Question about Chevrolet G20

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1992 chevy g20 van: power windows quit fuel gauge and voltage gauge pegged

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Check the fuel sending unit.And replace if faulty. If the sending unit checks out ok then, I think you need to look at your wiring. Usually a pegged guage means a short between the power supply (pink wire I think) and the ground. Make sure everything is connected properly. If it is then I would look at the sending unit to see if something is stuck and not allowing the float to lower down out of the full position. Get a voltmeter and start tracing the 12 volts. Likely a weak connection, either ground or +12. With one connector problem already, you might just go in wiggle each connector you can find. Get someone to look while you do that so you can find the culprit if it shows up. You can also just switch on/off the lights and find out where the voltage changes. AND for power windows not working:-- If the windows don't work, any of several issues is likely to blame, including no electricity, bad switches, bad motor, damaged window regulator, or even a broken wire.
Automotive power windows use a switched motor to operate a mechanical window regulator. This regulator moves the pane of glass into the door.
To check and confirm the fault try this procedure:--
1) Open the fuse panel and check the fuses for disrupted elements. The fuse panel at the driver's side kick panel, or between the dashboard and the door. In some cars the fuses are mounted in the engine compartment, in front of the driver's side firewall. Check the fuses and replace if faulty.
2)
Test the wiring harnesses from the fuse panel to the switches and from the switches to the window regulator motor. If the circuits test fine, then proceed to the next step. If a wiring harness is shorted or damaged, it will need to be replaced.3) Remove and test the switches on the driver's side door panel. Pry them up with a screwdriver and pull them free of the panel's opening. Disconnect the switch assembly from the wiring harness by pulling the adapter plug from the assembly. Test the switches individually by touching both sides of one switch with the circuit tester. Each switch will have two terminals, and if the tester is positive on both terminals while the window is activated, then the switch is good. Replace the switch assembly if any of the switches fails the test. Most power window switches come in assembled modules and cannot be replaced individually.4) Remove and test (if possible) the power window motor. Turn the armrest bolts and interior door handle screws counterclockwise, then pull the door panel free from the pop rivets. Behind the panel are a window regulator, the window glass, and the electric driver motor. The motor is usually located in the lower right section of the door. Unplug the motor from the wiring harness and unbolt it from the window regulator by turning the bolts counterclockwise. Pull the motor straight out, away from the gears. And check out if motor is receiving exact 12 volts at the terminals. If not then either motor is faulty or there is a confirm short if motor is replaced.
5) If all the above mentioned possibilities are checked out ok then the window regulator needs to be checked. Inspect the window regulator's joints for rust or stiff movement, if the electrical system is operating correctly. These joints can corrode or break, causing the window to stop working. With the door panel off, the window regulator can be removed and replaced by sliding the glass away from the track mounts, then turning all mount bolts counterclockwise and manipulating the regulator out of the door.
Thanks. keep updated for any more query.you can rate this solution and show your appreciation.

Posted on Aug 02, 2010

  • ernscragg Aug 02, 2010

    Sorry, I should have said these all happened at once

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