Question about 2004 Suzuki Forenza

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I press on the clutch there is no tension me and my brother in law bleeded it by pumping clutch open the bolt air came out closed it that worked for about two days then it started all over i have to speed shift there is no leake externaly ive looked on the ground nothing has been dripping but im losing fluid i heard stretched out cable you have to bleed it better i have no idea what to do im definatly not a mechanic

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  • Richard Scordino Aug 03, 2010

    If you bled the system and it worked for a few days then air is getting into the system and you have a leak. Only other option is that the master is internally bypassing but that's doubtful as bleeding generally does not correct that.



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First of all you do not bleed a clutch if it has a concentric (hydraulic) bearing inside the gearbox by pumping it, just open the bolt for the air to come out, no need of pressing, after few minutes you should see the fluid coming slowly (make sure your expansion tank is full), once it comes slowly tight the air bolt, press the clutch once or twice and repeat the whole process until the clutch pedal is hard. Should be fine from than.

Posted on Aug 03, 2010


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1 Answer

Bleeding hydraulic clutches

to do it without any funny or expensive tools,you need someones help,one person pump the clutch pedal a few times and then holds it down to the floor bord,then as soon as he holds it down the second person opens the bleeding nipple in the frount of the gearbox where the engine and gearbox bolt together,as soon as all air is out close the nipple and the inside person pumps again .repeat until all air is out of the system and clutch fluid is clear and squirting out strong

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How do i bleed the clutch on a 2001 Mitsubishi challenger

1 Press clutch pedal in fully and hold.
2 Open the bleed screw to allow fluid to escape.
3 Close bleed screw quickly.
4 Release pedal completely
5 Top off fluid in reservoir. Leave cap off of reservoir.
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7 Now purge the slave cylinder of any air bubbles that might be trapped inside of it.
8 Grab the clutch fork and push towards the slave cylinder pushing the rod all of the way into the slave cylinder as far as it will go AND HOLD it in.
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10 As soon as the pedal hits the floor command your bleeder monkey to close the valve before you let the pedal return from the floor.
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Hydraulic clutch

yes you have to bleed the slave cylinder at the clutch-look around for wettness due to a leak while you bleed it- start by cheking the fluid level and keep full while bleeding-you will need 2 people to bleed-one to pump it up,hold it down then another underneath to open the bleeder-only open for a short time,then close and pump up again-should only take like 3 times-don't let the peddle up while bleeder is open and don't let the resivour run out of fluid or you'll just pump more air into system- cheers Denny

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1 Answer

How do i bleed the clutch fulid

1. Inspect and fill clutch master cylinder reservoir with appropriate hydraulic oil. You will want to check this during the bleeding process making sure it doesn't run out or you will get air into the system again. Leave cap off of reservoir.
2. Have your friend camp in the drivers seat to push in and let out the clutch pedal when you tell him to.
3. During this procedure DO NOT allow your friend to "pump" the clutch pedal.
4. You will be opening and closing the bleed screw on the slave cylinder as instructed below. CAUTION: During this procedure protect your eyes from squirting brake fluid by using a small hose and a soda bottle. Brake fluid is nasty stuff so wear gloves.
5. (Helper) Press clutch pedal in fully and hold.
6. (You) Open the bleed screw to allow fluid to escape.
7. (You) Close bleed screw quickly.
8. (Helper) Release pedal completely
9. (You) Top off fluid in reservoir. Leave cap off of reservoir.
10. Repeat steps #6 - #9 no less than 10 times before going to #12 below. NO PUMPING!
11. Now you will want to purge the slave cylinder of any air bubbles that might be trapped inside of it.
12. Grab the clutch fork and push towards the slave cylinder pushing the rod all of the way into the slave cylinder as far as it will go AND HOLD it in.
13. (You) open bleed valve and command helper to push the clutch down slowly purging any air that was trapped in the slave cylinder
14. (Helper) As soon as the pedal hits the floor command your bleeder monkey to close the valve before you let the pedal return from the floor.
15. Repeat steps #6 - #9 one last time

Dec 03, 2013 | 2001 Chevrolet Silverado 1500

2 Answers

How do i go about bleeding the clutch on a1994 chevrolet 3500.

Its bascily the same princable as bleeding brakes However you need to look for leaks in differant stops . With the clutch you the resivior that you fill with fluid then the master cylinder witch is attached to the brake pedal with a rod to push it in when you apply the brakes and then the slave cylinder that is located near the clutch disc and pressure plate and flywheel on the bell houseing . The slave cylinder it where the bleeder is located and has a fitting much like a calipar or wheel cylinder that needs to be opened and closed during the bleeding process to let the air out open pedal depressed and closed when the pedal is released so the air can't get back in the system . Air is compresable fluid is not . Look for fluid leaks inside the cab of the vehicle near the master cylinder because if fluid can get out then air is getting in the system and you will never be able to bleed it completly You will need a clear peice of plastic tubeing that fits over the bleeder put the other end in a bottle with some fluid in it already have some one push down on the clutch pedal while you have a wrench on the bleeder to open and close it as required when the air bubbles stop comeing out the end of the tubeing that is in the bottle with the fluid you are done bleeding the system Good luck its not that hard you just need two people to do it and make sure the bleeder is closed when the pedal is travaling up or you will **** air back into the system

Mar 05, 2011 | Chevrolet 3500 Cars & Trucks

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I replaced a slave cylinder on my 2000 Ford F250 diesel truck now I can't get the air to bleed off. A mechanic friend said to keep pumping the clutch but that doesn't help

Hi, if you didn't bench-bleed the slave, it can have trapped air away from the bleeder. What I do is to bleed the slave by pushing the cylinder in with the bleeder open (close the bleeder before releasing the piston). Depending on the type of slave, you can usually get a screwdriver between the clutch lever and the piston to compress it. You need to compress it fully to get the bubbles out of the bleeder port. OK?


Feb 06, 2011 | 2000 Ford F250 Super Duty Crew Cabs

1 Answer

How do you install a clutch master cylinder on a k1500 v6 chevy

Remove the fluid line, then go inside cab at clutch pedal remove linkage that connects master and clutch pedal. Remove bolts that hold it in place and remove unit. reinstall in reverse order and bleed system at clutch slave by opening bleeder then pushing clutch pedal down and holding until bleeder is closed. repeat until solid fluid comes out, then with bleeder closed pump clutch pedal three times and open bleeder to relieve any left over air.

Jun 22, 2010 | 1992 Chevrolet K1500

2 Answers

Changed slave cylinder 92gmc 1500 have no pedal

Hi: Your slave cylinder works like the master cylinder, it has a resevior for fluid and needs to be bleed free from air.

If you're not planning to remove the slave cylinder, I found it easier to use a set of ramps under the front wheels and work under the vehicle rather than jacking it up and taking off the front wheels. Put one end of the plastic tubing on the end of the nipple, the other in the empty jar.
When you have reassembled the clutch hydraulics, refill the clutch fluid reservoir, make sure the bleed nipple on the slave cylinder is tightly closed. Now, with the piece of wood within reach, slowly depress the clutch pedal with your hand and hold it down while you prop the wood against it, wedging the other end against the bolt that holds down the left front of the driver’s seat. Next, open the bleed nipple on the slave cylinder. You may see some fluid, or just a puff of air, or perhaps some of both in the form of bubbles. In any event, close the nipple tightly again. On your way back to the clutch pedal, check the fluid reservoir and top off as necessary. Hold the clutch pedal down with your hand as you remove the wood brace, then slowly release the pedal. When it is all the way up, press it down again slowly and reinsert the wood. Open and close the bleed nipple again. Repeat the entire process as many times as needed until you see a solid stream of clear brake fluid coming from the nipple with no air bubbles. Be sure to close the nipple tightly each time to avoid sucking air back into the system when you release the clutch pedal. And don’t forget to check the fluid reservoir each time.
Check the clutch pedal with your foot to see if you have normal pressure. If it seems okay start the vehicle and put it in gear (reverse if you’ve got it up on ramps). Now take it around the block and roadtest it. If all is not right, you’ve still got air in the system and will have to bleed it some more. Re-check the fluid reservoir again after a few hours—you may find that you need to top off the reservoir one last time.
Note: When I did mine, I had let the system drain so I could flush out dirty fluid. The first couple of times I opened the bleed nipple, therefore, I pumped the clutch pedal three times in order to make the process go a little faster, because I knew that the first couple of times all I’d be doing was compressing air.
I have replaced both my master and slave cylinders and have found through this experience that you do not need to open and close the bleed nipple. Because of the location of the slave cylinder gravity does the job. Just loosen the slave nipple and let the fluid run out until there is no more air. You might have to pump once or twice but once the fluid starts to move it works on its own. Tighten, nipple and you're done.

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2 Answers

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Have somebody pump the pedal fast about 3 or 4 times, on the last pump hold pedal down and close bleeder. Make sure fluid stays full in master cylinder, try it again, if it still doesn't work, then you might have a bad slave valve, if you haven't already replaced it.

Jan 30, 2009 | 2001 Pontiac Firebird

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Try opening bleeder screw on slave cylinder and let it GRAVITY BLEED, just open clutch mater and fill with fluid and then open slave cylinder bleeder screw and let it gravity bleed( run out by itself) When it does close bleeder screw and you should get pressure.(make sure master doesn't run out of fluid during this preocess).If pedal not good enough bleed as usual. PUMP PEDAL ABOUT 6 time then hold down to the floor using wrench open slave bleed screw and close back up with pedal still being held DOWN. Repeat until fluid comes out with out air.However if all this doesn't work, YOU WILL NEED TO REPLACE CLUTCH MATER CYLINDER. Conatct if you need more help and Good Luck. Thanks for using FIX YA

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