Question about 2000 Chevrolet S-10
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
vacuum leaks on intake manifold,
the air tube between the air filter.
intake manifold vacuum hose.
clean throttle plate with Berryman carburator cleaner
SEE sample picture HERE
Also remove carbon built up behind the EGR valve and the EGR passage tube.
Vacuum leak WILL offset the intended 14.7 to 1 air fuel ratio.
More un-metered air (leaks) will lean out the fuel mixture.
Use small amount of Berryman carb clearer at potential air leak area will help you identify trouble spot.
At idle,just spray and listen for the RPM surge.
The in-rush of carb clearer will increase the RPM on the motor.
Record the problem spot(s) and address it later.
EGR carbon built up require 2+ hours to clean from start to finish.
You will need a new EGR base gasket before your start.
Locate and remove the EGR valve after the vehicle is cool down.
Carefully record the connector and vacuum line (for older vehicle) location by drawing an easily to follow diagram.
Remove the EGR valve.
Inspect the location of the carbon built-up inside the valve and the EGR passage tube.
SOAK these areas with WD-40 spary.
You will need a small screwdriver,cloth hanger and lot of newspaper and time to get this cleaning done right.
RE-SOAK the carbon and let it sit for over-night will also help.
One the last round,pass a shop vacuum of the EGR valve and the passage pipe.
Install the new EGR gasket and connectors.
Allow the vehicle to warm up outdoor to burn up any remaining WD-40.
Take it for a test drive.
Please rate my answer if it's useful to you.
Posted on Dec 19, 2009
SOURCE: disgnostic code meaning
P0404 Exhaust Gas
Recirculation Control Circuit Range/Performance
P0405 Exhaust Gas Recirculation Sensor “A” Circuit Low
It sounds like you have a failure of the EGR valve.
Posted on Sep 28, 2008
SOURCE: power loss
Can't answer your last question but catalytic convertors that are just not working anymore won't cause any loss of power.
However, if they have shattered inside (they are kind of a ceramic honeycomb) they can dump junk into the exhaust system that can eventually clog your muffler or resonator.
Checking whether this has happened isn't difficult; after the warm up of the engine, either you or a helper needs to listen to the exhaust note. If firing of the cylinders is still distinct, the system isn't clogged with shrapnel; if it seems to hiss at higher RPMs, it is likely clogged.
This effect is easy to miss; I've had two failures and when cold, the engine would pull fine because the chunks of ceramic would fall to the bottom of the muffler and glue together somewhat. Once hot and agitated, they would clog the muffler and cause a severe loss of power but the idle would be OK. A hill that I would normally pull at 70 MPH, I couldn't top at all; had to sit and wait for things to cool down before proceeding.
It also seems some engines appreciate a bit of back-pressure in the exhaust system because the car gained in mileage and pulling power for several thousand miles before the clog became critical causing the mileage to fall sharply along with the power.
Posted on May 23, 2009
Turns out they should have put in a new fuel pump rather than the EGR valve. Hopefully this will solve the problem.
Posted on Jun 10, 2009
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