Question about 1999 Jeep Cherokee
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
At least you have the 4 liter 6. Once you get all the **** out of the way its like replacing a W/P on an "old school" engine, very much like a Ford or Chevy straight 6. 1) Remove radiator top retainer (the metal U that looks like its the top of the radiator (#13 or 14mm sockets I think). 2) To completely get if off you also have to remove the grill (4-6 phillips screws), then 3) unbolt it from the tubular bumper retainers underneath the grill. 4) DO NOT remove the latch cable - no need. 5) Remove the top bolts holding down the fan shroud. Lift the shroud off its bottom "tabs" and push over the fan. 6) Using #10mm socket remove fan from fan clutch, then remove bolts holding fan clutch onto water pump pulley. 7) Pull out shroud, then fan, then fan clutch. Be very patient, lots of wiggling may be needed. 8) Locate belt tensioner on idler puller below the Power steering pump. Losen very little the pulleys center bolt (10mm), then use a 10mm w/entension to losen the pulley's tension (use counter clockwise/normal rotation to losen). 9) Draw a diagram of the belt routing - you will Never remember it correctly otherwise. 10) Tap the w/p pully and pull if off - do not hit radiator fins! 11) Drain the radiator (clockwise/right rotation opens petoc from factory radiators - counterclock used on aftermaket rads). 12) Remove lower raditor hose at radiator, then at pump (it will be a challenge). 13) Remove upper radiator hose from rad and from thermostat housing. 14) losen the Rubber heater hose from the metal hose screwed into the W/P. 15) Remove 4 bolts from W/P (13 or 14mm I think). The one at the 4oclock position is longer than the others. One is hidden at 6oclock.
16) Remove 2 bolts (14-15mm??) on bottom of Power Steering mount - these go through the W/P case to the block. You may also need to losen the top PS bolts so the PS Bracket can be loose at the W/P case. 17) Wiggle the W/P out from under the PS bracket. and pull off. (16b if needed, remove the upper idler pulley near the A/C unit.) 18) Remove the Thermostat (upper hose return) housing. Scrape off old gasket. Replace with 160deg or 190deg thermostat. Use silicone on gasket. 19) Carefully use a 17 or 19mm box wrench to remove the metal heater hose return line from the upper part of the old water pump. Coat threads with spark plug thread antiseize and screw onto new W/P. 20) Install new W/P gasket w/silcone, be careful to Not block the water holes. 21) Slide W/P under the P/S bracket and jiggle into place. Hand thread one of the top bolts to hold the W/P in place. 22) Insert the P/S bracket bolts and lightly tighten. 23) Jiggle W/P around and insert other bolts, start with the 6oc hidden bolt. Add remaining bolts and tighten to 25 or 250?ftlb (about 3/4 past socket-snug). 24) Tighten ALL P/S bolts. 25) Adjust metal heater pipe. Reinstall rubber heater hose. 26) Reinstall W/P pulley and Fan clutch, and upper idler if it was removed. 27) Thread NEW Belt on pulleys. 28) Tighten tension on idler. Tighten idler axle bolt. 29) Install lower rad hose. 30) Slide shroud over pulleys. 31) Install fan on clutch. 32) Clip shroud retainer bolt mounts back on top of radiator. 33) Install shroud. 34) Connect upper hose. 35) Reinstall radiator retainer. 36) Bolt retainer to Tubular bumper mounts. 37) Reinstall grill. 38) Wonder where the extra bolts etc are supposed to go. 39) Cuss - pray -cuss - pray. 40 ) sip some beer. 41) carefully inspect everything to ensure its back to the way it looked before (several pictures from a digital camera taken during the disassembly will help). 42) Close the rad petok. 43) Add 1 gallons of antifreeze. 44) Start engine and add another gallon of A/F. 45) Turn heater controls to HOT inside (no need for fan). 46) Water guage should show 180 to 210F. 47) Add 1 gallon of water. 48) Install New 18PSI rad cap. 49) Turn off engine and add water or A/F to overflow tank. 50) 1 hour later open Cap to see if level has settled. Add Water as needed to fill rad.
Posted on Dec 31, 2008
If you have the owner's manual look up fuses in the index, good illustration. If you don't, I do. It shows a relay and a 15 amp fuse. Look at the passenger kick panel, pull the cover, and it is #2 fuse (second from the top on the left) The see the relay you may have to pull the panel (two screws and a clip) the relay is the third cavity down, third row from the firewal side.
Let me know if this works for you?
Posted on Apr 03, 2009
I don't think the PCM is your problem, is the check engine light on? It could be you idle air control motor this is located on the throttle body, but because this happens while driving I am thinking you will need to replace your crank shaft position sensor it is located on the transmissinon bell housing it is very hard to replace without the correct tools. If the check engine light is on take it to a local auto parts store and ask if they can check the check engine codes for you they usally will do this for free.
Posted on Jun 03, 2009
try disconnecting the NEGATIVE cable on the battery for 10-20 minutes. re-connect it. start the vehicle and drive it for a few miles to let the pcm reset. (make sure the key is off and out, just to make sure you don't fry something when you remove the negative-black wire cable!!). don't short it against the positive-red!
make sure the negative connector (on the cable) is isolated from the frame, or it will still be grounded! wrap some plastic around it, or something!
Posted on Sep 22, 2009
pic REMOVAL - 4.7L
The Camshaft Position Sensor (CMP) on the 4.7L V–8 engine is bolted to the front/top of the right cylinder head (CMP Location—4.7L Engine).
It is easier to remove/install sensor from under vehicle.
Raise and support vehicle.
Disconnect electrical connector at CMP sensor (CMP Location—4.7L Engine).
Remove sensor mounting bolt (CMP Location—4.7L Engine).
Carefully twist sensor from cylinder head.
Check condition of sensor o-ring.
See picture for sensor location.
Posted on Jul 21, 2010
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