Question about 1999 Chrysler 300M
Save hours of searching online or wasting money on unnecessary repairs by talking to a 6YA Expert who can help you resolve this issue over the phone in a minute or two.
Best thing about this new service is that you are never placed on hold and get to talk to real repairmen in the US.
Here's a link to this great service
Posted on Jan 02, 2017
i have the same car and it did the same thing when i got it take it to a dealership there are 2 flashes for the bcm body control module that will recalibrate the automatic temp contol and that should fix the problem
Posted on Apr 01, 2009
SOURCE: AC belt on 1999 Chrysler 300M
When you replace the AC belt you really should replace the serpentine belt as well, since you will have to take it off already. If you don't do it now it is inevitable that you will have to replace it in like 3 weeks anyway : )
You need to first remove the serpentine belt by loosening the nut in the center of the idler pulley. After that you will need to loosen the push bolt on the side of the idler pulley. The hub bolt is a 15mm size and the push bolt on the side of the tensioner is a 13mm I think. After you loosen it sufficiently, you will need to pull off the old belt.
Next you will need to loosen the tensioner pulley for the AC belt as well. It is the same process. The main issue is space. You will most likely need to raise your car to get at the right angles to loosen these pulleys.
Once you loosen the idler pulley in the same manner as you loosened the other, you can slip the AC belt onto the back of the crank pulley and route it as the diagram under your hood instructs you. Next tighten up the idler pully in the opposite way as you loosend it...tighten up the push bolt until the belt play is within factory specifications, then tighten the hub bolt in the center of the pulley. Do the same for the serpentine belt and you should be up and running in no time. I just performed these tasks on my 2000 300m and I wish someone would have told me this before I started my project. Hope this helps, Good Luck!
Posted on May 26, 2009
Manual Programming Procedure (non scan tool)
1. Connect pin 1 of the 16-way data link connector to chassis ground or to pin 4 of the 16-way data link connector.
2. Close all doors, turn ignition key to off.
3. Turn ignition key to Accessory.
4. Turn ignition to off, door locks will cycle once (in programming mode).
5. For each key FOB, press any button 3 times in a row to program code. When programming is complete, the door locks will cycle once.
IF A SECOND KEY FOB REQUIRES PROGRAMMING, IT MUST BE PROGRAMMED WITHIN 1 MINUTE OF PROGRAMMING
THE FIRST FOB PROGRAMMING. PRESS ANY BUTTON ON THE SECOND FOB 3 TIMES TO PROGRAM ITS CODE. WHEN PROGRAMMING IS COMPLETE, THE DOOR LOCKS WILL CYCLE ONCE.
6. The programming mode finishes after the following:
a. Programming of two key FOBS is completed.
b. One minute has passed since programming.
c. Pin 1 of 16-way data link connector is removed from ground connection.
d. Ignition switch is turned on.
e. Any of the doors are opened.
Posted on Jun 25, 2009
Sounds like the timing belt broke. Unfortunately this vehicle was not equiped with no contact valves so if that is the case you will need to have the engine and Head rebuilt. If the crank position sensor can't sense the position of the crank it should shutdown the electrical to keep you from damaging your engine.
Posted on Oct 09, 2009
700 tells you that there has been a "transmission control circuit malfunction", and 740 basically pinpoints the possible culprit, which is "Torque converter clutch control circuit malfunction". If you don't notice any difference in the way the transmission is shifting, especially when you are at cruising speed on highway, or you've basically reached the speed your going to travel at, and are no longer accelerating, your converter normally goes into "lock-up" and your engine RPM's will drop by approx, 200-300 RPM's. When your driving it basically feels like transmission shifted again, slightly. If all feels well, it may just be a one time thing, but being how transmissions are somewhat temperamental, as well as expensive to repair when big problems occur, I would certainly consider getting it in to a dealer for diagnosis at least, and see what they come up with, as it may only be a bad switch, or bad, corroded connection causing the codes. Remember, if it sounds like an expensive,extensive repair, then simply get all the info, and either stop elsewhere for diagnosis of same problem, (without telling them it's already been diagnosed) and see what second opinion has to say. If in doubt after that, get back to us, with diagnosis results, and we'll be glad to help you decide from there. One thing you may want to consider though, is a transmission service, (oil and filter change) if it hasn't been done in a while, just as a preventative maintenance thing. Changing of oil and filter in those transmissions at regular intervals, is a good way of extending the life of them. I recommend the new ,Autopar ATF4 transmission oil, which is more expensive, but guaranteed to last for lifetime under normal driving conditions. Chrysler/Autopar products tend to work better with it, and new filter, although there are many mechanics that will argue that fact, there are just as many mechanics and owners who have seen other oils cause problems, and when they switch to Autopar, those problems disappeared.
Posted on Dec 11, 2009
Testimonial: "Thanks very much!!! I will have it checked out. I have just had a full service on the car and a new filter etc. installed. "
Tips for a great answer:
Jan 08, 2017 | 1999 Chrysler 300M
Oct 13, 2013 | 1999 Chrysler 300M
Nov 23, 2011 | 1999 Chrysler 300M
Nov 23, 2011 | 1999 Chrysler 300M
Feb 03, 2011 | 1999 Chrysler 300M
Apr 08, 2010 | 1999 Chrysler 300M
Sep 11, 2009 | 1999 Chrysler 300M
Jun 03, 2009 | 1999 Chrysler 300M
Apr 29, 2009 | 1999 Chrysler 300M
Apr 01, 2009 | 1999 Chrysler 300M
Jan 09, 2017 | 1999 Chrysler 300M
251 people viewed this question
Usually answered in minutes!
Step 2: Please assign your manual to a product: