Question about Audi A4

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Ok i got the locking ring off and lines pulled from the top now when i pull the white top off there are two more lines and wire plugs on the bottom inside do i disconnect those as well? 2001 audi a4 almost done thanks for all the help

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  • ichowbox2 Aug 02, 2010

    thank you so much that helps so much more thanks again

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  • Audi Master
  • 76,109 Answers

Yes u disconnect those as well see phot of fuel pump assmebly below, see how it goes.




ok i got the locking - 522b863.jpg

Posted on Aug 02, 2010

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Door lock actuator


This solution is for a 1998 Ford Taurus door lock actuator replacement. In this solution, I'm working on the front passenger door of a 1998 Ford Taurus SE (4 door). I installed a new door lock actuator from Advance Auto Parts, it's a Dorman 746-145, about $50 list, my cost was about $30 with a coupon I got by googling Advance Auto Parts Coupons, and applying a code at checkout.

Disconnect the negative battery cable.

Remove the interior door panel: Unscrew and remove the push/pull thing used to lock and unlock the door manually. Remove the 2 Phillips screws on the sides of the interior door panel. Remove the Phillips screw that's in the bottom of the interior door handle. Use a large screwdriver to pry the lower right hand corner of the interior door panel out, you may or may not be able to pop the clips free, work your way across the bottom and up the sides, pulling or prying or both. Pop it free all the way around, the top center clip can be a bear to get free. Make sure all the other sides are free, then get the top center clip. I think I pulled the top right of the panel to the top right, over the top of the door lock rod/button, and then it just popped free.

Remove the wiring harnesses for the electric window and electric lock buttons inside the panel you just removed: Push the button in, and pull the ring extending around the button for something to grip to pull it free. Rocking it a little seems to help. I used channel locks once a few months ago, but be careful.

The panel's free, set it aside where it won't get broken. You can leave the speaker in.

Pull the plastic water barrier off of the right half of the interior of the door. Take some tape or something and tie it down on the left side of the interior of the door, you'll be working on the right side only.

Take a look into the bottom right corner inside the door with a small flashlight. There's the actuator. Take note of the new part, and the old part, and the way the rod's connected to the actuator.

Note the Position of the actuator in the door, look at the new actuator, the wiring release clip is on the right (towards the steering wheel if the door were closed).
You will NOT need to remove the rivet that's in the actuator bracket. It just holds 2 pieces of the bracket together.

Remove the two 11mm bolts at bottom right that hold the actuator bracket and window track/rail in place.

Remove the 3 torx screws on the edge or end of the door, that hold the door lock in place. Don't worry, everything won't fall apart, you'll be fine.... :)

Now you'll need to find out how much slack is in the wiring to the bottom of the actuator. Do not pull on the wires. But you do have to take off the wiring clip from the bottom of the actuator. If the wires are long enough, push the window track/rail out of the way and swivel the bottom of the actuator towards you a little for easier access. I used a small flat blade screw driver to hold the locking clip out, as I pulled the wiring clip off the bottom of the actuator. Good Luck......

You won't be able to see much, so take a good look at the new actuator before trying to take the wiring clip off the old actuator.

Now to get the Actuator out of the door: Carefully push/move the window rail/track out of the way, moving it as little as possible, don't kink it, while pulling the actuator towards you. The actuator connecting rod will swivel where it connects above (at the lock), and allow you to move it.

Once the Actuator is clear of the window rail/track, take a screw driver and push the lock itself in as far as is necessary about an inch or so), while holding the actuator with the other hand, continue holding the lock in with the screw driver, while maneuvering the actuator to free the connecting rod from the lock assembly above. A half twist/turn is about all it takes to free it. Note how to reassemble it before disassembling it.

The actuator with the connecting rod on it is out of the car door.

Now for the hard part, use pliers or screwdrivers or whatever it takes, and remove the old clip that holds that connecting rod to the old actuator.

Hold that connecting rod up to the new one.

The new one I got was a little bit longer than the old one, and would not work until after I ground about 1/16th of an inch off the end of it. Making it identical to the old part. I recommend using the old connecting rod. Easier.

You'll still have to use the new clip on the connecting rod either way. With O-rings. I used a new o-ring on the top side, and an old o-ring on the bottom, because the old o-ring stayed in place by itself, and the new one was larger, and fell off the connecting rod. Bend the old o-ring and make sure it's not full of cracks before re-using it. Ace Hardware probably isn't too far away....

Before attaching the locking clip to the connecting rod, put the rod into the new actuator. There should only be enough extra room for the o-ring. If there's more room than that, you won't be able to get the locking clip on. Meaning, you'll have to use the old connecting rod, or grind some off the new rod. Put the old connecting rod in the actuator, and the new connecting rod in the actuator, if the space is the same or less for the new connecting rod, you're ok. If it's just a little bit more, it probably will not work.

Once you're certain your connecting rod is the proper length, assemble the connecting rod of your choice to the new actuator using 2 O-rings and the new connecting clip that came with your new actuator. This will not be easy. I had to get Fay to help me. she complained her fingers were getting pinched, so I had her hammer it on, and yes, my fingers got pinched. But no blood. Just pinched. Maybe I should have held it with pliers instead of my fingers....

I used I think it was a 3/8" line wrench (probably the smaller the better, this was the smallest I had), over the top the the new clip, and hammered it onto the new actuator. By hammered, I mean barely tapped on the wrench with a hammer, while the line wrench was perfectly positioned on the clip - to drive it onto the actuator. Stop when it's on, or you may break something.

After it's on, turn the clip a little (say half a turn), if it stays on, leave it.

The rest is pretty obvious. Pry the bracket off the old actuator (I used a flat blade screwdriver), noting it's position on the old actuator, and put it on the new one.

Push the lock in with a screwdriver (thru side of door), just enough to attach the rod on the actuator back into its place on the lock assembly.

Putting it back together is easy. Just don't forget any of the bolts that were removed. Start the 3 bolts that hold the lock. Start the two 11mm bolts that hold the actuator bracket and window rail/track. Tighten those 5 bolts. Hit what you can with a spray can of white lithium grease (Walmart has it next to the carb cleaner). Hit the lock, linkage, I even hit the window track. But not the wires. Work the manual lock button up and down making sure everything works freely.

I siliconed the water cover back onto the door (silicone was handy), then reattached the door panel. Connect the window and lock wiring first, and don't forget the 3 screws that hold the door panel on. And attach the door lock button that screws onto the top of the that door lock rod last.....

Reconnect the negative battery cable.

Test the lock actuator.

Mine was binding at the top, where the manual lock button goes thru the hole in the door panel. I probably should have bought new skinnier lock buttons, but I had the grinder out anyway, so yes, that plastic/rubber button got ground down. All the way around. Works fine now. This was probably the cause of that actuator going out.

Good Luck to You with Yours.... :)

Aug 22, 2013 | 2006 Acura TL

1 Answer

HOW DO YOU REMOVE A FUEL PUMP


It's not the easiest car....


  • Raise the hood to access the engine compartment. Disconnect the negative terminal from the battery.

  • Locate the drain plug at the bottom of the fuel tank. Open the drain plug with a crescent wrench. Allow all the fuel to drain into a large drain pan. Tighten the plug when the tank is drained.
  • Raise the back end of the vehicle by placing a jack under the driver's side rear door. There is an indented spot that is braced for the weight of the car. Chock the front wheels to ensure the car does not roll while lifted. Set the parking brake.
  • Place a second jack under the fuel tank to prevent the tank from falling to the ground when the straps are removed. Ensure the jack is in the center of the tank.
  • Unbolt the two straps with a socket wrench. Place the straps out of the way once they are removed.
  • Rest the tank onto the jack. Lower the tank enough to access the fuel lines and electrical wires. Separate the fuel line from the top of the tank by pulling the tabs then pulling away from the piping that holds the line in place. Disconnect the electrical lines from the tank by pushing down on the locking tab at the connector and pulling off from the connecting harness.
  • Slide the tank out from underneath the car. Lower the car until you are ready to install the tank.
  • Twist off the cap at the top of the gas tank with a counterclockwise movement using a large set of channel locks. Place the cap to the side and discard the O-ring.
  • Lift up on the fuel pump assembly to pull it out of the tank. You may have to tilt the assembly to pull it out comfortably.
  • Jan 05, 2011 | 1994 Mercury Grand Marquis

    1 Answer

    Pulled in the drive way shut the car off went to leave about 3 hours later and nothing at all checked battery,passkey and starter there all good security light does flash and I can't figure it out...


    If your security light flashes when you turn the key its your ignition switch. There are 2 little white wires that connect to it and 1 has broke off. What you described just happened to my wifes car 2 weeks ago. Follow the directions that i received below.

    The first thing you have to do before you start is take your old key and get a new key made with the right resistor pellet as your old key. They have to cut the new key to the dummy key so it will turn the lock cylinder. The car won't crank with the dummy key cause there is no pellet in it. Some Ace Hardwares sell these keys and are about $26.

    Your going to need a steering wheel puller and a lock ring depressor tool. Disable the driver's air bag from the yellow connector under the dash. Remove the airbag and unplug its connector. Disconnect by rotating counter-clock wise the horn connector. Put the airbag facing up on the back seat. Remove the steering wheel nut and use the steering wheel or harmonic balancer puller to remove the steering wheel.
    Note: there is a mark on the shaft that lines up on the steering wheel's mark.

    Remove the clock spring c clip. Pull the clock spring out enough to let it dangle. Do not rotate the clock spring or it will break later after you reinstall it. Remove the wave washer and depress the lock ring cam with the lock ring depressor tool. Remove the metal ring with picks and small screwdrivers. Remove the tool and lock ring. Unscrew the hazard switch button with phillips screwdriver. Then remove the turn signal
    level cam screws from turn signal switch. Remove the three turn signal switch screws.

    Go under the dash and unbolt the large connector halves. Just follow the wires that run through and under the column to find the connector. There is a plastic piece that the wires in the column come out of. Squeeze the plastic pieces tabs together and pull the plastic wiring protector out. Undo the small connector that has the two little white wires on it. Pull the turn signal switch out far enough to let it dangle. Using a pair of needle noise gently remove the key chime switch. Pull it out gentle like you are picking a nose hair. You'll see a bolt with an torx head. Remove the bolt and pull the orange white wire retainer from its hole. The ignition switch should slide out.

    Tie a piece of string to the end of the white wire connector you unplugged. Then pull the white wires up through the column along with the string. Cut the string from the connector after you fish it out. Tie the end of the string to the new ignition switch white wire connector and gently pull on the other end of the string at the bottom of the dash to fish the wires down into the column. From there everything is reversed.

    The hardest part of the whole job is getting that little metal ring off with a pick and/or tiny pocket screwdriver with out poking a hole in your hand.

    Sep 19, 2010 | 1993 Buick LeSabre

    1 Answer

    Replace ignition key tumbler


    The first thing you have to do before you start is take your old key and get a new key made with the right resistor pellet as your old key. They have to cut the new key to the dummy key so it will turn the lock cylinder. The car won't crank with the dummy key cause there is no pellet in it.

    Your going to need a steering wheel puller and a lock ring depressor tool. Disable the driver's air bag from the yellow connector under the dash. Remove the airbag and unplug its connector. Disconnect by rotating counter-clock wise the horn connector. Put the airbag facing up on the back seat. Remove the steering wheel nut and use the steering wheel or harmonic balancer puller to remove the steering wheel.
    Note: there is a mark on the shaft that lines up on the steering wheel's mark.

    Remove the clock spring c clip. Pull the clock spring out enough to let it dangle. Do not rotate the clock spring or it will break later after you reinstall it. Remove the wave washer and depress the lock ring cam with the lock ring depressor tool. Remove the metal ring with picks and small screwdrivers. Remove the tool and lock ring. Unscrew the hazard switch button with phillips screwdriver. Then remove the turn signal
    level cam screws from turn signal switch. Remove the three turn signal switch screws.

    Go under the dash and unbolt the large connector halves. Just follow the wires that run through and under the column to find the connector. There is a plastic piece that the wires in the column come out of. Squeeze the plastic pieces tabs together and pull the plastic wiring protector out. Undo the small connector that has the two little white wires on it. Pull the turn signal switch out far enough to let it dangle. Using a pair of needle noise gently remove the key chime switch. Pull it out gentle like you are picking a nose hair. You'll see a bolt with an torx head. Remove the bolt and pull the orange white wire retainer from its hole. The ignition switch should slide out.

    Tie a piece of string to the end of the white wire connector you unplugged. Then pull the white wires up through the column along with the string. Cut the string from the connector after you fish it out. Tie the end of the string to the new ignition switch white wire connector and gently pull on the other end of the string at the bottom of the dash to fish the wires down into the column. From there everything is reversed

    Sep 08, 2010 | 1992 Buick LeSabre

    1 Answer

    How do you remove the column ignition switch


    The first thing you have to do before you start is take your old key and get a new key made with the right resistor pellet as your old key.(ACE Hardware does these keys) They have to cut the new key to the dummy key so it will turn the lock cylinder. The car won't crank with the dummy key cause there is no pellet in it.

    Your going to need a steering wheel puller and a lock ring depressor tool. Disable the driver's air bag from the yellow connector under the dash. Remove the airbag and unplug its connector. Disconnect by rotating counter-clock wise the horn connector. Put the airbag facing up on the back seat. Remove the steering wheel nut and use the steering wheel or harmonic balancer puller to remove the steering wheel.
    Note: there is a mark on the shaft that lines up on the steering wheel's mark.

    Remove the clock spring c clip. Pull the clock spring out enough to let it dangle. Do not rotate the clock spring or it will break later after you reinstall it. Remove the wave washer and depress the lock ring cam with the lock ring depressor tool. Remove the metal ring with picks and small screwdrivers. Remove the tool and lock ring. Unscrew the hazard switch button with phillips screwdriver. Then remove the turn signal
    level cam screws from turn signal switch. Remove the three turn signal switch screws.

    Go under the dash and unbolt the large connector halves. Just follow the wires that run through and under the column to find the connector. There is a plastic piece that the wires in the column come out of. Squeeze the plastic pieces tabs together and pull the plastic wiring protector out. Undo the small connector that has the two little white wires on it. Pull the turn signal switch out far enough to let it dangle. Using a pair of needle noise gently remove the key chime switch. Pull it out gentle like you are picking a nose hair. You'll see a bolt with an torx head. Remove the bolt and pull the orange white wire retainer from its hole. The ignition switch should slide out.

    Tie a piece of string to the end of the white wire connector you unplugged. Then pull the white wires up through the column along with the string. Cut the string from the connector after you fish it out. Tie the end of the string to the new ignition switch white wire connector and gently pull on the other end of the string at the bottom of the dash to fish the wires down into the column. From there everything is reversed

    Sep 04, 2010 | 1993 Buick LeSabre

    1 Answer

    I have a 98 catera, it wont start, security light flashing. bought a new key and tried to get it programmed and they said they cant pull the key code. said the immobilizer is bad, where is it located ? on...


    It is a white or beige looking ring around the key switch and its why the key is recessed in the column so it enters the reactor ring. If you remove the top and bottom halves of the column cover, you should see it.

    Apr 19, 2010 | 1998 Cadillac Catera

    3 Answers

    How to replace fuel pump 1996 chevy 1 ton hd


    0900c1528008f1eb.jpg
    enlarge_icon.gifenlarge_tooltip.gif Fig. Fig. 1: Electric fuel pump-TBI engines
    1. With the engine turned OFF , relieve the fuel pressure at the pressure regulator. Refer to the fuel relief procedure in this section.
    2. Disconnect the negative battery cable.
    3. Raise and support the rear of the vehicle on jackstands.
    4. Drain the fuel tank, then remove it.
    5. Using a hammer and a drift punch, drive the fuel lever sending device and pump assembly locking ring (located on top of the fuel tank) counterclockwise. Lift the assembly from the tank and remove the pump from the fuel lever sending device.
    6. Pull the pump up into the attaching hose while pulling it outward away from the bottom support. Be careful not to damage the rubber insulator and strainer during removal. After the pump assembly is clear of the bottom support, pull it out of the rubber connector.
    1. Connect the fuel pump to the hose.

    Be careful that you don't fold or twist the strainer when installing the sending unit, or you'll restrict fuel flow.
    1. Install a new O-ring on the pump assembly and then position them into the fuel tank.
    2. Turn the locking ring clockwise until its tight.
    3. Install the fuel tank and connect the battery cable.
    If you dont feel like dropping the tank and hassling with the hangers because they often break cut a hole in the bed of your truck over the tank where the fuel pump is but be careful not to hit the wires. dont cut the piece out completely cut it so you can pry it up to oneside

    Jan 16, 2010 | 1996 Chevrolet C3500

    2 Answers

    How do i change fuel pump for 2003 pontiac grand prix


    yo have to lower the gas tank and disconnect all the lines and wire harness connectors, then you pull the fuel pump module out from the top of the tank!!
    here is what the module assembly looks like:
    http://www.autozone.com/autozone/catalog/parts/partsShelf.jsp?displayName=Fuel+Pump&currentPage=1&categoryDisplayName=Fuel+Delivery&navValue=14900078&itemId=prod61225&parentId=cat30060

    Jun 17, 2009 | 2003 Pontiac Grand Prix

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