Question about 1998 Ford Econoline

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Should my caliper slide back and forth a little after i installed the new 1?

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Posted on Aug 04, 2010


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Change front brake pads

fairly simple as far as brakes go.jack & secure car,there are 2 3/8'' allen bolts holding
caliper,remove bolts lift caliper off may need to pry it a little. using a C clamp you need to push back the caliper piston into caliper.when installing new pads its recemended to apply anti-squeal to the back of pads & lightly grease the caliper slides(where the caliper rest when installed)
reinstall mounting bolts & tire.
NOTE pump the brake pedal a few times before you move car so the piston reseats

good luck

Jun 13, 2011 | 1991 Chevrolet Lumina

2 Answers

Have a 98 troopy suffering from brake drag is only happening to front brakes i think as the front hubs get hot. only happens intermittenly. driving down the road it happens and the car struggles to get...

Hi:) Sound like the brake pad need to be taken out and the caliper need to be wire brushed to clean them and anti-seize greased be for you put them back together they get road dirt on them and don't work after a few years.

Mar 06, 2011 | 1998 Toyota Land Cruiser

1 Answer

How can I change the rotors and brakes on a 2006 Cadillac?

Front brake
Step 1: Identify Front Disc Brake Components
Front Wheel Drive Brake Assembly
Most front disc brake components include: brake rotor, brake pads, brake caliper, caliper mount and brake flex hose. Brake service usual occurs between 20,000 and 40,000 miles depending on driver habits, road conditions and brake pad/ rotor materials used.
Step 2: Remove Brake Caliper to Replace Pads
Removing Brake Caliper Mounting Bolts
Locate primary caliper mounting bolts; apply wrench pressure counter-clockwise (When looking at the head of the bolt) to remove the bolts, upper and lower. Make sure the bolt threads are in good shape and replace if necessary.
Step 3: Remove Front Brake Caliper
Remove Front Brake Caliper
After removing the primary caliper mounting bolts lift the brake caliper off of the rotor and then tie or secure to the side, being careful not to bend or kink the brake caliper flex hose. Thoroughly inspect brake caliper and brake hoses for leakage, cracks or chaffing and replace as needed. Next remove the brake pads (If not mounted in the caliper) and secondary caliper mounting bolts. Notice how great protective gloves work, most technicians use them on the job today.
Step 4: Remove Brake Pads
Remove Front Brake Pads
Once the brake pads have been removed, make sure if there is anti rattle hardware to transfer to the new brake pads. Some brake pad manufacturers will include the proper lube (Caliper slides) and anti-rattle hardware to ensure proper performance of their product.
Step 5: Remove Caliper Mount
Remove Caliper Mount Bracket
Finish removing secondary caliper mount bolts and remove caliper mount. Note: clean and lube caliper slides and pad friction surfaces of all foreign material or build-up.
Step 6: Remove Brake Rotor
Remove Brake Rotor
With the caliper mount out of the way you can now remove the brake rotor. Sometimes it can get stuck so you may need to tap it with a hammer or use penetrating oil to free it up. Some manufacturers use small screws to hold the rotor on as well. Clean and inspect wheel studs, replace if any are damaged. Also clean bearing hub rotor mount surface to ensure the proper mounting of the new brake rotor. Inspect the ABS sensor wheel for cracks or damage and replace as needed.
Step 7: Depressing the Brake Caliper
Resetting Brake Caliper
To install the new brake pads you must retract the brake caliper piston. Remove the master cylinder lid or open the brake caliper bleeder screw to allow excess brake fluid to be released if necessary. Install C clamp tool and gently tighten clamp until caliper piston is fully depressed. Note: use old brake pad to protect the caliper piston. Close the bleeders once the piston is retracted completely
Step 8: Installing New Brake Rotor
Install Brake Rotor
Install new brake rotor, the new rotor is manufactured with a protective film over the rotor to keep it from rusting, remove protective film with brake cleaner before installing; also after the brake job is complete you may experience a small amount of smoke from the rotor when first used. This is normal and will go away after the first couple of uses.
Step 9: Installing New Front Brake Pads
Installing New Brake Pads
Reinstall the front brake caliper mount, and then install front brake pads. Make sure the pads are seated properly in the caliper mount; it must be a close fit to work properly..
Step 10: Reinstall Front Brake Caliper
Re-Install front Bake Caliper
Reinstall front brake caliper and reinstall caliper-mounting bolts, recheck all mounts and mounting bolts. Check the caliper slides to be sure there is no bind and that the caliper moves freely back and forth on the caliper slides. Bleed brake system per manufacturer's specifications to relieve any air trapped in the system. Before driving the vehicle, push the brake pedal down and let it up slowly, repeat until normal brake pedal operation resumes, this operation is forcing the brake pads to travel to the brake rotors.

Dec 18, 2010 | 2006 Cadillac STS

1 Answer

Procedure for front wheel bearing (hub assembly) replacement

jack up vehicle wheel in question and install jack stand.remove wheel. Unbolt 2 caliper bracket bolts and pry caliper assembly up off brake rotor and hang off to the side with bungee.remove rotor . remove large axle nut. From the back of the hub remove hub bolts most commonly 15mm.Using a slide hammer style wheel puller the hub can be removed. if all you have is a big hammer hit the hub back and forth side to side until it can be removed. Bolt in new hub assembly and torque bolts.Install axle nut and torque. install rotor and caliper. reinstall wheel and torque.

Nov 28, 2010 | 2001 Chrysler Concorde

1 Answer

Replaced rear brake pads and now there is a burnt rubber smell. Brakes getting really hot and smoking

it is really common for the rear caliper slides to become stiff or frozen. The caliper should slide back and forth with little effort. If it doesn't than make sure the slides are free and lubricated.

If you had a difficult time installing the new pads into the bracket than that could also be the problem. The pads should fit into the bracket with little effort and feel loose once installed. If they don't than remove the shims and clean the rust from under them. Then reinstall the shims and see if the pads slide a little easier in the brackets.

Lastly make sure you didn't pinch or twist the rubber brake hoses.

Another thought is to remove the caliper from the bracket and try to spin the rotor/hub by hand. Maybe the e-brake shoes are causing the problem?

I’m happy to assist further over the phone at

Nov 27, 2010 | 2000 GMC Jimmy

1 Answer

Right side rear brake drags

Remove all rust from pad and caliper sliding surfaces,eg metal to metal,not the pins,they get synthetic brake lube. Apply anti-seize to all sliding surfaces. Make sure you can screw in the rear caliper piston,if applicable, and manually ratchet up the parking brake,after caliper and pads are on. Bleed/Flush all 4 Wheels. Make sure you can slide the pads back and forth,before lubing end tabs. You may need to file a little off the ends or just remove the paint. Make sure parking brake cables are really releasing.

Mar 12, 2010 | 2001 Mitsubishi Montero Sport 4WD

1 Answer

How do you replace front rotors on a 02 Ford Explorer 4x4

You will need a large C-clamp, a small block of wood, and a set of bigger allen wrenches
Remove the tire.
You will see a brake caliper assembly. This is what your brake pads are mounted to. The rotor spins in between your pads. There are two allen head bolts holding the caliper assembly to the mounts. You get to them from the back side of the assembly, so you'll have to put your head back into the fender-well to see them (I just feel around for them). There will be one close to the top and one close to the bottom of the assembly. You'll need a set of larger allen head wrenches, I think it is around a 1/4 inch or so. Try different sizes until you find the one that fits. Now is the hard part. You have to break the bolts loose and normally they are on pretty good. You can use a closed end box wrench or a piece of pipe to get better leverage on the allen wrench. I've even used a hammer to break em loose. And remember, the bolts are going towards you so you want to go the opposite of what you think. Go right to loosen ant left to tighten (from your point of view, outside the fender-well). Once you have both bolts out, pivot the top of the caliper back until the top clears the rotor, then slide the entire thing, pads and all, up. You now have the caliper assembly off. The brake line is still attached so you'll have to set it out of the way or use a zip tie to hang it up until you are done. I don't recommend just letting it hang by the brake line. Now you are looking at the rotor. It has 5 lugs coming through it. Some just pop off and others take a little gentle persuasion. Either way, you want to pull the rotor toward you and off of the hub. You can do this by putting presure on one side and then the other, then working back and forth like this until it comes off. Be careful if you are using any "tools" to do this. If you are going to be prying, be sure not to use a weak point to pry against, you don't want to bend anything. Now you rotor is off. Celebrate a little, not to much. Now clean your new rotor, really good, with brake cleaner (from a spray can). Once it is clean, put it in the old rotors place. Just line up the holes and push it in place. Because the new rotor is not encrusted with brake dust, it will hang loosely in place until the caliper assembly is installed over top of it. Now, because your new rotor is slightly thicker than the old worn one, you may need to open the pads a little so the caliper assembly will fit over the top of the rotor. Test the fit first. If you can not get the caliper back over the rotor you will need to spread the pads out a little. This is where you need the C-Clamp and block of wood. Take the outside pad off by pushing it to the inside of the caliper assembly. Once in the middle it will lift out (this would be a great time to slap on a pair of new pads, just replace the old with new before going on). Place the wood against the pad that is facing you. Open the clamp large enough to get on top of the wood block and around the back of the caliper. Now tighten the clamp until you feel a slight pressure. Stop. You need to go very slow at this point. Turn the clamp a 1/4 to 1/2 turn at a time. Let the caliper move back a second or two and repeat. You are pushing the caliper open. Do this until you open the caliper at least a 1/2 inch. Note: This causes the brake fluid level to rise inside the master cylinder resevoire. You will need to remove a tablespoon or so, so your fluid level does not overflow. Especially when doing the second side. Just watch to see if removing fluid is neccessary as you go. If not, great. Now that the caliper is pushed open take the clamp and block of wood out. Now put the pad you removed earlier back in its place. Make sure it moves back and forth. Open everything as wide as it will go. Now when you put the caliper assembly over the rotor it should slide into place, even if it is a bit snug. Be sure to hold the rotor tight to the hub when sliding the caliper in place. Everything has to be square for this to go back together. Replace the allen bolts, be sure they are tight. Replace the wheel. Your done. Do one side then the other. Watch your brake fluid level throughout the process. When both sides are done double check the fluid level one last time. Adjust as neccessary. Enjoy, you just saved yourself around 600.00 (if you went with the new brake pads). Rotors are around 30 to 50 dollars each at Advance Auto or Auto Zone. Pads are about 30 - 50 dollars per set (enough for both wheels).

Sep 01, 2009 | 2002 Ford Explorer

1 Answer

How to replace the front brake pads

    Calipers With Guide Pins
  1. Step 1 Disconnect the negative battery cable from the battery. Remove the wheel. Using an open wrench hold the lower guide pin. Remove the bolt that secures the caliper.
  2. Step 2 Pivot the caliper up and then suspend it from the frame using mechanic's wire. To remove the pads, slide the pads straight out.
  3. Step 3 Using a C-clamp, compress the caliper piston into the bore. Insert the new pads by removing the mechanics wire and pivoting the caliper back into it's place.
  4. Step 4 Clean the old bolt and apply thread locking compound. If the old bolt can not be used install a new bolt. Hold the guide pin using a back-up wrench when tightening the bolt. Using a torque wrench, torque the bolt to 26 foot/pounds. Install the wheels. Add oil to the master cylinder reservoir. Reconnect the negative battery cable to the battery.
    Calipers With Sleeves and Bushings
  5. Step 1 Disconnect the negative battery cable from the battery. Remove the wheel. Remove the bolt that secures the caliper to the carrier.
  6. Step 2 Push the caliper up and pivot the caliper bottom out of the carrier. Remove the pads and the anti-rattle springs.
  7. Step 3 Install the new pads by putting the anti-squeal pads onto the caliper and then sliding the new pads onto the carrier. Put the caliper top back into place. Remove the mechanics wire and push the caliper up so that it pivots back into place and the bottom.
  8. Step 4 Clean the caliper mounting bolts. Install the caliper mounting bolts and using a torque wrench, torque the bolts to 18 foot/pounds. Install the wheel. Add oil to the master cylinder reservoir. Reconnect the negative battery cable to the battery.

Jul 09, 2009 | 2006 Volkswagen Jetta

1 Answer

Rear brakes overheating

Just a backyard mechanic myself, so we both know that the calipers float around on the bolts that hold them on. I know if the bolts dont slide in easyley they should be cleaned up with fine grit sand paper and a thin film of grease on them. Pry your shoes back and see if your caliper slides back and forth easyley. The calipers have to slide back and forth (float) or the pads will get hot and wear out prematurely. Let me know how this turns out.

Oct 27, 2008 | 2007 Volkswagen Jetta 2.5 Sedan

1 Answer

1986 Ford Bronco front calipar replacement instructions

Detailed? OK...

First take off the wheel and set aside. Then, look for the two pins that hold the caliper on; there is one on the top and one on bottom. They are made of tow peices that can be squeezed together at the end and then pushed out the back or front. The caliper may need a little encouragement to come off of the rotor especially so with lots of mileage. Take note of how the pads are installed and which pad goes on which side so you can put the new ones in correctly. The pads can be a little tricky to get back in, but if you take your time and go carefully you won't have a problem. Take a wrech/socket and unscrew the bolt holding on the breakline fitting. It is a banjo fitting that will have a washer on the top and bottom to seal it. Your new caliper may or may not have a fitting with it, just reuse the fitting and washers if not. Wipe down the rotor with some brake clean and measure it to ensure it's not too thin; there should be a measurement stamped on the rotor that's not to be exceeded. If it's good then just slide the caliper w'pads installed back on the rotor. Take a dab of brake grease and rub on the two caliper pins to help the caliper slide back and forth. The just push back into place with a little help from a mallet. Doulbe check you got everything put back on in the right place and then put the wheel back on and torq accordingly.

Aug 14, 2008 | 1986 Ford Bronco II

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