Question about 1997 Ford Mustang Cobra

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Starts goes to 1500 rpm then stalls - 1997 Ford Mustang Cobra

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Check engine light? I would check the EGR valve and PDFE senor to make sure its not stuck open since this controls idle speed. If it is stuck slightly open car will rev then stall motor does not know idle speed when open. Valve should be closed only time it opens is when your driving down the road.

Posted on Aug 05, 2010

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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

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How dose a stall converter work in a ford with a c6 transmishion


The stall in a converter is when the internal parts of the converter lock and has the same rpm,s as the engine. Transferred to the transmission input shaft. Factory is 1000 to 1500 rpm stall. Put another way. You have a 1500 stall converter, when you floor the gas pedal and the rpm,s go to 1500 real fast, the rear tires will spin faster than the vehicle is going. Don't put a larger stall in a vehicle that isn't built to take the torque. Ie.. Upgraded engine, transmission and rear differential. Some thing will break.

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Won't go into gear


is this an auto or stick shifted car, ??? we can not guess this, ever.
you said, Gear, that is stick shift and A/T has no gears.
it has, R, D, 1,2,.. selections... are all 4 dead.?
shudders?
starts,
is RPM 800 or more?
you then shift to say reverse...
and step on the throttle , RPM is 800 and it advances to 1500 or more
and car moves,
does RPM go above 3000 and not move
that means , the tranny (or TCM or sensors) are bad.
if your RPM goes to 2000 and is stuck there, and car will not
move in any shifted rage, 1,2,D,L, then the brakes are iced over.
the key to this mystery is RPM. the engine RPM will tell you
what is happening,
for sure.
post it. and we can tell you.

slipping is when the tranny allows RPM to be unlimited at right foot actions.
if the brakes are frozen the RPM will be at the TC clutch stall speed
that is , about 2000rpm max and will shake there. (5sec max doing that)
see the FSM on stall speed, of your A/T
if this is a clutch car, say so, M/T stick car, say so, that be DIFFERENT/

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1999 mercury couger engine loops at idle


i had the same problem on my car. it was the idle air control motor (stepper motor) it helps control the amount of air flow. when it goes bad it sticks making the idle go up and down. its an easy fix.you will bolted to the intake manifold . it took me 10 min and 1 wrench

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05 Suzuki XL7 wouldnt sart. Then started and idled up to 3000 rpm and back down. Batt light, air bag light, ck engine light, and 4wd flashing. In reverse it accelerated on its own. Depressed gas pedal in...


id go for chicken feet and blood and voodoo , sessions.....loL

first off, i see an illegal fast idle ,
and all A/T trannys do that, when the engine rpm fraks up.
to move car, due to the stall speed rules of the clutch torque converter (aka ,the fluid clutch) wiki clutch stall speed.

that A/T weakness, is why folks run over kids. (the lame excuse)
starting a car with foot off the brake is , folly, thus the lock all outs called park lock features.

i can not follow your sequence of events.so will ask questions.
1: I start the engine, its don't want to but does. (ever tune it up?)

2: Does the CHECK engine lamp go out (CEL/SES)? running.
for sure, if the engines stalls many lights will glow in the cluster but that is normal, see? for any stall.!
The Charge light comes on anytime the Alternator goes dead
or hits near 0 RPM (stalled)
so are you saying at 3000 rpm, the charge lamp came on.
/??????
battery lamp is not battery, its really a Charge lamp.
the op guide states that too.
on my car I have a battery gauge too, and shows VOLTS.
at idle its 14v. its 14v at all rpm. if less, say so.
I have 2004. GV. with full manuals. even factory FSM. ++++++

ok , in drive, no acceleration, are you saying ,
1: im in A/T drive.
2: the engine is idling at 800 RPM hot or near 1500 cold
3000 is wrong, dead wrong, you in ALASKA, state location(gen)

i increase the RPM with my right foot and the car don't move
in DRIVE
as RPM rises above 1500 RPM, you do have a tacho , i see that.
if it does not move with hgher RPMs, the trans is bad or its TCM is bad.
on your car the TCM is hidden deep inside the PCM. back in 1997.

the PCM runs the engine and tranny today.
if something lies to the TCM/PCM the tranny will not go into drive.
on newer 96+ cars, you see the check engine lamp glow.
running (not stalled, stalling this CEL glows all the time)
but running, the CEL glowing means Faults found, scan me,. please.
eg:
so you scan it, and find DTC's stored (many?) eg.... in english...
the transmission selector switch is bad. or worse.
not using a scan tool ,means ($7 cost) means you miss all the facts. hard cold real facts.
the ECU can not shift any car with a bad selector switch.
so throws the DTC error.
it can be even be a loose selector cable, cave man simple.

recap.
does the CEL lamp stay out running at all times.
no, ? then scan it.
do not post car problems with stored, or pending DTCs on any car newer than 1995. or its just wild guessing.. mostly.

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1 Answer

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I'm assuming the truck runs ok once it is warmed up. Sounds like you need to make some adjustments. The cold idle speed is set too high, and the choke is opening too fast. The cold idle should be around 1500 rpm and the choke should take at least 90 seconds to open depending on air temp.

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