Question about 1994 Isuzu Trooper

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Turned ignition and all I got was clicking, tried new battery, no avail, I know the computer was reset after switching batteries, wondering if the solenid or the starter or hold-in coil

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  • gm1sw Aug 06, 2010

    yes, it was the Starter



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I am assuming the new battery is out of a shop and not another vehicle. If not you should measure at least 13V on the battery terminals. A battery that is low on power may also give you the above conditions.
The following test are conducted with the ignition OFF and the vehicle in Neutral(or Park for Automatics)
First test to do is to confirm if the starter motor is OK. Take a set of jumper cables. Connect the negative of the battery to a good earthing point on the engine. Have a look at the starter solenoid. On the rear of the solenoid are 2 thick connectors. One has a short thick cable from the solenoid to the starter. Touch the positive of the jumper cable to this connector. The starter should spin(without cranking the engine) If the starter spins then the actual motor is still fine. If not you have to remove the starter for repair.
Remove the negative cable from the engine and touch the positive on the connecter again. If the starter spins then you have confirmed that the engine is still properly earthed. If not locate the earthing strap and make sure it is still attached. If corroded you will need to sand the connecting points.
If the above test pass then remove the thin wire from the solenoid. Run a wire from battery positive to the point where this wire connected to. When you touch this wire to the connecting point the starter should activate and crank the motor. If not the solenoid is defective.
Since you do hear clicking which indicates the circuitry is not faulty the following is not nescasary. I include it just in case.
Locate the starter relay. It is in the fuse and relay box in the engine compartment. Relay no x-17. It should also indicate it on the cover. Remove the relay. Run a wire from the battery + to where pin no 87 connects to(look onthe underside of the relay for pin numbers) This should once again activate the starter. If not the wiring between the relay and starter is faulty(or the immobiliser system, if fitted, is malfuntioning.)
To test the relay, connect a wire from battery positive to pin 85, and another from battery negative to pin 86.(You should hear the relay click) Measuring resistance between pin 30 and 87 should read close to 0 ohm. If you dont have a meter use a test lamp( battery pos to lamp to relay pin 30 and battery negative to pin 87) The test lamp should light up. If not the relay is faulty and needs replacing.
These starters are extremely tough and in most cases it is the brushes on the motor that fail.

Posted on Aug 02, 2010


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Tell us more details.
For example, how do you know the alternator really is good?
You say new "ignition", but that could be the ignition switch, plug wires, distributor, etc.
Regardless if the battery was new, you can easily drain the battery in less then 20 minutes, so we need to know if the battery still has a charge or not. Put a test light or volt meter across it.
We also need to know if it does nothing, not even drain the lights, or if it clicks at the solenoid?
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If the battery is bad, it will start around 12 volts, but drop down below 9 and not come back up when you stop trying.
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Try jump starting it also.
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