Question about 1995 Toyota 4Runner

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Brake pedal got really hard while sitting at a light with engine running. Without having any work done on the brakes within the last 8 months and not having any previous problems with the brakes on a 1995 Toyota 4Runner. What could be the problem?

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6ya6ya
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

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  • 1861 Answers

SOURCE: front brake rotors 1995 toyota 4runner

If you have 6 bolts going around the center (manual lock in/lock out) hub, you are going to be there a while. The center hub needs to come off, and ALL of the internal wheel bearings need to come out. The whole locking hub must be removed in order get the rotor off. This is NOT an easy job, and you need a special tool to loosen/tightem the wheel bearings. Figure 2 hrs per side if you have all of the proper tools & skill level.

Posted on Sep 29, 2008

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chazman05
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SOURCE: unable to locate spark plugs on a 1995 toyota 4 runner

They are probably under some piece of plastic. All cars have them so just be patient and keep looking.

Posted on Dec 11, 2008

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SOURCE: 2008 Toyota Tacoma Excessive brake pedal

Your dealer is not lying to you.
All of the Toyota product line with ABS has this phenomenon. What Toyota has done is incorporate "Brake Force Distribution" into the braking system. What that means is there is now a sensor on the brake pedal/brake rod, going to the master cylinder. The sensor measures how FAST you press on the brake pedal. This activates the ABS pump, and supplies more brake fluid, harder, to reduce the time needed, such as a "panic stop"; the pedal travel is much longer than you are used to, because of the way they have to measure the speed of the rod being depressed. In actuality, this system is much better than the old system, as it also prevents wheel drag. It just takes a while to get used to. Really, there is nothing to worry about, I explain this same thing to my customers every week.

I hope this helps you out.

Thanks for choosing FixYa for assistance.

Posted on Mar 05, 2009

ifranjan
  • 23 Answers

SOURCE: 2003 Toyota 4Runner Hard to steer after sitting for 6 weeks

check if enough oli,if alright its ur steering box

Posted on Oct 03, 2009

  • 40 Answers

SOURCE: No brakes

1st. Did you bleed the Master cylinder BEFORE you installed the
Master on the booster?
You, need to bleed it on the bench. or you'll pump air into the intire
system.if you tryed to bleed at the wheels.The only thing you can
do now is JUST bleed bleed bleed to get all the air out.
NOW, If you bought a rebuilt master there are a few that, shoulden't
have been rebuilt their just no good even after the rebuild.
Be sure you got all the air out. and if the problem is still there
the master is NO GOOD.

Posted on Apr 12, 2010

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1 Answer

Key programing toyota 2002


No need to panic rush through this procedure, just do it right. Haste makes waste.

1. Simultaneously depress and release brake and accelerator pedals 1 time.

2. Insert an original Master Key into the ignition but do not turn it.

3. Within 15 seconds depress and release accelerator pedal 5 times.

4. Within 20 seconds depress and release the brake pedal 6 times and remove key.

5. Within 10 seconds insert New Key into ignition but do not turn it.

6. Within 10 seconds depress and release the accelerator pedal 1 time.

7. Now sit and wait for about one minute until the security light in the center counsel stops blinking and turns off.

8. Remove new key and depress and release brake pedal 1 time.

9. Test your key now. It should work if you followed the instructions. If not, you may want to try the following instructions:

This procedure is for 2002 Camry and most other models in this year of Toyota. In the future always give the model as well as year and make. Thanks

Nov 06, 2016 | Toyota Cars & Trucks

1 Answer

Gud day.... ihave this fordf150 xlt. i have problem with my brakes as where it get stuck while running.... but then when i left it parked... the brakes got back to normal... but then it get stuck again...


Have you had work done on your truck's brakes recently? Are your brake lights on when you drive? That would indicate the brake pedal or stop light switch sticking. Another possibility is someone added mineral oil into your master cylinder instead of brake fluid. This would cause the internal seals to swell, locking up the brakes, though I can't say why they would unstick after you park it. This is a major problem if engine oil is put into your brake master cylinder!!! If you truck has drum brakes on the rear, they may be out of adjustment and drag enough to generate brake force, then when it sits, it cools down enough to be free. I really hope this helps. If you can provide some additional info, I may be able to point you in the right direction.

Feb 02, 2015 | Cars & Trucks

4 Answers

Why is it hard to push on the brakes


The most obvious cause for a hard pedal is simply not enough vacuum. Check the brake power booster by pumping on the brake pedal while the car isn't running. Continue pumping until you've "bled off" the vacuum from the booster. Hold the pedal down while you start the car. The pedal should go down a bit more beneath your foot. If it doesn't, then you should examine the connection between the vacuum hose of the brake power and the engine's vacuum.
Replace the brake power booster if the connection's fine, which would fix the hard brake pedal problem.

It may be your calipers need replaced. Check them for signs of wear. Look at the metal spring where the brake pads sit.
Apply tension to the pad and see whether you hear a pop. If you do, the brake pad is moving too much on the bracket. Replace the caliper. This could help the hard brake pedal.

Jul 09, 2014 | 2000 Isuzu Rodeo

2 Answers

I have aford F350 95 It is parked most of the year When I have gone to drive it the last few times the brake pedal is really hard and will go to the floor then bounce back pushing your leg back. when it...


Is this truck a Powerstroke Diesel, or a 351/5.8 or 460/7.5 Gas engine? If it is the powerstroke, check the Vacuum pump on the engine, this provides the power assist for the brake booster, it could be going bad from sitting. sitting is very hard on a vehicle, as moisture and thermal cycles do a lot of unseen damage. Brake fluid is one of those components affected by moisture and thermal cycles. If it is one of the Gas engines, it may well be the booster, but flush out all the brake fluid first, bleeding from the right hand rear wheel first, then left rear, right front then left front. Use only new fluid from a sealed container, discard open brake fluid containers after six months in humid climates, and a year in dry climates.

May 30, 2014 | 1992 Ford F250

1 Answer

99 dakota with engine running brake pedal will travel to the floor with engine turned off pedal is hard 1 inch from top


Sounds like a bad brake booster.. It's the large can behind the master cylinder. The fact you have a hard pedal with engine off is the key here.

Dec 11, 2017 | 1999 Dodge Dakota

1 Answer

I have installed new rear brake shoes and new wheel cylinders on both sides. I have bled the brakes. Good pedal when engine is off...no pedal at all when engine is started. Bled brakes 4 times.


When engine is running you have a power booster in operation. Without power booster brake pedal will be heavy. With engine running, do NOT press pedal really hard. Just normal firmness. If pedal goes to floor or just too low, it needs bleeding.

Are you sure you did not run the resovior dry?
I would think would not hurt to check the correct procedure for bleeding rear brakes. Here is a YouTube video which should help. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8T7Qrz3zJno

The other possible issue is the master cylinder piston is not sealing well. Might be a good idea to flush it with fresh fluid, but I imagine you have already if you bled it 4 times.

The way I was taught is this. Two persons method. To prevent mess, put a flexible tube over the nipple and drain it to a jar.
Fill resovior with fresh brake fluid. get ready at the bleed nipple with a small closed end wrench, and have helper sit in driver seat. Have helper pump brake pedal (all the way to the floor if it goes there without forcing it) 5 - 8 times, then HOLD PEDAL DOWN. Slowly open the bleed nipple and close it again BEFORE the pedal is released. Helper should keep pressure on as pedal moves down when fluid is released. Repeat until there is no sputtering or bubbles indicating air comming from nipple. Check and fill the tank every couple times to prevent emptying. If it run dry, you have a big problem. You must bleed the whole system at every wheel till ALL air is out.
Hope I have helped.

Jun 22, 2011 | 1999 GMC Yukon

1 Answer

1992 F250 460 cid automatic 2w drive 85000 mi. Just replaced my master cylinder, all 4 brakes, and both front rotors. Afterward I blead the brakes and got bubbles out of fluid. Problem is : when not...


There is never a test or reason to pump your brakes

Accomplishes absolutely nothing.

There is no pressure in a braking system at all,
until you SLOWLY apply the brake pedal.

Then less than 1" off movement in the master cyl,
will develop 600 to 1800 lbs at the wheels

Release the brake pedal, the system goes to zero,
IT DOES NOT HOLD ANY PRESSURE

To answer your question

You not suppost to press the pedal hard
The saying goes--you apply the brakes,
not force the pedal arm and pin into the
vacuum booster, as though you want to damage it

When your driving what happens ?
You have higher manifold vacuum and
thus your pedal is normal,why the VACUUM
brake booster

Mar 31, 2011 | 1992 Ford F250

1 Answer

Brake pump on 1992 plmouth voyager, the pedal is


If you have ABS brakes there is a large brake fluid pump connected to the brake fluid reservoir by two large hoses. It sits on top of the transmission and is held on by one bolt. Take a long metal rod and a hammer , place the rod against the body of the pump and with the car running tap or rap on the side of the pressure pump body. If it was just stuck you might get a few more months out of it. If it doesn't come back to life, get one at a salvage yard. Last time I checked they were on back order , supposedly about to be discontinued , and awfully expensive(about $600). I Picked one up a salvage yard for $10 that has worked now for three years.

Jul 30, 2010 | 1992 Plymouth Voyager

1 Answer

I have a 2002 Mazda MPV; the engine is shaking, foward and backward really hard when I am sitting still, with the car in gear. What's strange is that it doesn't shake when I have the emergency brake on,...


Possibly a bad / leaking brake booster basically creating a major vacuum leak when the brake pedal is depressed. Had one in the shop just last week doing exactly the same thing & that was the problem.

Oct 03, 2009 | 2002 Mazda MPV

2 Answers

91 Buick Century 2.5 L brake light on & battery light on


For the Brake light to stay on and the fluid is up...sounds like your sensor is playing dead......

For the battery to die after only (4) hours..you have a very big drain on the battery itself.....without the vehicle right here to look at would be very hard to even guess...electrical problems are a hands on chore...

I'd take it to your garage/mechainc

Jan 03, 2009 | 1991 Buick Century

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