Question about 2001 Mazda Millenia

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Car lurches when car is cold.

When the engine is cold and put into drive, it lurches forward. Problem goes away when the engine heats up.

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6 Suggested Answers

6ya6ya
  • 2 Answers

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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

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leetamara
  • 702 Answers

SOURCE: transmission won't engage/ no drive or reverse at all

It's definitely cheaper to buy a trans from a wrecking yard than to have yours rebuilt. Before you do anything though. Did you make sure that the trans fluid level is full? I know this may be a stupid question, but I had to ask. The speed sensors job is to tell the speedometer how fast you're going...not related to your problem.

Posted on Jul 03, 2008

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dgjtex
  • 405 Answers

SOURCE: After car heats up (slow to heat) it stil blows cold until moving

http://www.fixya.com/cars/t1386554-91_ford If this doesn't help you tell me more, if it does, please vote me fixya, otherwise please do not give me any rating at all, the only compensation I get is my Fixya score, Merry Christmas.

Posted on Dec 22, 2008

keemo68
  • 1263 Answers

SOURCE: 2002 HONDA CRV COLD ANTIFREEZE LEAK

this happens alot on older vehicles most often times because the coolant hose shrink and expand around a fitting. try and tighten all coolant clamps. this often is all it takes to solve the problem. you should also look to see that all seals around heads of engine show no seepage

Posted on Apr 25, 2009

  • 1129 Answers

SOURCE: loud whirring noise at start-up

The first thing to check would be to make sure the power steering reservoir is not running near empty, locate the filler cap for the power steering pump it should be marked and then add the appropriate amount making sure you don't over fill, that may make the sound go away if not we must move on to the next possibility, by the way if the noise gets louder when you turn the steering wheel it is most likely the power steering pump or fluid level is low.

Posted on Jul 14, 2009

hardinfarms
  • 144 Answers

SOURCE: car does not drive forward but works in reverse

Sad to say but your automatic transmission has bit the dust.

Posted on Jul 24, 2009

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ever thought of having the fault codes read
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wow no year stated.... ouch.
take a breath
is this problem with a cold engine or hot, or both.
the N to D lurch is normal cold. (ever drive other cars?)
is the hot rpm at about 800?
is engine power ok>
does engine stall>?
cold rpm , not klondike is around 1500 max, and well lurch, cold when
going from N to any gear or Reverse.

the display wrong is , a failing PRNDL switch.
but the ECU reports this,
why not connect a scan tool and scan it.
id bet it got DTCs stored. causing the CEL to glow full time.
is it>?


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My heater blows hot for a couple minutes then turns cold. After turning it off for a few minutes and back on, it blows hot then goes cold again.


LET YOUR CAR WARM UP FIRST!! or you risk the chance of over heating and casuing engine damage. start your car let it warm up for 5 to ten minutes and then try the heat. also when you start you should NEVER have heat on right away. the heat that you feel comes from the engine. and if the engine is cold and you are trying to heat it up it will put stress on the engine and over heat. ALL cars have to wait for their heat. that's why you see peoples car running in the morning with no one in it. so when they do get in it they have heat. heat will not work until the engine is warm.

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I would have to say that your transmission failed. The Tranmission was trying to lock up and the engine was being forced to labor extra hard and that is what more than likely created the extra heat.

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I recommend a trans fluid and filter change first. It definately sounds like the problem is in the trans. If it was any sort of engine component you would have had a check engine light on.

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