Question about 1999 Oldsmobile Cutlass
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
Disconnect the battery negative cable, carefully remove the door panel, make sure you remove all the visible hold down screws holding the arm rest and other things in place, be careful and observant, don't force anything. If you don't have the standard door panel removal tools, use a stiff putty knife or a wide screwdriver to remove the door panel, you will have to get the power window control switch and the lock control rods out of the way, take notes so you know how they go back together, Remove the plastic weather protection shield out of the way, try not to tear it because you will want to replace it using a good contact adhesive. Getting the motor and the lift mechanism out is the biggest challenge, There are two big rivets holding the motor and regulator assembly to the door, there are two more rivets closer to the rear of the door that holds the track and window guide in place. the rivets are difficult to drill out because it's not easy to center punch them. I used my 4 inch grinder to remove the rivet heads, be careful not to injure yourself or grind through the door metal. knock the rivets out. Remove the power supply wire from the motor. Use a 10 MM socket to untighten the two cap screws that hold the lift bracket to the bottom glass channel. Don't take the cap screws all the way out. Use a piece of wire to hold the window in the closed position. Loop the wire over one of the hold down cap screws and fasten the other end through one of the convenient holes near the top of the door. Now comes the good part. the motor and lift mechanism is all in one near rigid piece. The seat belt anchor blocks the door panel opening that would make it relatively easy to remove. Don't give up, the unit will come out with some thoughtful manipulation, the V shaped track guide will tolerate a small amount of flexing, don't overdo it. I finally got the assembly out by moving it as far to the back of the the door cavity as possible, use the angles of the assembly to your advantage to free it from the door. Once free, use a black marker to ensure you align your new motor in the correct postition. If you are replacing a complete assembly that looks the same a the part you removed, install by reversing the above directions. If you are replacing only the motor, drill out the two rivets that hold the motor to the lift assembly. this will be asy to do. fit your new motor in the exact same position, referring to the previous marks you made. If you are reusing the old lift mechanism, you should pull the perforated tape out of the guide, clean, inspect it, the guide and the tape, relubricate it, I used white grease, there is probably a better grease available. The motor assembly I received from an internet supplier came with rivets and machine screws to install the assembly, I used 1/2 quarter twenty nuts and bolts to replace the big rivets, I don't have a big enough rivet gun. If you go the quarter twenty way, use thread lock, install with bolt heads on the inside the door and flat washers and nuts to the car interior. Be observant, I left the plastic bracket that attaches the drive tape to the window bottom in an unsecure place, one of my dogs used it as a chew toy,so it was off to the junkyard one more time. Be sure to secure the tape properly at both ends. If it worn or frayed, several suppliers including rockauto supply them at reasonable cost. good luck.
Posted on Oct 10, 2008
in my 2004 grand caravan it's behind the glove box and left of the blower motor. disconnect the wires first then remove the 2 screws to pull out the resistor unit. First make sure you have removed the negative of your batterie. I had the same pm that prevented the blower motor to operate in any speed. I hope this will help
Posted on Dec 25, 2008
maybe the wire is severed where the door (drver dr) pivots. thats what was wrong with mine. there is a rubber boot with crinkles in it that hold all the wires together. you can also try replacing the switch board that controls the wndws on the drvr dr. hope that helps.
Posted on Jan 20, 2009
ALL YOU NEED IS 3/8 RATCHET WITH A 5/8 SPARK PLUG SOCKET.YOU NEED EXTENSIONS AND UNIVERSAL JOINTS TO GET TO HARD TO REACH PLACES.YOU NEED A SPARK PLUG GAUGE.YOUR SPARK PLUG GAP SETTING WILL BE. 0.060 THAT WILL BE FOR THE 2.2 AND 3.1 ENGINES.
Posted on Aug 17, 2009
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I just replaced the turn signal flasher today in my 1996 Olds Ciera. It was not near the steering column. It's actually behind the fuse box in the glove box but the easiest way to get to it is to remove the ashtray/cigarette lighter and it's harness and reach back to the right behind the fuse box. It took all of 10 minutes to replace. This is not the same as the hazard flasher, just the turn signal one.
Posted on Oct 26, 2009
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