Question about Isuzu Trooper

1 Answer

The bolt is off the crank shaft pully but it will not come off .

Posted by on

Ad

1 Answer

  • Level 3:

    An expert who has achieved level 3 by getting 1000 points

    Superstar:

    An expert that got 20 achievements.

    All-Star:

    An expert that got 10 achievements.

    MVP:

    An expert that got 5 achievements.

  • Isuzu Master
  • 22,246 Answers

Put a socket on it with a nice snap on knuckle bar the jam it into suspension and turn the ignition on to start teh vehicle that will undoo it

Posted on Aug 01, 2010

Ad

1 Suggested Answer

6ya6ya
  • 2 Answers

SOURCE: I have freestanding Series 8 dishwasher. Lately during the filling cycle water hammer is occurring. How can this be resolved

Hi,
a 6ya expert can help you resolve that issue over the phone in a minute or two.
Best thing about this new service is that you are never placed on hold and get to talk to real repairmen in the US.
the service is completely free and covers almost anything you can think of.(from cars to computers, handyman, and even drones)
click here to download the app (for users in the US for now) and get all the help you need.
Goodluck!

Posted on Jan 02, 2017

Ad

Add Your Answer

Uploading: 0%

my-video-file.mp4

Complete. Click "Add" to insert your video. Add

×

Loading...
Loading...

Related Questions:

1 Answer

Is the crank shaft pully bolt on a citroen xantia left hand thread?


do this on earlier models but not the later ones as no keyway on the crank and as bolt loosens the bottom timing gear stays stationary and pistons bang the valves .i know i have done it

Jan 30, 2012 | Cars & Trucks

2 Answers

I can't get the nut off the crank shaft pullry.


the torque of this bolt is 304 ft/lb!!! need lock flywheel and big breaking bar

Mar 02, 2011 | 1994 Toyota Land Cruiser

1 Answer

I'm in the middle of removing the head cylinder on a 95 toyota previa and I'm having trouble trying to get the chain out from the cam gear!is there a way of getting it off without having to take off the...


Dont remove the cam gear until you remove the crank shaft bolt.If you turn the crank with out the cam gear in place you may bend some valves.And damage the head,or a piston as well.
You can use a bar, and a socket on the crank bolt, if it clears everthing and rests on the frame work,then engauge the starter,this will loosen the crank bolt,but dont start the engine.Just a few hits on the key.Stand clear of the bar,!You may have to heat the bolt head a bit,as well.The bolt may have had locktite installed on the threads.Have the battery fully charged.

Sep 13, 2010 | Toyota Previa Cars & Trucks

1 Answer

I have 1993 bmw 740il I try to replace the


Hi, you must take off the crank shaft pully to access the water pump use # 13 mm socket or Torx socket (not sure wich one) to take off the crank shaft pulley bolts.
Good Luck!!

Jan 10, 2010 | 2006 BMW 750Li

2 Answers

How do i repair the gasket behind the crank shaft seal?I have a major oil leak and i was told my gasket behind the crank shaft in the front needs to be changed. I have nearly no experience on vehicles so...


Front crank seal. First you have to have room to work, so this may require you remove the radiator and some plastics. Remove the serpentine belt,remove the bolt in the center of the crank pully. The pully should slide off with some resistance but not enough to need a puller. Once the pully is off, there's your sea. Pop the seal out with a screwdriver. Clean the surface of the hole where the seal was, Put some sealer,on the outer perimeter of the new seal and some grease on the seal lips. Evenly tap the new seal into place with the spring side of the seal facing in. make sure seal is at the point the old seal was. Now take the pully and clean the surface the seal rides on, very clean and nd coat with a thin coating of grease. Slide the pully back on and secure with bolt. Then belt, then radiator. Any trouble, holler. Good Luck, Ned

Oct 17, 2009 | 1994 Dodge Caravan

1 Answer

Hondai sonota


Which engine? 4 cylinder (2.4 lit) or V6 (2.7 lit)? Two different procedures as well as different belts. The 4 cylinder also has a balance belt. See next image:
42e8a57.jpg
Here's the 2.7 V6 belt:

44efb27.jpg
The replacement procedure is nearly the same at the start (removing, accy drive belts, pullys, support engine & remove front engine mount, remove T.B covers, disconnect Cam Position Sensor & Crank Position Sensor connectors, etc.). When you get to this point on the V6, you also have to remove the front engine mounting bracket from the front of the engine (4 14mm bolts, also a 12mm bolt which bolts the dipstick tube to the side of it) Put crank shaft at TDC (top dead center w/ALL timing marks aligned) remove hydraulic tensioner (2 12 mm bolts), then remove the belt. You'll need to recompress the hydraulic (auto) tensioner in a vise and insert a retaining pin through the pin-holes at the top (through the tensioner piston) to keep it compressed when you reinstall it. Otherwise, you won't be able to install it. Assembly is reverse order of dissassembly. Inspect your pullys while you're in there (check for pully bearing noise, leaking grease, smooth rotation, also the water pump pully, etc.) Replace components as needed. Careful not to damage Crankshaft Position Sensor wire harness.

The 4 Cylinder is quite different. You not only change the timing belt, but also the countershaft (balance) belt, which is behind the crank position sensor blade. IMPORTANT: ALL TIMING MARKS ALIGNED BEFORE REMOVING ANYTHING) There are two (2) counter-shafts (balance shafts). one driven by the timing belt, the other by the crankshaft sprocket behind the timing belt sprocket at the front of the crankshaft.
70f048d.jpg1999205.jpg366ecea.jpg b8013a3.jpg

Jun 02, 2009 | 2001 Hyundai Sonata

1 Answer

1991 mazda mvp


Yes, the front pully is the belt drive and that must come off to get to seal. The radiator has to come out to take the pully off. The pully should come off easily once retaining bolt is removed. It can only go back on one way. Goood luck

May 20, 2009 | 1991 Mazda MPV

1 Answer

FOR FIXING THE CRANK SHAFT PULLY WHICH BOLT IS FIX SMALL OR BIG


The large bolt holds on the lower crankshaft pulley for timing belt, the six small bolts hold the larger pulley that drive the alternator, power steering etc. It sounds correct.

Dec 04, 2008 | 2001 Kia Sportage

2 Answers

Need to set timing on a 88 subaru 1.8 liter


The crank shaft pully will need removal and the water pump pully as well, also the 2 inspection covers and the center housing cover that they conect with, when removed all of the timing belts will be exposed as well as crank shaft end. I used a screw driver angled wedged and held in on the teeth of the fly-wheel to lock it in position so I could remove the crank shaft pully bolt, (standard lefty-loosey threaded). This would have been easier with the fly-wheel locking tool from subaru, or even just a budy to hold the fly-wheel while i turned the bolt loose at the crank pully. I unbolted the fan and slid it out of the way, I did not even need to unplug it. just be sure battery is not conected. The oil dip-stick tube has one 12 mm bolt at the end of a brace at top of engine. loosen and pull up and forward to remove. the crank shaft bolt-you will need to put back in the bolt only! on the end of the crank shaft so you can rotate the engine manualy with a socket on the crank shaft pully nut, while looking through the hole on the top of rear engine area just above fly wheel. wach fly wheel as it turns, look for 3 lines side by side these are not the timing degree marks they are seperate from them, align them to the little arow on the houseing in front of the 3 little marks. be sure the e-brake is set, trany in nutral so engine can turn freely. inspect the cam shaft pullies, on the surface there are 4 evenly spaced holes, there is one tiny hole that lays between the other holes, this little hole that is the pully mark, it needs to be at the twelve oclock position, there is a small groove on the housing at the twelve oclock position as well. align the two with each other, the little hole with the little notch directly above. do the same for the other side cam pully, same way. loosen the idler pulies for each belt, 2 bolts, move it to its full retracted position, pushing on it with fngers against spring tention, titen one of the nuts so the pully stays retracted/pushed. remove old belts, being carefull not to move the place marks of either of the 2 cam shafts or the engine crank placement. put in the new belts check to see if belt has a direction of dravel and match with engine, mine it did not matter but was told that it may with other belt makers? i don't know about that? but thought it was worth the warning?
once belts are on be sure again that marks all mate with marks on all 3 points crank and fly-wheel, both cam shaft pullies with notchs, now release the tnsion on the idler pullies, and retighten where they fell. check again on the 3 timing points be sure they have not moved again... tireing but worth it. if the have moved off of any mark you must realign it by moveing the pully to the rite spot and putting the belt back on. one tooth off on the drivers side of engine cam can meen up to 16 degrees of timing lose either way of perfect. once aligned, put the center cover back over the crank shaft, bolt on. put on the oil dip stick, put on the water pump pully and crank shaft pully, put on belts. leave the fans out untill all is done, just be sure they are free of obstacles so if they come on later it does no harm to it, you, or anything else. leave off the inspection covers at each cam pully. be sure to un block the fly-wheel. re asemble engine and componants to the installed normal positions as best as posible. re conect battery, be sure all tools are clear, start engine, if it will not run smoothly re set the distributer for timing, if still runs bad, you may have one or both cams off by plus or minus 1-2 teeth one the belts. this was hell... you have to move one side one tooth and start the engine and time it again, if that was not it then you move one tooth in in the oposite direction from the oiginal spot, now 2 teeth the oposite way. if not better put back on the original tooth, and do the same to the other cam one step and start at a time untill you find it to work the best, it may even be off by 1 tooth on the rite and 1- tooth on the left. This was a nite-mare but i finaly found the rite placements.
take 2 aspirin, advil, etc. pre-medicate for the manditory headache. and best of luck..
if you are wondering if the valves and the pistons may have struck, forget it subaru made this 1.8l engine as a none contacting engine, this meens that they can never touch piston to valves even in a cam belt failure.

Jul 21, 2008 | 1984 Subaru Gl

Not finding what you are looking for?
Cars & Trucks Logo

Related Topics:

17 people viewed this question

Ask a Question

Usually answered in minutes!

Top Isuzu Experts

yadayada
yadayada

Level 3 Expert

76846 Answers

Colin Stickland
Colin Stickland

Level 3 Expert

22246 Answers

Thomas Perkins
Thomas Perkins

Level 3 Expert

14384 Answers

Are you an Isuzu Expert? Answer questions, earn points and help others

Answer questions

Manuals & User Guides

Loading...