costs about $30. You can tell if you have the mechanical one when you actually get into and remove the timing belt; the mechanical unit has four pronounced legs, while the hydraulic unit is more of a plate (even though the holes align for both units). You must replace the back timing belt cover with a new tensioner installation (and it comes with the kit). In the earlier neon model required a complete plate, hydraulic unit and tensioner pulley replacement. And, of course, it a dealer item only with a cost of $469.

Before you begin your job of timing belt replacement, find out if you own an earlier 2000 and also locate a dealer with the unit in stock. You honestly should install the hydraulic unit as the technical bulletin explains the damage from an "explosion".


While you are in there, you should replace the water pump. If you read all the bulletins and people's posts about this item going bad just after they finished the timing belt, you really should just purchase the water pump and make sure it has the seal in the kit (some did not include the water pump seal.). The water pump was only $40. If you have to replace it, you see all the trouble you must go through again to get it out of the timing belt area. The water pump is driven by the timing belt.
The oil pump is also driven by the timing belt; however, there are not many failures of the oil pumps.

Now you may start to put the timing belt into place. If you have gotten the timing just a tiny bit off, you can follow the procedure as below. It is hard to explain in words only without pictures; however, I will try to do so.


Set crankshaft sprocket to TDC by aligning the sprocket with the arrow on the oil pump housing, then back off to 3 notches before TDC, that is clockwise three teeth.

Use a large wrench and the crankshaft nut to carefully adjust the timing. This is to allow for belt installation later.


Set camshaft to TDC by aligning mark on sprocket with the arrow on the rear of timing belt cover. Move crankshaft to 1/2 mark before TDC for belt installation.


Install timing belt.
Starting at the crankshaft, go around the water pump sprocket and then around the camshaft sprocket.
Move crankshaft sprocket to TDC to take up belt slack.
Remove the pin or 1/8" or 3 mm Allen wrench from belt tensioner.
Rotate crankshaft 2 revolutions and check the alignment of the timing marks.


Install front timing belt cover. Install engine mount bracket. Install right engine mount to engine mount bracket through bolt. Remove jack from under engine. Install upper torque strut. Install power steering pump assembly. Raise vehicle and install lower torque strut. Install crankshaft damper using M12-1.75 x 150 mm bolt, washer, thrust bearing and nut from Special Tool 6792. Install crankshaft damper bolt and tighten to 142 Nm (100 ft. lbs.). Install accessory drive belts. Install right inner splash shield.
Lower vehicle and perform camshaft and crankshaft timing relearn procedure as follows: Connect the DRB scan tool to the data link (diagnostic) connector. This connector is located in the passenger compartment; at the lower edge of instrument panel; near the steering column. Turn the ignition switch on and access the "miscellaneous" screen. Select "re-learn cam/crank" option and follow directions on DRB screen.
It is not a fun job unless you enjoy some very hard work and have a few specialized tools. The scan tool was purchased at Sears (I hope I can say a specific name. You can purchase the scan tool at a parts store or off the web as well.). The special tool is a three-arm puller. The other special tool is to protect the crankshaft threads. Hope this helps!!! and thank you for using FIxya

Mar 08, 2010 | 2000 Dodge Neon

1 Answer

How i fix timing of lantra 1600 cc 95


Disconnect battery earth lead. Do not turn crankshaft or camshaft when timing belt removed. Remove spark plugs to ease turning engine. Turn engine in normal direction of ratation unless otherwise stated, Support engine. Remove, engine mounting, auxilliaty drive belts. Water pump pulley 1. Crankshaft pulley bolts 21. crankshaft pully 2. timing belt covers 3. Turn crankshaft to TDC on No 1 cyclinder. Ensure crankshaft sprocket, camshaft sprocket, oil pump sprocket and balancer shaft sprocket timing marks aligned. Timing marks on camshaft sprockets should align with cylinder head upper face. Dowel pins on camshaft sprockets should face upwards. Slacken tensioner bolt. Move tensioner away from belt and lightly tighten bolt. Remove, automatic tensioner unit bolts. Automatic tensioner unit. Timing belt, crankshaft centre bolt, crankshaft sprocket. Crankshaft sprocket guide washer. Slacken blancer shaft belt tensioner bolt. Move tensioner away from belt and lightly tighten bolt. Remove balancer shaft belt.

Installation
Ensuring timing marks arligned. Note timing marks on camshaft sprockets should align with cylinder head upper face. Exhaust sprocket mark is on recess, but inlet sprocket mark is on tooth. Note: to check oil pump sprocket positioned correctly, removing blanking plug from cylinder block. Insert 8mm diameter Phillips srcrewdriver in hole. Ensure screwdriver is inserted 60mm from face of cylinder block. if screwdriver can only be inserted 20mm: turn oil pump sprocket 360°. Insert screwdriver again. Fit balancer shaft belt in anti-clockwise direction, starting at crankshaft sprocket. Slacken balancer shaft belt tensioner bolt. Turn tensioner clockwise to tension belt. Tighten bolt to 15-22Nm. Apply thumb pressure to belt. Belt should deflect 5-7 mm. If not repeat tensioning procedure. Install crankshaft sprocket guide washer, crnakshaft sprocket. Tighten crankshaft cente bolt. Tighten torque:110-130 Nm. Note ensure crankshaft sprocket guide washer is fitted correclty. Oil treads and contact face of crankshaft body before fitting. Check tensioner body for leakage or damage replace if necessary. Check pushrod protrusion is 12mm. If not replace automatic tensioner unit. Slowly compress pushrod into tensioner body until holes aligned. Resistance should be felt. Place flat washer under tnesioner body to avoid damage to body end plugs. Retain pushrod with suitable pin through hole in tensioner body. install automatic tensioner unit to cylinder block. Tighten bolts to 22-27Nm. Fit timing belt in anti-clockwise direction, starting at the tensioner pulley. Slacken tensioner pulley bolt. Turn tensioner pully clockwise to temporarily tension belt. Tighten bolts to 43-45Nm. Turn crankshaft slowly 1/4 turn anti-cockwise. Turn crankshaft clockwise until timing marks alligned. Slacken tensioner pully bolt. Fit tool to tensioner pulley. Tool No 09244 28100. Apply clockwise torque of 2,6-2,8 Nm to tensioner pulley. Tighten bolt to 43-45Nm. Insert special tool in timing belt rear casing. Tool no 09244-28000. Screw in tool until pin can be removed from automatic tensioner unit. Remove special tool. Tool nr 09244-28000. turn crankshaft two turns clockwise. Wait 15 minutes. Ensure timing marks aligned. Check extended length of pushrod is 3,8-4,5mm. Install components in reverse order of removal. Tighten crankshaft pulley bolts, Tighten torque 20-30Nm

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1 Answer

Crankshaft pulley wobbled loose an alternator belt wont stay on...


dear friend-as this crankshaft pulley is cast iron it is impossible that it could be bent so you will have to remove it and look for damage inside the pulley and on the crankshaft,if this is not repaired the fanbelt will never stay on.

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