Question about 1999 Chevrolet Cavalier

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I changed the rear brakes in my 1999 cavalier, and since, every time I push the brakes, the ABS engages all the time, so I disconnected it to see if it is the ABS, but the problem remained: that is, when I push the brakes (without the ABS), the rear wheels stop very hard, sometimes one of them does and the car slides to the right or to the left. I tried several times to adjust (loosen) the rear brakes, but 2 days later, the problem returns back. I took it to the mechanic: after he checked it, he said, change the rear right sensor and adjust the brakes. I did, but the problem remained! I reconnected the ABS, but unfortunately, the light is now on and it does not engage anymore: it is as if only the conventional brakes function (with the same problem: rear wheels stop hard - or one of them does - when I push the brakes). Could it be the pistons (master cylinders)? How to make the ABS function again? Many thanks, Freddy. fnouneh@yahoo.com

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6 Suggested Answers

6ya6ya
  • 2 Answers

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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

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autodr
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SOURCE: 2000 Blazer ABS engaging

what about the drivers side? and does it have a removeable wheel speed sensor from the wheel hub? if so, maybe broken exciter ring on axle shaft on one of the front axles

Posted on Dec 09, 2008

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  • 55 Answers

SOURCE: Abs & Brake light on.

I have found that the wheel sensors for the abs system get very dirty and cause the abs warning light to come on. You can try to clean them if you have the tools to take them off but usually you just want to replace them.

Your brake warning light and your rear braking problem may be caused by the same problem,
the cable sticking. Good luck!

Posted on Dec 30, 2008

  • 4 Answers

SOURCE: 1999 Cavalier rear brakes engage

you have to change the rear to the front line on your master cause of the proportioning valve is not on the good wheel

Posted on Feb 28, 2009

airjoc
  • 709 Answers

SOURCE: 1994 Cavalier -replaced master cylinder-no pressure to rear brake

The most common bleeding procedure is to bleed the ABS brake furthest from the master cylinder first, then bleed the other brake that shares the same hydraulic circuit (which may be the other rear brake on a rear-wheel drive car, or the opposite front brake on a front-wheel drive car or minivan). After these have been bled, you then bleed the other brake circuit starting with the furthest brake from the master cylinder.
Air can be very difficult to remove from an ABS modulator assembly because of all the nooks and crannies inside the unit. The modulator may have eight to 10, or more, ABS/traction control solenoid valves, plus various check valves and dead-end ports. Some ABS modulators have special bleed screws to help you vent the trapped air when bleeding the system. Others do not and require the use of a scan tool to cycle the ABS solenoids while you bleed the system. 1. To bleed the isolation valves in the modulator, there are two bleeder screws. Start with the one toward the engine. Turn the ignition on and apply light pressure on the brake pedal. Open the bleeder screw and allow the fluid to flow until clear. Close the screw and do the same at the second bleeder screw. 2. Depressurize the accumulator by pumping the pedal 40 times with the key off. Wait about two minutes for the brake fluid to de-aerate, then refill the fluid reservoir with DOT 3 brake fluid. 3. Now you can bleed the boost section. This is done by applying moderate pressure on the brake pedal and turning the ignition on for three seconds, then off. Repeat this a total of 10 times. Make sure the pedal feels firm when you have finished, and give the car a road test to make sure the brakes are working properly.

Posted on Jul 25, 2009

  • 19 Answers

SOURCE: Spongy brake pedal even after ABS bleed and base brake bleed.

Did you adjust the rear shoes out? If the rear drum brakes are out of adjustment they will give you a lot of pedal travel. If the pads are worn have no fear of that U-CLIP brake spring, just change one shoe at a time. Take the spring off one side, change the shoe, put the spring back on the post and do the same to the other shoe, no problem.

Posted on Dec 19, 2009

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1 Answer

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There is probably an air bubble in there.
Get a partner to push on the pedal as you simultaneously open up the bleeder screw.

One shouldn't have to use the abs brake bleeding procedure if no air got into the abs braking master cylinder area.

Keep trying to manually bleed the air out of the brake line. May have to tilt the car backwards to get the fluid to drip out by itself,
although air in the line can sometimes be difficult to get out after changing the rear brake line.

Good luck on this repair.

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please go to the web link for tutorial of the job from start to finish.

http://www.wikihow.com/Replace-Drum-Brakes

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You don't say what brakes.

I have had many cavys and worked on them. Great cars.

Your problem sounds like a **** rear wheel cylinder and bad drums/rotors and abs sensor wire.

My car just did everything you describe, I put in new wheel cylinders, drums, brakes, rotors, and 2 new rear brake lines. For less than 200 bucks the car is like new again and has well over 100k.

You can do it yourself. Doesn't take special tools. I followed online how-to's.

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Abs & Brake light on.


I have found that the wheel sensors for the abs system get very dirty and cause the abs warning light to come on. You can try to clean them if you have the tools to take them off but usually you just want to replace them.

Your brake warning light and your rear braking problem may be caused by the same problem,
the cable sticking. Good luck!

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1999 Cavalier rear brakes engage and lock up before front brakes engage. Any ideas?


you have to change the rear to the front line on your master cause of the proportioning valve is not on the good wheel

Jul 15, 2008 | 1997 Chevrolet Cavalier

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