Question about Cadillac Seville

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I have a 1994 cadillac concours (sedan seville) with the northstar engine. I runs like new, except after it gets hot (no sign of overheating) it starts stalling or cutting off/out and will eventually die. It will do this repeatedly untill it has sat long enough to cool off. I drive it to and from work 8 mi each way everyday without a problem and open road it rarely bucks, the problem is with slow heavy traffic situations that the heat seems to aggrivate the problem. Need help can not afford a trip to the dealer. Suggestions please, an answer would be heaven sent, thanks

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  • sacks424 Aug 01, 2010

    I'm hoping someone may have had a similiar experience with this issue. desperate and poor

  • sacks424 Aug 08, 2010

    When the airtemp outside is near 100 this is when it happens below 90 no problem. The car does not overhear in the classic way. What inthe world could this be?

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Thats one of your feul injectors are shorted out i promise shops wont ever figure it out either trust me replace ur feul injectors

Posted on Jul 07, 2013

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You did'nt say if the oil was changed recerntly, or any other repairs? Theres warning lights on the dash and they should come on if theirs a problem bad enough to stall the engine. The antifrezze coolant needs to be changed once a year in these cars, and if it does'nt happen the cooling system will start to clog. You explain that if your going on your regular 8 mile run the car seems to run OK it's just when hung up in traffic that the car acts up. Pushing the info button on the dashboard display will roll around to coolant temperture, Once there drive the car, It should get up to 195 F fairly quickly and once it's there it should stay under 205. If it doesn't these a number of things that'll cause it. It riding down the raod doesn't do it them the raditor may be OK but if sitting still and running at low speeds or stopped in traffic, and it heats then maybe the cooling fans are not coming on or their not running fast enough, The fans are variable speed and the system has a neet controller that runns the fans. As the fans get older they draw more and more power they can even lock up and not turn. Because of this neet conrtroller theirs no fuses on the fans themselves and the controller fails and then both fans don't work even if one of the fans are still good. It's hard to get to the fans with the car put together as their covered real good. I expect the check engine light to be on if theirs troble with the controller. Holding the off and warmer buttons on the heater control down at the same time will put the conputers in diadostic mode ( not all Northstars systems will do this) but it doesn't hurt the car to try it. once in mode it'll ask PCM?pusing the up down keys will advance or down will look at it. Their is likly 7 computers that the system will look at and it's likly that there are many stored codes. Many of the problems stored are not real problems but somthing that happen sometime and is not always happening now. Keeping this idea in mind write down all the codes and what system reported them PCM, ABS, SRS, on thought the whole list. Even with alot of practise this can take alot of time and as the key in on and the cars turned off these can run down the battery so you need to think about the quality of the battery or have a battery charger hooked up, while doing this. If it turns out theirs a problem with the controller, You may be able to find it used at a wreaking yard or in an EBay store used. Thiers other reasons the car can heat and die. The head bolts are well known to pull out and need to be rethreaded ( major engine teardown). Northstars are good until their bad and when they start leaking internally, it's an uphill battle, and some very good mechanics can fix it but they don't always work at the dealer, If their that good they can make more and do what they want working for themselves. Most of the things I've went over require that your an experienced car maechanic and have worked on Cadillic's before. Finding the right mechanic to help you may require you to interveiw the professional parts salesmans that work in the back of auto parts stores selling to the professional shops in town they;ll know the mecanics that but these kind of parts and they do this kind of work. I hope you come across the right one as all this work if figgered out wrong or down wrong can cost alot of money and your car still won't be fixed.

Posted on Aug 08, 2010

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How hot does it get?A reference for the heat guage would be better if described middle of the guage,near the red(if there is red),about halfway between middle and maximum,etc if it is even moving.Also are your fluids fine?This is fairly odd.Please reply and we'll try to figure this out.

Posted on Aug 01, 2010

  • 26 more comments 
  • sacks424 Aug 01, 2010

    The Car has all digital read out with no gauge to read. I can only assume it would let me know if it was hot. According to the owners manual it will give a read out of coolant/engine over heating etc. Coolant level is fine, oil is fine and looks like new. Even the transmission fluid is fine and looks like new.

  • Greg McCarthy Aug 01, 2010

    I will have to do a little research and see what I can find.I will reply as soon as I have a probable cause.This is quite strange,yet there may be an easy fix(I hope),maybe not.With the all digital readout and no guage,that isn't a good idea for Cadillac.

  • sacks424 Aug 01, 2010

    ok thank you

  • Greg McCarthy Aug 01, 2010

    I have found a couple of Caddy forums that had problems simiar to yours,but not exact.The most likely causes which I have resoned from reading them is 1.The ignition module,not the ignition coil.It sounds like the module is underneath the coil. 2.The air intake or the sensor within that system.The sensor is called a mass airflow sensor and the intake,I am so flustered I cannot remember the name right now.MAP?I would say one of the 2 airflow answers would be more correct.Since when you are at high speed,there is alot of air being forced into the system and will result in smooth operation.When you are bumper to bumper,there is little airflow and would cause problems.First I would check the air filter if you already have not..If you have an Autozone where you live they will do a free computer check.I would have that done next if you do.If the ground screw in the ignition module is even just a little loose,it will cause misfire and bucking too.I check my air filter constantly and replace it between 20K-30K miles,need it or not.Clean unrestricted airflow is necessary for any engine.If your car is backfiring,bucking which you mentioned,it is more likely an ignition problem.I would like to know about how long you are in your car and the most common conditions when it stalls.If Autozone gets you a solution,they probably sell haynes or chilton repair manuals which you could just read through for your repair,sometimes the library has them for looking at,or buy one.They are usually $20-$25.Good luck and let me know what you can find out.If you have no Autozone,I know my local library has the books right down the street and could send you required stuff.

  • sacks424 Aug 02, 2010

    Drove to lunch about 10/12 min went in 2 min car running, came out started back and it started that. it bucks more because you have the gas mashed and it like cuts off and on if it is just idleing it does fine, i idled all the way down the road and acroos the parking lot without a catch as long as i didn't give it any gas. Is vapor lock a thing of the past? I had an old 76 pontiac that did that only it was vapor lock. Definetly heat related, summer in alabama after the 1st qtr mile run or around town playing to much. Of course I'm not racing the Caddy.

  • Greg McCarthy Aug 02, 2010

    Yeah,vapor lock pretty much is a thing of the past since fuel injection came around with 2 or 4 valves per cylinder and elimination of carbeurators.It also was very common in old airplanes before turboprop,when they had to rotate the propeller before startup.You may have seen it in some old WWII films/documentaries.But your new comments give me a better understanding of the symptoms.Vapor lock would also cause pretty loud misfires I am pretty sure.I live in FL and do not have heat issues with my 1995 Ford engine so just outside heat is not likely the cause either.Like I said,your new message will help very much.Thanks again.

  • sacks424 Aug 02, 2010

    Thanks get some rest,i seem to have the weird luck. mystery stuff, why not a leaky hose or something. It's all I got so @ least it get me back and forth to work. Will check tomorrow. BTW my name is Terry FYI

  • Greg McCarthy Aug 02, 2010

    From your last message it sounds like too much gas,not enough air.There is a sensor in the system called a mass air flow sensor.If that is bad,it will not be able to tell how much air is going in or how much it needs for proper mixing.It probably bucks a little too because of too much gas making a rich mixture.Do you smell gas like it is flooded when this bucking is occurring?Check the air filter to make sure it is clean.Even if you know it's clean,pull it out and check the air filter box and hose to the engine for cracks or leaks and solid connection of the hose.I am recommending this just to make sure everything is fine before you go replacing the sensor and it shouldn't take much time.I would say the sensor is more likely than the air intake unless it is severely cracked.If you would like,I can at least search for a way to test the sensor without a computer check if it's possible.

  • Greg McCarthy Aug 02, 2010

    I am usually up 'til about 1:00 anyways thanks.Nice to talk to you Terry,my name is Greg.

  • sacks424 Aug 02, 2010

    Haven't noticed any gas smell. I will check what you suggested today after work and get back with ya, thanks

  • sacks424 Aug 02, 2010

    Auto Zone does not list an mass air flow sensor. They do have a MAP sensor $42.95 is this basicallily the same thing??????

  • Greg McCarthy Aug 02, 2010

    Yes.Depending on the make,they have 2 different names but are basically the same.

  • Greg McCarthy Aug 02, 2010

    MAP is manifold air pressure.They are basically the same yes.It monitors airflow.

  • sacks424 Aug 02, 2010

    Drove to work no problem the last block coming home it hit again. someone suggested to disconnect the MAP sensor and drive it . I did and it made no difference.

  • Greg McCarthy Aug 03, 2010

    Are you able to replace it yourself?

  • sacks424 Aug 03, 2010

    Yes I could replace it myself, I also disconnected yesterdaywhen it was running fine and it made no difference either. Could this mean it is not working or not? Could this crazy thing have a malfunctioning temp sensor causing this? Let me know what ya think. Thanks

  • Greg McCarthy Aug 03, 2010

    A heat problem is not likely to cause this.It would just massively overheat,not buck and cool off and restart again.A temperature sensor just senses heat,would give you a high reading,but not stop the car,you would just blow your engine.You should try the MAP sensor.Unplugging it just makes it as if it's not even there and won't fix anything,same condition you have now with a shot one.It senses air pressure,and depending on how much gas you give the engine,adjusts the manifold to supply the appropriate air.

  • sacks424 Aug 03, 2010

    alrighty then, i'll give it a try and get back to you. Thanks for the insight. Say a prayer for me. Talk to you tomorrow, Terry

  • Greg McCarthy Aug 03, 2010

    All right Terrygood night and good luck.Talk to you tomorrow.

  • sacks424 Aug 03, 2010

    Ok I give Greg. I thought I knew where the MAP sensor was and took it off and into auto zone to realize that was not it. I have searched for the location to no avail. Do you know where this thing is located?

  • sacks424 Aug 03, 2010

    found the map sensor under the center engine intake cover it has no vacuum line hooked to it wierd no sign of on the area seem to be airtight could this be correct?

  • Greg McCarthy Aug 03, 2010

    It very well could be.I think the sensor would use the vacuum line as a reference comparing it to what is required and adjusting the manifold.

  • sacks424 Aug 03, 2010

    Ok here is what I did. Packed a big bag of ice and drove untill the problem started and got worse. I stopped got my big bag if ice mixed with water out of my chest and placed it on and somewhat around the coil pack/control module. Began to drive again the problem reversed itself slowly to no problem. Heat is my villian I think something in that is failing when hot now to guess what. suggestions which would be most guilty?

  • Greg McCarthy Aug 03, 2010

    Poop,turds and %$#@. Since they will not let you curse on here I had to write that.This is quite baffling.Anyhow,now you have proved that it is engine heat and not just outside heat.I have to think about it some more now :( I will try a couple of more forums too and reply as soon as I think I have a reason.Sorry we haven't gotten this figured yet.

  • sacks424 Aug 04, 2010

    well lthe ice deal isn't perfect but seems to help I found one coil pack that had a burnt terminal and replaced it. didn't do a thing. Just thought I'd let you know. Wasted that money. When it starts the dieing stuff i can just idle along and maybe give it just a feather of gas, any more andit bucks and may die. what a pain

  • Greg McCarthy Aug 04, 2010

    First of all,it stinks that you spent money on another part and didn't help.However,I have found an informational site about your engine.It looks like you should have the 4.6L right?I am going to give you the link and what I need you to do is go toward the bottom,where it says accessing diagnostic codes and do what it says if you already haven't,and see if we get a code.Also,I read the whole article and the only reference to an overheating problem in there was about if the PCM(powertrain control module)senses an overheat condition,it disables up to half the cylinders.It is the 2 paragraphs above where it says engine maintenance.That may explain your reduction of power,but you would think the computer would self-adjust to that and eliminate bucking. I still need to figure out what is causing the overheat and bucking.It's starting to look not too good though.Where you are placing the ice,I would imagine you can tell what the main source of heat is below that.So I guess run that test and pray.Let me know.Here's the link. Good luck.Greg

    http://www.aa1car.com/library/2002/us100...

  • sacks424 Aug 04, 2010

    will check it out, at work right now. I'm putting ice on the coil pack which is mounted on the ignition control module. this is all mounted above the valve cove At the back of the engine near the firewall. btw its 102 degrees here today greg, WOW thanks for the continued help and research, Terry

  • sacks424 Aug 04, 2010

    Have actually read that article before pulled some codes p032 p039 p052 p071 p095 p109 s055 s060 s061 The MAP sensor works had it checked. With the heat we are having had to basically coast home could just give it above idle throttle but made it, its only 102 degrees out hey just in case my e-mail is sacks424@yahoo.com may make communication easier than all the hoops I am jumping through, up to you. thanks again Hey could this crazy @#%^@# thing be starving for fuel?? wouldn't that be a hoot, how could i check?

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  • 2,030 Answers

Could be many thing....do you have any codes present?

How many miles?

are the fans coming on?

let me know and i'll get back to ya

Posted on Aug 01, 2010

  • sacks424 Aug 01, 2010

    Cooling fan(s) works . It has 120,000 miles on it. Codes are multiple including p032 p039 p052 p071 p095 p109 s055 s060 s061 hope this helps

  • Sean Wright
    Sean Wright Aug 01, 2010

    P032 ....................................................... Open MAP Sensor Signal

    P039 .............................. Torque Coverter Clutch (VCC) Engagement Problem

    P052 ............................................................. PCM Memory Reset

    P071 ...................................................... Intermittent MAP Signal

    P095 ........................................................ Engine Stall Detected

    P109................................................ Keep Alive Memory (KAM) Reset





    S055 .......................................... Resistor Module Short to Ground/Open

    S060 .............................................. Left Front Position Sensor Fault

    S061 ............................................. Right Front Position Sensor Fault





    First get either the MAP sensor replaced or the wiring repaired. Second have your coil(s) checked when they are hot and the car is stalling out to make sure they are not the issue. Also have the coil controller module checked out.



    Just something you might want to note....there is NO Northstar Engine persay...Northstar is a system consisting of the engine, transmission, driveline, and associate input sensors from the car.

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