It will start when engine temp is cold and come up to operating temp. On occasion it will start when at regular operationg temp. but most of the time it will not start after stopping and trying to restart after about 10 or 15 minutes or more. Once it stalled while going down the road and I waited for about 30 minutes thinking it would cool down a little but it would not start. I had someone squirt starting fluid in while I cranked and it started. So I can squirt starting fluid into intake and it will start. Sometimes it will die on me when going down the road at appx, 20 mph. and other times it will stall at an idle and not restart. I don't think it makes any difference if the a/c is on or not but it just feels as if the fuel is shut off to it or something blocking air intake.
An expert who has achieved level 3 by getting 1000 points
An expert that got 10 achievements.
An expert that got 5 achievements.
An expert that has over 10,000 points.
Re: failure to start
Check the Fuel Filter and pump. It sounds like you have an over heat problem in the fuel pump unit or air in the fuel line that is causing vapor lock. This can happen when you let the gas level get below 1/4 tank depending on the temperatures in your area.
- If you need clarification, ask it in the comment box above.
- Better answers use proper spelling and grammar.
- Provide details, support with references or personal experience.
Tell us some more! Your answer needs to include more details to help people.You can't post answers that contain an email address.Please enter a valid email address.The email address entered is already associated to an account.Login to postPlease use English characters only.
Tip: The max point reward for answering a question is 15.
low operating temperatures is an indication of an air lock in the cooling system
gauges need the sender unit to be fully immersed in coolant to work but if they are not then the variable resistance material in the sender bulb cannot accurately relate to the coolant temperature
example if you have leak develop in a good system and you do not regularly scan your gauges like a good drive will do. it is possible that you will smell a dying engine yet when yo look at the gauge it will be reading cool to cold because the coolant has dropped to a point where the sender is no longer in contact with the coolant
bad need of a tuneup? like new spark plugs, ?
172 , is 02 rich/ lean warning. this one is low oxy for rich.
this code can just be a victim. for sure , with misfire.
means 02 sensor stuck at rich,
what is water temp in engine coolant, at failure? less than 150F?
could be lots of things.
leaking injectors, bad fuel.
injector sticking> causing misfire.
id use a scan tool and watch all sensor when it fails.
too high fuel pressure.
misfires cold, but only luke warm cold starts not fully cold.
just one DTC, no P0300 or 30x misfire codes, not even P0300 pendings?
I'm assuming the engine cranks with the starter but does not start and run.
check the operation of the cold start injector. This is a separate fuel injector that injects fuel into the intake manifold to help richen up the mixture for cold starts. It operates on a timer that is linked to a sensor that measures engine coolant temperature. Once warm or the timer runs out, the cold start injector is turned off. Other things to check:
Fuel pressure too high (floods engine through cold start injector), engine coolant temp sensor or intake air temp sensor is stuck at full hot (doesn't allow enough fuel for cold starts), fuel injectors are leaking (floods engine with fuel).
It sounds like an engine temp sensor is open.. When your engine is cold or anti-freeze is cold your ECU or ECM gets a signal from the temp sensor for cold engine start. It would make sense that it works fine when hot because the resistance on the sensor is a lot lower. Take an ohm meter if you have one and check the resistance across the temp sensor pins. When the engine is cold the resisitance should be really high. Start and warm up your car to normal temp and check it again. It should be a lot lower now. If not replace it. Hope this helps.
it's possible your problem is with the warm-up regulator. it should be sending more fuel when engine temp is low to get itself warmed up, and then go back to regular fuel pressure at operating temp. maybe it's not sending enough fuel when cold.
In general I know of no reason per se to replace the thermostat and
temp sensor because you replaced the radiator fan. If the temp gauge
seems to be staying in the 1/3-2/3 of full scale, and there is no
apparent engine control issues as the engine warms from cold to
operating temperature then there is no obvious reason to replace those
items. Other than fan motor failure is there any reason for you to
believe these other parts are at fault?You can get a free fault code
readout at an Autozone parts store which would highlight a temp sensor
problem, but there is no fault code for the thermostat except maybe the
one for engine running cold for too long a time after start up. You
could also check the resistance of the temp sensor which should run
around 10-14,000 ohms when cold and drop to 700-1,000 ohms when warmed
I don't know about the issue of replacing the thermostat because I
don't know which engine you are working with. So let me know an