Question about Mitsubishi Eclipse
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
Your question was truncated. I see that the bad sensor is on bank 1, but I can not see if it is the upstream (sensor 1) or downstream (sensor 2) sensor. The upstream sensors are mounted in the exhaust manifolds (look sort of like spark plugs) and have wires going to them.
You will need a 7/8" or 22mm wrench to remove the sensor (after disconnecting the wires). If your car has over 70,000 miles I STRONGLY suggest that you replace BOTH upstream sensors. One in each exhaust manifold.
Posted on Dec 23, 2008
Hello. One way to check if it is working is when you try to start the car does the needle move on you tac? If not then your crank sensor is more then likely the problem. It is located on the backside of the engine under the intake manifold. If is in about the center of the block. There will be a 10mm bolt holding the sensor in. If you decide to change it yourself (not to terrible of a job) unplug the sensor, remove the bolt and spin it back and forth slightly while pulling it out. It may be stoburn and you might have to work at it for a little bit (not a done of room) but it will come. When it's out the sensor will be shaped kind of like an L. I have changed a few of these over time and they can be a little stoburn. To install just reverse the process.
Posted on Mar 26, 2009
SOURCE: where is the crankshaft sensor
You may want to take a trip to your local Nissan dealer. There is a campaign/recall where we replace both the cam and crank position sensors. Your vehicle may apply to this campaign and you can get a set of free/new sensors installed.
The sensor is located on the engine block, near where the transmission bolts up, on the firewall side. The sensor can be replaced from the top or the bottom, and if you don't know what you are doing, it can be extremely difficult to put one in.
The biggest problem is the connector securing the wiring harness to the sensor. Unlike the camshaft position sensor connector, the crank position sensor is secured to the harness via some push button green colored assembly. Once the green button was depressed ALL THE WAY DOWN I was then able to pull the connector off. Then AND ONLY THEN was I able to get a 10mm socket with extension on it thus being able to remove it.
Your going to take the air horn and baffle off and then I used a large tie wrap to secure out of the way to heater hoses. Then you can be able to get your arm down between the firewall and the block and do what I mentioned in the paragraph above.
if you want to replace it from under the vehicle. Use a 90 degree screwdriver to use as a prybar for the green lock. Push against the axle for leverage and then the lock goes down. Then use an extension with a 10mm wobble with a 1/4" drive ratchet and remove the sensor. You usually have to use a pair of needle-nosed vice grips to remove the sensor, but since it's bad, destroy it anyways, it's a non-issue.
Good luck and hope this helps, Be really careful when you start the bolt back in after installing the new one. It's easy to cross thread.
Posted on May 07, 2009
It is on the rear of the engine, passenger side. You need to access it from the underside and it is halfway up the block between the head and the oilpan. It is real close to where the engine and transmission meet.
Posted on May 23, 2009
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