Question about 2008 Scion Tc

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Do I need to open the bleeder valve to push the brake cylinder back in? Will it ruin the abs sensor if I don't let the fluid out of the bleeder valve instead of just pressing it back in?

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No but it may be a turn style with a brake tool it just turns in clock wise

Posted on Aug 01, 2010

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2007 MKX no soft brakes, push brakes to floor there is a swreal nose. had brake job doing same thing. Service tech bled lines,still doing same thing.Had 90000 mile service, now running rough.


Who did you have do the job? A friend or garage? Some brake jobs are tricky. You can't do them without a scanner connected to the car. If they didn't open the bleeder valves to push back the calipers, this could lead to problems also. I was taught to always open the bleeder valves to release the fluid, instead of pushing it back to the master cylinder. Even in the old cars(60'sand 70's). New cars, it's even more important to do this as it can blow the ABS pump seals.

May 25, 2015 | 2007 Lincoln MKX

1 Answer

When bleeding brakes the pedal doesn't go down after i open the bleeder screw but, fluid comes out?


It's bleeding by gravity. Here's what to do: you need a helper. Put a 2X4 or similar piece of wood or something under the brake pedal. Now have someone slowly pressing the pedal down, you open the bleed screw. When pedal hits bottom, have helper hold it there while you tighten bleeder. Repeat until no air bubbles come out of bleeder. Best practice is to put a small hose on bleed screw, and put end of hose into a small container partially filled with brake fluid, so the end of hose is submerged in fluid. When bleeder is opened, any trapped air in the system will come out as bubbles. No more bubbles, no more air in that part. Check brake reservoir, fill as needed, and move to next wheel. Never reuse brake fluid. Only brake fluid from a sealed container. Brake fluid readily attracts moisture, and that is bad.

Why do I say a piece of wood under the pedal? This will protect your brake master cylinder from possibly being ruined while bleeding.
Were you to push the brake pedal all the way to the floor, the push rod or piston in the master will travel beyond its normal movement. The inner seals then travel over a portion of the inner cylinder that never gets touched by the seals. Sometimes (often) a little layer of crud builds up there where the rod and seals never travel. Run the seal over that portion a few times and the seal will be ruined. Then you will need a new master cylinder.
Good luck. Oh, and if the master is ruined this way, you will know it quickly. Brake pedal won't hold, but will keep slowly going to the floor and little or no braking action.

Feb 02, 2014 | 1997 Geo Prizm

1 Answer

Bleeding 02 toyota sequoia


You have a helper pushing on the brake pedal when you open the bleeders? Is fluid coming out of the bleeders when you open them?

typically you will start at the right rear, then left rear, then right front, then left front. or work your way from the farthest bleeder to the nearest bleeder to the master cylinder. Make sure the reservoir does not go dry or you will have to start over.

It is possible that when you pushed the pedal to the floor the seals in the master when through some debris and where ruined.

Apr 11, 2013 | 2002 Toyota Sequoia

2 Answers

My breaks wont work after changing the front rotars, calipars and pads. I bleed all four breaks starting with the back passenger side then back drivers side then front passenger side then front drivers...


As a general rule, if you have ABS you might have to cycle the pumps and valves to purge the old fluid out of the unit. This is either done via a dealer scan tool, a purge valve/bleeder valve on the ABS unit, or a less than ethical way. Drive your car and heavily engage the ABS, you know what I'm talking about.
Then you will need to repeat the bleeding process that you have already done.
Normal non ABS brakes, bleed once.
ABS brakes, bleed, cycle then bleed again.

Aug 07, 2011 | Chrysler Cirrus Cars & Trucks

1 Answer

When driving my 2000 pontiac sunfire, I will use my brakes and sometimes they go to the floor and the car barely comes to a stop. Sometimes they work fine though. If I pump the brakes they work fine as...


try this ABS bleeding procedure:

WITHOUT TECH 1® OR T-100®

Do not place your foot on the brake pedal through this entire procedure unless specifically instructed to do so.
This method can only be used if the ABS warning lamp is not illuminated and not DTC's are present.
  1. Remove your foot from the brake pedal.
  2. Start the engine and allow it to run for at least 10 seconds while observing the ABS warning lamp.
  3. If the ABS warning lamp turned ON and stayed ON after about 10 seconds, the bleeding procedure must be stopped and a Tech 1® must be used to diagnose the ABS function.
  4. If the ABS warning lamp turned ON for about 3 seconds, then turned OFF and stayed OFF, turn the ignition OFF .
  5. Repeat Steps 1-4 one more time.
  6. The entire brake system should now be bled by following the guide or pressure bleeding procedure.

Manual Bleeding
See Figure 3
  1. Clean the master cylinder fluid reservoir cover and surrounding area, then remove the cover.
  2. Add fluid, if necessary to obtain a proper fluid level, then put the reservoir cover back on.
  3. Prime the ABS hydraulic modulator/master cylinder assembly as follows:
    1. Attach a bleeder hose to the rearward bleeder valve, then submerge the opposite hose end in a clean container partially filled with clean brake fluid.
    2. Slowly open the rearward bleeder valve.
    3. Depress and hold the brake pedal until the fluid begins to flow.
    4. Close the valve, then release the brake pedal.
    5. Repeat Steps 3b-3d until no air bubbles are present.
    6. Relocate the bleeder hose to the forward hydraulic modulator bleeder valve, then repeat Steps 3a-3e.

  4. Once the fluid is seen to flow from both modulator bleeder valves, the ABS modulator/master cylinder assembly is sufficiently full of fluid. However, it may not be completely purged of air. At this point, move to the wheel brakes and bleed them. This ensures that the lowest points in the system are completely free of air and then the assembly can purged of any remaining air.
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Fig. Fig. 3: ABS hydraulic modulator/master cylinder bleeder locations

  1. Remove the fluid reservoir cover. Fill to the correct level, if necessary, then fasten the cover.
  2. Raise and safely support the vehicle.
  3. Proceed, as outlined in the following steps, to bleed the wheel brakes in the following sequence: right rear, left rear, right front, then left front.
    1. Attach a clear plastic bleeder hose to the bleeder valve at the wheel, then submerge the opposite hose end in a clean container partially filled with clean brake fluid.
    2. Open the bleeder valve.
    3. Have an assistant slowly depress the brake pedal.
    4. Close the valve and slowly release the release the brake pedal.
    5. Wait 5 seconds.
    6. Repeat Steps 7a-7e until the brake pedal feels firm at half travel and no air bubbles are observed in the bleeder hose. To assist in freeing the entrapped air, tap lightly on the caliper or braking plate to dislodge any trapped air bubbles.

  4. Repeat Step 7 for the remaining brakes in the sequence given earlier.
  5. Carefully lower the vehicle.
  6. Remove the reservoir cover, then fill to the correct level with brake fluid and replace the cap.
  7. Bleed the ABS hydraulic modulator/master cylinder assembly as follows:
    1. Attach a clear plastic bleeder hose to the rearward bleeder valve on the modulator, then submerge the opposite hose end in a clean container partially filled with clean brake fluid.
    2. Have an assistant depress the brake pedal with moderate force.
    3. Slowly open the rearward bleeder valve and allow the fluid to flow.
    4. Close the valve, then release the brake pedal.
    5. Wait 5 seconds.
    6. Repeat Steps 11a-11e until no air bubbles are present.
    7. Relocate the bleeder hose to the forward hydraulic modulator bleeder valve, then repeat Steps 11a-11f.

  8. Carefully lower the vehicle, then check the brake fluid and add if necessary. Don't forget to put the reservoir cap back on.
  9. With the ignition turned to the RUN position, apply the brake pedal with moderate force and hold it. Note the pedal travel and feel. If the pedal feels firm and constant and the pedal travel is not excessive, start the engine. With the engine running, recheck the pedal travel. If it's still firm and constant and pedal travel is not excessive, road test the vehicle and make sure the brakes are operating properly.
  10. If the pedal feels soft or has excessive travel either initially or after the engine is started, the following procedure may be used:
    1. With the Tech 1® scan tool, Release then Apply each motor 2-3 times and cycle each solenoid 5-10 times. When finished, be sure to Apply the front and rear motors to ensure the pistons are in the upmost position. DO NOT DRIVE THE VEHICLE.
    2. If a Tech 1® scan tool is not available, remove your foot from the brake pedal, start the engine and allow it run for at least 10 seconds to initialize the ABS. DO NOT DRIVE THE VEHICLE. After 10 seconds, turn the ignition OFF . The initialization procedure most be repeated 5 times to ensure any trapped air has been dislodged.
    3. Repeat the bleeding procedure, starting with Step 1.

  11. Road test the vehicle, and make sure the brakes are operating properly.

Oct 12, 2010 | 2000 Pontiac Sunfire

1 Answer

I hve a 96 chevy 1500 4wd with brake issues. ABS light is on in the dash. Have replaced both frt calipers, pads, hoses. Replaced rear brakes and drums. Replaced master cylinder. Bled two quarts of...


you may have air trapped in the ABS EHCU. Did you use this procedure?

Bleeding the EHCU

Bleeding the EHCU requires the use of the TECH-1 scanner or its equivalent and the appropriate cartridge. Additionally, 3 tools, J-39177 or equivalent, are required. Bleeding cannot be performed without this equipment.
The EHCU must be bled after replacement or if air is trapped within the unit. It must be bled after bleeding the master cylinder and before bleeding the individual wheel circuits.
The Internal Bleed Valves on either side of the unit must be opened 1 / 4 - 1 / 2 turn before bleeding begins. These valves open internal passages within the unit. Actual bleeding is performed at the two bleeders on the front of the EHCU module. The bleeders must not be opened when the system is not pressurized. The ignition switch must be OFF or false trouble codes may be set.
  1. Open the internal bleed valve 1 / 4 - 1 / 2 turn each.
  2. Install one tool J-39177 on the left bleed stem of the EHCU. Install one tool on the right bleed stem and install the third tool on the combination valve.
  3. Inspect the fluid level in the master cylinder, filling if needed.
  4. Slowly depress the brake pedal and hold it down.
  5. Open the left bleeder on the front of the unit. Allow fluid to flow until no air is seen or until the brake pedal bottoms.
  6. Close the left bleeder, then slowly release the pedal. Wait 15 seconds.
  7. Repeat Steps 4, 5 and 6, including the 15 second wait, until no air is seen in the fluid.
  8. Tighten the left internal bleed valve to 5 ft. lbs. (7 Nm).
  9. Repeat Steps 3-7 at the right bleeder on the front of the unit.
  10. When bleeding of the right port is complete, tighten the right internal bleed valve to 5 ft. lbs. (7 Nm).
  11. Remove the 3 special tools.
  12. Check the master cylinder fluid level, refilling as necessary.
  13. Bleed the individual brake circuits at each wheel.
  14. Switch the ignition ON . Use the hand scanner to perform 3 function tests on the system.
  15. Carefully test drive the vehicle at moderate speeds; check for proper pedal feel and brake operation. If any problem is noted in feel or function, repeat the entire bleeding procedure.

Oct 10, 2010 | Chevrolet 1500 Cars & Trucks

4 Answers

When compressing the front brake calipers do you need to relieve the pressure by releasing the bleeder valve or can you just compress piston in slowly so you won't damage the release valve on the abs?


no you dont have to open bleeder,you will not mess anything up i do it all day long, the reason for opening the bleeder is so they say you dont push debris from caliper into abs, but every time you step on the brake and release it fluid is flow in and out of abs, if you feel better by opening bleeder go ahead youll just have to bleed brakes when your done , good luck, hope this is helpful.

Nov 13, 2009 | 2005 Subaru Forester

3 Answers

I got the old pads off but cannot get the caliper back on. The rod will not go back into the rubber boot.


You will need a larger sized C clamp to slowly push the caliper back into its boot. Make sure your brake fluid reservoir kid is OFF,..allowing for the fluid to go back into the reservoir. Once you have placed the C clamp around the caliper, take an old brake pad and place it across the round piston...place part of the clamp over this pad and tighten the clamp..Do not place the clamp directly on the piston, you may damage it or compress it in crooked. so place a used pad across it. Push the piston back in untill its almost flush with the boot, making sure no dirt is on the silver exposed piston..u dont want dirt to go back inside the boot. Once its in, refit the caliper to its mount with the new pads.

Sep 12, 2009 | 1999 Ford Expedition

2 Answers

Dash break light staying on


un plug the module under the master cylinder and see if brake lamp goes out...if light goes out you may have a rear abs problem..hope this helps you!!

Sep 04, 2009 | 1992 Chevrolet K1500

1 Answer

1998 Chevrolet Malibu -- ABS and Brake light on.


If when changing the brakes you pushed fluid back into the master cylinder it may have affected the abs sensor with the reverse flow. I have seen this happen before.

Oct 19, 2008 | 1998 Chevrolet Malibu

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