Question about 2004 Honda Accord
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
SOURCE: We have a 2004 Honda
This is a common issue for 2003 and 2004 Accords without Navigation. This issue has been brought upto Honda America and has extended the warranty for this issue to 7 years of 100,000 miles which ever comes first.
Posted on Feb 13, 2009
Pull open the center console ash tray, depress the sides, giggle it out and you'll find a series of numbers ( I think on the bottom ) and there you will find your gold. The find digit number is it. If you entered too many wrong numbers, follow the manual on how to get more tries.
Also, this has to be the original radio in the car.
Posted on Apr 06, 2009
This is the Radio Anti Theft feature which is activated whenever there is a complete power loss to the radio (as in when it is stolen out of the car). A Honda Tech or ASE Certified Auto Tech would have plugged in a Memory Minder into the OBDII slot to not only prevent this, but also protect the Main ECM from resetting which could create drivability issue.
If the Honda is now registered in your name, take it to your local Honda Dealer. They should be able to pull the Radio Serial number without removing it like in the older Hondas, simply a matter of pushing the right buttons. With the Radio Serial Number, Your Proof of Ownership (Registration) and a Photo ID that matches it, either the Parts Department Or Service should be able to give you a Radio Code for it.
As for the CD ERR codes, the CD player probably is broken and will need to be sent out by Honda to a outside facility to be repaired. That will probably run between $250 to $350, plus the labor cost to remove it and reinstall it.
If you just bought this Honda, or any vehicle, I always strongly recommend having a Manufacture Dealership do at least a oil change on it and check what other services may be due, you might also discover it has Recalls that have yet to be completed that they can take care of for you. Catch the little problems before they ruin that Great Deal you just got buying it.
Strongly suggest you also join Hondas “OwnersLink”, you can find it on the Honda web site under Owners Resources links. In the future you can use this to recover your Radio code after you’ve been registered for awhile. Also keeps you notified of Recalls, Service Issues and even sends out Discount coupons (Latest is a $119 trunk cargo trays for $39, that is a Fantastic Deal).
Posted on May 04, 2009
SOURCE: my radio needs a code
"i have a 2004 honda accord my radio needs a code"
I had the same problem on my Honda Accord.
After several attempts to fix and many error messages I called a Honda house and the lady in service said "No problem". She then asked for the two codes listed by using the procedure described above (the "U" and "L" codes which both contain 4 digit numbers following the U or the L.
I gave her this and she "looked it up".
In a couple of minutes she returned with a 5 digit code which I immediately tried.
Of course it didn't work because it only has room for 4 numbers.
I went thru the battery disconnect reset (for 5 minutes) and while that was going on, I remembered that the code for the navigation system was located by another service tech once before.
All he did was pop the top off the fuse panel under the hood.
On the cover, along with the fuse identification was a white sticker with some numbers on it.
One of the typewritten numbers had a "N" written with a pen on it.
Another number was 4-digit and had a "R" in blue ink, like the N written on it.
I thought "If N stands for navigation, would R stand for radio?"
The rest is history.
When I plugged that number into the radio in the code entry mode - everything started working.
If I hadn't seen that tech open and retrieve the navigation code, I never would have related "N" and "R". The under hood fuse box is located on the driver's side up near the windshield.
Posted on May 25, 2009
Try 'jiggling' the key while you hold it in the start position' this could be a failed ignition switch.
It could also be that the + terminal on the starter or starter solenoid may be corroded. Since the battery was just replaced, those terminals are probably clean enough but check the negative cable where it attaches to the chassis or block. If the connection is flaky here, enough current can often pass to allow lower current devices to operate but drop too much voltage if the starter is trying to operate. Starters require 100-200 amperes, many times higher than anything else in our vehicles and show up cruddy connections pretty quick.
Posted on Nov 21, 2009
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