Question about 1994 Isuzu Trooper

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Turned ignition and all I got was clicking, tried new battery, no avail, I know the computer was reset after switching batteries, wondering if the solenid or the starter or hold-in coil

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  • gm1sw Aug 06, 2010

    yes, it was the Starter

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I am assuming the new battery is out of a shop and not another vehicle. If not you should measure at least 13V on the battery terminals. A battery that is low on power may also give you the above conditions.
The following test are conducted with the ignition OFF and the vehicle in Neutral(or Park for Automatics)
First test to do is to confirm if the starter motor is OK. Take a set of jumper cables. Connect the negative of the battery to a good earthing point on the engine. Have a look at the starter solenoid. On the rear of the solenoid are 2 thick connectors. One has a short thick cable from the solenoid to the starter. Touch the positive of the jumper cable to this connector. The starter should spin(without cranking the engine) If the starter spins then the actual motor is still fine. If not you have to remove the starter for repair.
Remove the negative cable from the engine and touch the positive on the connecter again. If the starter spins then you have confirmed that the engine is still properly earthed. If not locate the earthing strap and make sure it is still attached. If corroded you will need to sand the connecting points.
If the above test pass then remove the thin wire from the solenoid. Run a wire from battery positive to the point where this wire connected to. When you touch this wire to the connecting point the starter should activate and crank the motor. If not the solenoid is defective.
Since you do hear clicking which indicates the circuitry is not faulty the following is not nescasary. I include it just in case.
Locate the starter relay. It is in the fuse and relay box in the engine compartment. Relay no x-17. It should also indicate it on the cover. Remove the relay. Run a wire from the battery + to where pin no 87 connects to(look onthe underside of the relay for pin numbers) This should once again activate the starter. If not the wiring between the relay and starter is faulty(or the immobiliser system, if fitted, is malfuntioning.)
To test the relay, connect a wire from battery positive to pin 85, and another from battery negative to pin 86.(You should hear the relay click) Measuring resistance between pin 30 and 87 should read close to 0 ohm. If you dont have a meter use a test lamp( battery pos to lamp to relay pin 30 and battery negative to pin 87) The test lamp should light up. If not the relay is faulty and needs replacing.
These starters are extremely tough and in most cases it is the brushes on the motor that fail.

Posted on Aug 02, 2010

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1 Answer

Changed battery but will not work


Is the engine cranking over? If not, check the battery earth where it connects to the block / body.

Perhaps, because the battery was disconnected, your onboard computer has lost memory and needs to 'relearn'.

If you know someone with an OBD - the hand held diagnostic machine - get them to connect it to your car and try and reset any error codes that come up.

Personally, I would try turning the ignition key on and off quite a few times - no need to actually try and start the vehicle. Sometimes the on-off action of a key (about 30 times) can reset the ECU - the computer.

I would also try leaving the ignition switched on for a couple of minutes, turning it off and then repeating the process a few times.

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Disconnect the battery terminals and jumper the positive and negative leads together. This will completely drain the computer and it will have to reset itself as it comes up. Leave the jumper on the leads for an hour or so. When you reconnect the battery, your problem might fix itself.

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I can think of several possibilities:

1. When replacing the battery, some sort of shortcircuit might have occurrred messing up the fuses.
Solution: Refer to your user's manual to identify where the wipers' fuse is located and try replacing it.

2. As far as I'm concerned, a way to "reset" the computer in the car is disconnecting the battery, so the computer may have been reset with wrong parameters.
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3. If your model has automatic wipers, try switching from auto to manual mode and viceversa.

4. When the battery on my 206 was almost worn out, the lights kept turning on after killing the switch, followed by a quick beeping (which normally indicates the power in the battery is draining). At first, I thought it was the switch of the headlamps, but after replacing the battery with a new one, the problem got solved. Maybe the battery you just put in is faulty?

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Access the ignition switch, remove the connector, and test the switch using an ohmmeter. Procedures for accessing the switch are available at the link below.
Repair Guides Steering Ignition Switch And Lock Cylinder AutoZone com

using the wiring diagram below, the switch terminal with the pink/black wire comes from the bettery and should have continuity with the terminal with the dark blue wire when the key is on. It should not have continuity when the key is off. Similarly, the battery terminal should have continuity with the terminal that connects to the yellow wire when the key is turned to the start position. If the switch fails this test, replace it. If not, please get back to us for the next step.


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1 Answer

Generator is good, new ignition, new battery. Car started up right away, drove 20min. Now won't start?


Tell us more details.
For example, how do you know the alternator really is good?
You say new "ignition", but that could be the ignition switch, plug wires, distributor, etc.
Regardless if the battery was new, you can easily drain the battery in less then 20 minutes, so we need to know if the battery still has a charge or not. Put a test light or volt meter across it.
We also need to know if it does nothing, not even drain the lights, or if it clicks at the solenoid?
The best would be if you put a voltmeter across the battery.
If the ignition switch is bad, then nothing at all with happen.
If the battery is bad, it will start around 12 volts, but drop down below 9 and not come back up when you stop trying.
It is drops but comes back up, it is probably the starter.
But you could try turning the engine over by hand on the alternator nut, because it could be seizing up from a bad bearing.
Try jump starting it also.
If that helps, then check the voltage when reved up.
It if does not reach over 13.5 volts, the alternator is not working.

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My 95 nissan maxima won't start. I have been having an issue with it not starting or delaying to start. We changed the battery and then it wouldn't start completely...we heard a click. I waited about an...


When you changed the battery to a new one, did you make sure that the contacts were very shiny and clean before installing?

An ignition switch if worn out may cause the ignition system to not get power. Do all of the indicator lights and horn power up before trying to start?

If it were a starter or solenoid, the car wouldn't turn over at all or very slowly while drawing a lot of current.

I would have it towed to a garage that can perform a starting charging test.

Then, I would address the issue with it not starting when it turns over fine.

Good luck on this repair.

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