Question about 1997 GMC Jimmy

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I have a 2005 GMC Duramax crew cab. I had the pitman arm, idler arm and the inner tie rod ends replaced in July 2009 when I purchased a set of new tires. Now, a year later, I had another shop advise me that idler arm is loose. Quote is $526.00.... OUCH! It is hard whether I was screwed the first time or yet to be with the current quote. Can anyone tell me whether these parts and subsequent repair are that problematic...even after 12 months? Thank you, Nels

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  • GMC Master
  • 2,166 Answers

Try formulating the question better as you are jumping from 2009 to 2010 for a year later then asking for an answer 7 years after

Posted on Jun 14, 2017

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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

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SOURCE: Need pitman arm replaced and idler arm replaced

The idler isn't bad, Remove cotter pin going through the nut, take off nut, you need a seperator tool to pull apart the arm from the center link, once that is done, remove the two bolts holding it to the frame, remove arm, installation is just reverse.
The pitman arm is a little more to it. Do the same, remove cotter pin, take off nut, and seperate it from the rod, now there is big nut holding it on to the bottom of the steering box, take that nut off (some are a real pain), you will need a pitman arm puller to get it off. Note the position of the arm, need to put new one in same place, pull it off slow, sometimes seals will come with it, put seals back in same way, if they come out. Put some grease on splined shaft, tap new arm on until you can get nut on, tighten up with nut. Hopefully you have any problems. Good luck.

Posted on Mar 24, 2009

  • 61 Answers

SOURCE: replace idler arm/pitman arm

Don't worry it is not too hard if you keep at. One "special tool" that you will need is a ball joint separator to separate the ball joint on the idler arm from the steering. When changing make sure to compare your replacement parts with the original and if necessary make a diagram of how things go together. On the bottom, there is a castle nut and a cotter pin. Remove the pin and loosen the nut then use the ball joint separator to remove the idler arm. (This is the hardest part of the job.) Then remove the remaining bolts and take the part off. Before putting the new idler arm make sure that you put the new grease fitting on it (and go ahead and squirt a little grease in it even though it already has some) and in between the new ball joint and the steering there should be a plastic bearing that slips into place. It's a pretty straight forward job and once you take a good look at it you will see what all needs to be done. Hope this helps, let me know how it goes. Goodluck!

Posted on May 05, 2009

SOURCE: Had the Pitman arm and idler Arm replaced

I have had both the Pitman and Idler Arms,seize almost the same day, on a veh still under warrantee.
I have also replaced many over 45 years,just as general maintenance,before they caused,tire wear or worse. So no big deal!

The other issues will be solved,most likely, by removing the steering wheel and replacing the Clock Spring. Then the air bag will be happy and your wheel buttons,computer and radio, can once again,communicate and work properly.

Follow the proper proceedure in disarming the air bag,so you don't get hurt!!

Posted on Mar 27, 2010

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  • 2309 Answers

SOURCE: idler arm LF,idler bracket LF,pitman arm LF,tie

you will need a pitman arm puller, tie rod separator and a good set sockets(6 point preffered)and some penetrating oil, measure all distances between points before removal,and get the vehicle aligned

Posted on Dec 01, 2010

johnjnail
  • 1702 Answers

SOURCE: Need the torque specs for the nuts on the pitman

pit man arm to steering gear nut 186 ft lbs.

pit man arm to relay rod nut 46 ft lbs.

idler arm to frame nut 73 ft lbs.

idler arm to relay rod nut 46 ft lbs.

Posted on May 08, 2011

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1 Answer

How many lubrication fittings are there on a 1999 Buick LaSabre?


if this has a conventional front end(not front wheel drive) then there will be one on each outer tie rod end one on each inner tie rod end, both upper and lower ball joints on each side, idler arm and pitman arm. if its front wheel drive it will have a rack and pinion steering. there for there will be one on each outer tie rod end and one on each lower ball joint, if they have grease fittings. so conventional steering has 10 fittings total and rack and pinion has 4 total.

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I need to replace inner and outer tie rods and Idler arms. Is there a diagram?


The inner and outer tie rods are pretty self explanatory remove the nut from the knuckle. Whack the knuckle a couple times where the tie rod goes through and the tie rod will pop out. The inner will releas the same way. Get the sleeve whe you get the inner and outer tie rod. It will make life a lot easier. Assemble the new parts to the approximate same length as the parts you removed and install. The idler arm will be bolted to the frame and then have a ball and socket that will be removed in the same manner as the tie rod end. The pitman arm will require a puller to seperate it from the gear box. Sometimes you have to heat up the end that attaches to the gear box to get them to pop. Sometimes the gear box needs to be removed in order to get the puller on the pitman arm. Lower and upper ball joints are also very common on these. If they have not been done I would have them checked as well.

Aug 07, 2012 | 2000 Chevrolet Blazer

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Need the torque specs for the nuts on the pitman arm stud and the idler arm stud (nuts that hold the linkage on the studs) for a 2003 sierra 1500HD, 4wd, 6.0L, crew cab


pit man arm to steering gear nut 186 ft lbs.

pit man arm to relay rod nut 46 ft lbs.

idler arm to frame nut 73 ft lbs.

idler arm to relay rod nut 46 ft lbs.

May 08, 2011 | 2002 GMC Sierra 1500HD

1 Answer

Idler arm LF,idler bracket LF,pitman arm LF,tie rod sleeve LF, inner tie rod LF, tie rod end LF, need to repair


you will need a pitman arm puller, tie rod separator and a good set sockets(6 point preffered)and some penetrating oil, measure all distances between points before removal,and get the vehicle aligned

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My 94 Silverado pulls very hard to the right, and is eating up my front left tire like nothing. what other than alignment can be going wrong?


You could have a bad tie rod end, Idler arm, pitman arm, wheel bearing or ball joint. All of these will normally cause a vibration also. Check by jacking the front end one side at a time and moving the tire back and forth on front and back and in and out on top and bottom. Either watch or have someone else watch the steering assembly for movement and where it is. If there is no unusual movement, it is more than likely an alignment problem or tire problem.

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1 Answer

Is a special tool required to remove inner tie rod from relay rod on 2001 Tahoe.? Also what should torque be?


Relay Rod Removal & Installation To Remove:
  1. Raise and support the vehicle
  2. Remove or disconnect the following:
    • Engine protection shield, if equipped
    • Steering damper from the relay rod, if equipped Note: Use the proper tool in order to separate all the tie rods and the ball joints.
      Steering components gm_trk_sub15_steering_components.gif

    • Tie rod ends (F) (See: Tie Rod Ends)
    • Idler arm ball stud nut (J) and discard the nut (See: Idler Arm)
    • Pitman arm nut (H) and discard the nut (See: Pitman Arm) Remove the idler arm from the relay rod gm_trk_sub15_idler_from_relay_rod.gif

    • Relay rod from the idler arm ball stud using the J24319-B or other suitable puller Remove relay rod from pitman arm ball stud gm_trk_sub15_relay_rod_rem.gif

    • Relay rod from the pitman arm ball stud using the J24319-B or other suitable puller
    • Relay rod from the vehicle
  3. Inspect the threads on the tie rod ends for damage
  4. Inspect the ball stud threads for damage
  5. Inspect the ball stud seals for excessive damage
  6. Clean the threads on the ball studs
To Install:
  1. Install or connect the following:
    • Relay rod to the vehicle
    • Relay rod to the pitman arm ball stud
    • Relay rod to the idler arm ball stud and make sure the seal is on the stud
    • New pitman arm prevailing torque nut
    • New idler arm prevailing torque nut and tighten the idler arm and pitman arm nuts; Torque to: 46 ft. lbs. (62 Nm)
    • Tie rod ends
    • Steering dampener to the relay rod, if equipped
    • Engine protection shield, if equipped
  2. Lower the vehicle
  3. Check the wheel alignment
  4. Test drive the vehicle to confirm the repairs
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Sep 18, 2010 | 2001 Chevrolet Tahoe

1 Answer

How to replace a idler arm and pitman arm need to replace it on my 98 gmc suburban 4x4


You will need the proper tools to remove them which can be rented at auto parts stores. The pitman arm has to pulled off with an pitman arm puller also have to drop steering box I believe to change it. I know we did on my 1996 Tahoe the idler arm can be seperated with a front end fork also available at parts store. You just drive it between the idler arm and tie rod after removing castle nut and cotter pen.

Jul 17, 2010 | 1998 GMC Suburban

1 Answer

How to change the pittman arm and idler arm on a 1999 S10 Chevy Blazer 4x4?


Pitman arm requires a pitman arm puller, and a tie rod seperator or "pickle fork". Remove the cotter pin on from the joint on the pitman arm and center link, then remove the nuts from both ends of pitman arm. Use the pitman arm puller to remove the pitman arm from the steering gear, then use the tie rod seperator to remove the end from the center link. Reinstall and retighten nuts, do not leave out the cotter pin.
Idler arm will require tie rod seperator. Remove the cotter pin from the end at the center link, use the tie rod seperator to seperate the joint there. Unbolt the idler arm from the frame, and remove. On reinstalling remember to install a new cotter pin. It would be best to have the front end alignment checked after replacing these parts.

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I have a 2004 Chevy 2500 HD 4x4 with a Duramax. I recently replaced the ball joints, inner and outer tie rods, idler arm and pitman arm and the sway bar links. Now when you turn the wheel left or right the...


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Repair steering linkage


You'll have to rent or borrow a pickle fork and a pitman arm puller. There is more than one size of pickle fork so specify for tie rod ends. You can buy them too, about $100 for the pair and they are not vehicle specific.
Jack and block up your front end so the wheels are clear. Take the nut off the tie rod end and wedge the pickle fork between the tie rod and the drag link, rap with a hammer until it separates. Loosen the bolt on the collar and unscrew the tie rod end. Count the turns when you remove it and screw the new one in the same number of turns.Fit it into the drag link and tighten the collar and the new nut.
Take the nut off the idler arm and use the pickle fork to separate it from the drag link. Unbolt the idler arm from the frame. The new one goes on in the reverse.
You'll probably need an adjustable wrench to remove the nut from the pitman arm,it's bigger than most wrench sets. Separate it from the drag link first. Slide the puller on and tighten it up. Once it starts to turn hard, give the bolt on the puller a rap with the hammer and tighten some more. Repeat until the arm comes off. Slip the new one on and tighten.
Don't be shy when you tighten these parts because if there is play, the holes in the drag link will oval out and you will have to replace it too. Don,t use a pickle fork on the pitman arm or you will have to replace the seal in the bottom of the steering box. Hope this helps.

Jul 08, 2009 | 2001 Chevrolet Silverado 1500

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