Question about 1988 Chevrolet C1500

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I have over 2" of clutch pedal free travel in my 88 chevy 3/4 ton. I have tried bleeding the slave cylinder several differant ways but this doesnt change the free travel distance. what am i overlooking?

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You could have a weak slave cylinder, or the fingers on the pressure plate may be worn out. If this is the original clutch I would probably say that is about worn out and the clutch fork is at the end of it's travel and can not be adjust out any further.
On some slave cylinder end you can find that the end of the slave rod had a adjustment ball that can be screwed out to help decrease free play. You might look and see if your slave has an adjustable rod, if not you are going to likely going to have to replace either the slave or the clutch.

Posted on Aug 04, 2010

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2 Answers

Put new slave in as leaking. adjusted clutch pedal. wont go into gear when car on but will when off


Sounds like either air in the system, or to much free play/travel on the pedal...

Bleed system make sure free of air...

You only want approximately 1 1/2 " of free travel at the pedal... Assuming you made the adjustment at the slave cylinder pushrod??..

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Not sure why you replaced master and slave. might be disc or pressure plate problem. If not, then you still have some air in the system. I suggest using a MitiVac which uses vacuum instead of pumping the pedal. It is an easy tool to operate and only requires 1 person, you squeeze it by hand. Sometimes it can be stubborn air bubble, but you must have full pedal travel to clear the gears when you shift. Hope that helps.

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Did u bleed slave cylinder? If not you must bleed just like you would bleed breaks.... you need to make sure you fill the master cylinder resvr too before attempting to bleed. If r his doesn't work post back with update.

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I just replaced the clutch, pressure plate, throwout bearing and both the master and slave cylinders. I am not getting any significant travel in the slave when I push the pedal in. How much travel should...


you may just open the bleeder, and let it gravity bleed. make sure on the master cylinder that the piston is coming all the way back when the pedal is all the way back/up. there's an adjustment for that, on the rod connecting the clutch pedal to the master cylinder.

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My clutch was wokin good and then all of a suddent there was no pressure on my clutch so i checked and it had to dot 3 fluid in it so i put sum in but it leaked it out rite away it came out on driverside...


It sounds like the rubber seal on the Clutch Slave Cylinder piston has completely failed. You will need to replace the Slave Cylinder Assembly. To replace, undo the union nut that attaches the pipe from the master cylinder and then undo the bolts that attach the assembly to the engine/transmission. Remove the push rod from the old cylinder and place in the new. Reattach Cylinder Assembly and pipe, making sure push rod engages in socket of clutch operating fork. Bleeding the system is as follows.

1. Start with the Master Cylinder full of fluid. (Don't forget to check after a few bleeds that it stays above ¼ full so that you don't introduce more air into the line). It also helps if you have a length of clear plastic tubing that fits snugly over the tip of the bleed nipple, which makes it easier to see if there are any air bubbles still coming out.

2. Have an assistant pump the clutch pedal 2 or 3 times, then hold down, keeping weight on the pedal as fluid is released.

3. Loosen bleed nipple to release any air & fluid.

4. Tighten nipple. Assistant then lets clutch pedal return. It may be necessary to manually pull back pedal if it does not return by itself.

5. Wait a few seconds then repeat the sequence from #2.

Bleeding is complete when no more air bubbles are visible in the fluid released from the bleed nipple. If clutch is still spongy you may have to repeat the bleeding after a few days driving. If the Slave cylinder does not have a bleed nipple the union nut that attaches the fluid pipe can be used for bleeding. However, it is a bit harder to observe when all air is purged and of course very messy as fluid will drip everywhere.

It also pays to check that the clutch pedal free travel is within specification (about ¼ inch measured at the pedal rubber) to ensure the hydraulic system works properly. This is done by adjusting the push rod that links the pedal arm to the piston in the master cylinder. Adjust by first loosening the locknut on the rod at the end where it attaches to the pedal arm and turning the rod in either direction to obtain the correct free travel. One adjusted retighten locknut.

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It sounds like your Slave Clutch Cylinder has gone bad but here are a few more possibilities: Your Primary Clutch Cylinder is normally more stout but are you bleeding out on both ends? Have you checked for leakage from your Slave Cylinder to your Primary? Are you losing any fluid ? Did you break any fingers on your Clutch Pressure Plate?

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Clutch will not engage.


You have to bleed the system again they can be a pain in the b@TT, also get a second person to operate the clutch and watch to see if the lever moves, if it does pull off the rubber and make sure you have the Y on the pivot ball inside the transmission. And if you don't get enough throw adjust the clutch rod on the clutch pedal by removing the pin and loosen the lock nut and make it longer by unscrewing the shaft. You want a half inch of free play at the top of the pedal the you want the clutch to catch about 3/4 of the way down. Also if you try to put it in gear does it grind the gears? Also did you put the clutch plate in backwards this is a common mistake even for a pro who gets interrupted by a phone call or a good-looking gal walking by, if ya need more suggestions let me know by posting to this comment.
Avid101

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2 Answers

I have no pressure in the clutch and changed the master cylinder


you need to bleed master & slave cyl master dont hold much fluid must bleed similar like brks when when starts coming out of bleeder close bleeder let sit couple of minutes air travel top of master pump pedal more repeat pumping pedal air residue will work it self out

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If you have had the flywheel cut, have a clutch with a different release height (different finger or diaphram design & height) or a remanufactured pressure plate, or all of the above, you may run into this problem.
Small differences there translate to a large difference at the pedal. On linkage type designs, there were several options including longer/shorter throwout bearing or adjustable fork pivot ball. Hydraulic systems should compensate somewhat, but if you are beyond the travel of the slave cyl, I'm not sure there is anything you can do from the outside. I would check that there are no air leaks. If you have an external slave cylinder you may be able to make a slightly longer rod that connects the slave to the clutch fork. I really can't think of anything else to do at this point.
Hope this helps a bit.

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