Question about 1992 Ford F350

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When I start the truck, brake pedal goes down on it's own and will not come back up unless you pull it up , Booster?

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  • Master
  • 447 Answers

It's possible that it's the booster. A quick test is to remove the large vacuum line that hooks to the front/side of the booster, have someone plug the end of the vacuum line temporarily, and start the vehicle [in park]. If the pedal remains where it should but then gets pulled down when you reattach the booster vacuum hose then there's a problem inside the booster somewhere. Don't try and drive it in this condition as it's not safe to do so. I've put in several used and new vacuum boosters over the years so although they are generally very dependable they certainly can fail.

Posted on Aug 03, 2010

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  • Ford Master
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The booster is working properly if the pedal goes down a little when starting the truck. Seems more like it's a master cylinder problem if it won't pump up.

REMOVAL & INSTALLATION Fig. 1: Disconnect the warning indicator at the master cylinder When I start the truck, - 88289p00.jpg
Fig. 2: Remove the fluid to minimize the amount that would otherwise inevitably be spilled 88289p01.jpg
Fig. 3: Unscrew the line fittings at the master cylinder 88289p02.jpg
Fig. 4: Hold a rag under the fittings to keep fluid from dripping alWhen I start the truck, - 88289p03.jpgs 88289p03.jpg
Fig. 5: Unbolt theWhen I start the truck, - 88289p04.jpgnder from the brake booster 88289p04.jpg
Fig. 6: Remove thWhen I start the truck, - 88289p05.jpginder from the vehicle and set it in a clean location 88289p05.jpg

  1. Disconnect the negative battery cable.
  2. Apply the brake pedal several times to exhaust all the vacuum in the system.
  3. Detach and cap the brake lines from the master cylinder.
  4. If equipped, detach the brake warning indicator connector. NOTE: A turkey baster (tapered tube with a squeeze ball on top) works well for removing fluid from the reservoir (see photo).
  5. Siphon off the fluid from the master cylinder reservoir to minimize spillage when lines are disconnected.
  6. If applicable, disconnect and cap the Hydraulic Control Unit (HCU) supply hose at the master cylinder reservoir and secure in a position to prevent loss of fluid.
  7. Unfasten the 2 nuts and lockwashers that attach the master cylinder to the brake booster.
  8. Remove the master cylinder from the booster by sliding it forward and upward from the vehicle. To install:
  9. Install a new seal in the groove in the master cylinder mounting face.
  10. Position the master cylinder assembly over the booster pushrod and onto the 2 studs on the booster assembly.
  11. Install the retaining nuts, then tighten to 18–25 ft. lbs. (24–34 Nm).
  12. Uncap and connect the brake lines to the master cylinder. Tighten the front fitting to 16–21 ft. lbs. (21–29 Nm), and the rear fitting to 10–15 ft. lbs. (15–20 Nm).
  13. Uncap and connect the HCU hose to the master cylinder reservoir fitting and secure with a hose clamp.
  14. If equipped, connect the brake warning indicator.
  15. Fill the master cylinder with Heavy Duty Brake Fluid C6AZ-19542-AA or equivalent DOT 3 brake fluid from a clean, sealed container. Bleed the entire brake system, as outlined in this section.
  16. Connect the negative battery cable.
  17. Operate the brake several times, then check for external hydraulic leaks.
  18. When I start the truck, - prev.gifa rel='nofollow' href="http://arrc.epnet.com/autoapp/8828/8828R09_Height_Sensing_Proportioning_Val.htm">prev.gif next.gif

Posted on Aug 03, 2010

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You can verify this by pulling the vacuum hose off the brake booster and plugging the hose, then starting the car and seeing if brake pedal operation is normal. **do not drive like this you will have no brake power assist**

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