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Re: will not start
Hello there friend. sounds like your hitting your head against the wall. :)
engines only need a few things to run..your task is to determine what is missing...1, they need fuel, to checked this attach a fuel pressure guage to se if geting at least about 40psi (cant remember spec)..if you have fuel pressure, check for spark at spark plug...remove plug and attach wire to plug, grounding it out against engine block ..away from any engine wireing as it can send a voltage spike through system causing further damages...if you have fuel, and you have spark, you must then check to see if you have ai..compresion to be exacy..remove spark plug and crank engine over..see if you can hear air hufing in and out of cylinder..if you have a compression guage install it, your pressures shoudl be within 10% of each other across all cylidners. if not you may have an inernal engine failure..there are many more questions..when and why did it stop running, how was it running prior to failure, etc... is the engine oil saturated with fuel from leaking injectors? this could cause the rings to wash out and not build up compression...i hope thuis helps you out...
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check for spark at the plugs then check for fuel. if one of these are missing the car won`t start. common problem on some of these was the ignition module in the distributor and sometimes the pickup coil wires would break. another thing to check is the distributor cap and rotor for damage like a cracked cap or burnt through rotor. fuel pump were also common.
Nephew had similar problem on different vehicle - had spark to plugs, limited gas, everthing else checked. I did one thing first - check for two fuel filters - one in the tank was only screens and one in the line itself. Found a little in line filter just outside of engine compartment under car next to frame that looked like it had never been changed - partially clogged - replaced it.Almost ran but would not keep running. I had rotor and cap pulled - found that the screw holding rotor in place was loose. The rotor edge next to plug wire leads was chopped up and the cap's plug wire leads were heavily oxidized. Replaced them and got it running but a little rough. Pulled the spark plugs and found gaps from 25 - 100 ---replaced the plugs with correct gapping and it ran really well.
i have a 1994 gmc jimmy 4.3l cpi. i could not pass the emission test.hard to start, spuddered, and smell of gas was strong. long story short, i replaced my spider injectors, good to go. $278 brand new from auto zone.
check your ecm-ign fuse.if it is ok check to see if you have power to your spider injector.if you have power, you either have a bad computer or a bad connection between the computer and the inj.do you have spark??.if you have no spark check your ign module or bad connection at the ign module.i have seen that before.
Well, Spark Plugs wear over time,seldom fail to fire
A worn or dirty rotor and cap will still fire, also
You never throw new wires at it,I don't,mine last 18 years,
on all vehicles
You need some OBD2 knowledge,start studying
The PO302,last # is the cylinder
Number 2 is misfiring
If you got individual coils, go there
If you got an ignition module, for all the cyl,go there
If you got plug wires,there is an extremely odd chance, one burned out inside ,on #2
& you did say your have a dist cap.
So you do have a cylinder monitor,that detected it
That may be the crank sensor,another possible
The choke on your vehicle is a computer controled fuel system. It is usually a fuel pump but sometimes a Distributor cap and rotor problem. I would first check the distributor cap and rotor. Look for white corrosion in the cap and in the bottom of the distributor. If you see the corrosion in the bottom of the distributor clean it out with brake cleaner.The Coil wire some times fails causing a hard start situation. I suggest checking these things before doing any thing with the fuel pump. I would also replace the fuel filter and spark plugs if you do end up replacing the cap and rotor.
try the oil pressure switch, that was a common problem on Gm trucks when I used to work on them, the oils switch was bad and woulden't allow it to start and the ones I worked on were on the back of the distributor.