Question about 2003 Ford F150 Regular Cab

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What is the voltage reading at the starter for

Ford F-150 5.4L - Engine will not crank or even jump start. Battery voltage is 12.57. Gauges in vehicle go crazy when I turn the key to start. It makes the sound of a silinode jumping.

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The solenoid may be activating but it sounds like the copper busbar inside the solenoid is arced out and not making good contact. A new solenoid should fix your problem.

Posted on Jul 31, 2010

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The gauge symptoms are what normally happen when the battery has been disconnected, or the battery is low.
12.57 is a marginal battery that could be the cause of the starter motor relay not working correctly.
The other route is the low battery coupled with corrosion on the lugs at the battery and/or the starter.
I would start with checking the battery connections for corrosion, and having the battery tested to see if it will handle the load the starter motor puts on it.

Posted on Aug 14, 2010

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1999 plymouth breeze 2.0 l battery and alternator are good but the engien wont crank unless you jump start it


You have to make sure battery has a full charge and that means testing. Your saying the starter motor won't even crank the engine? I'd have to check starter wiring circuits for voltage drop?Also, make sure battery connections are good. Engine cranking, your systems get battery voltage. Engine running, the vehicle system get generator voltage which can be several volts higher than battery voltage.
Use a digital multimeter across battery posts, everything off, what is the reading, the generic spec for a full charge is around 12.6 volts. Leave the meter leads hooked up, have helper turn key to crank, what is the reading, how far does it drop? The generic spec says it shouldn't drop below 9.6 volts, that spec may be subjective but, close.

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I have a 1998 Ford F-150. It will not start. Battery seems to be ok. Lights, radio, and horn works well. Had alternator changed about 3 years ago. Thinking that the starter may be the trouble.


Check starter relay ,Right rear of engine compartment .Test for B+ voltage on the small wire while some one tries starting the vehicle . If there isn't B+ voltage there Check park neutral switch . You could jump B+ voltage to the termanial the small wire connects to .If starter is good it would crank the engine .

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Silverado will not start


https://s7.postimg.org/43v831vcr/silverado_starter.jpg

Click on the link.
I tried to get everything on one page, makes it a little small to read. Check for voltage and ground at the starter motor. Any testing make sure tranny is in park or neutral and parking brake is set. Two voltage circuits, one comes from the battery, hot all the time. The other voltage circuit goes hot with key in the crank position and the starter relay energized, goes to starter S terminal. The neutral or clutch switch is also involved in that circuit. Use a test light to check for voltage. The starter motor is grounded through engine block. Make sure battery has a full charge. When you check fuses, also, use a test light and check voltage on fuse circuit, applicable fuses.

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Why won't my 2012 Suzuki Grand Vitara start?


ill answer for NO ELECTRICAL POWER :
sure and is easy with any DMM meter, got one? any $20 DMM.
my guess;1
engine will not crank
dash lamps out.
head lights out. dead.
post systems of electrical system , all parts that work and those that dont work, and problem is easy.
cleaned battery terminals.
tried borrowed battery that reads, 12.6vdc ? (charged is 12.6)
2012 that is in warranty car.... ?
my guess on 2012
jumping a car, that is battery jump starting.
a battery can short, and no jump start on earth will start shorted battery in car. but does lay down some big sparks, or burns up cheap walmart cables.
if the car will not crank, say just that, my starter motor will not crank
jump started from live running other car.
if true then make sure headlights work , if they dont work fix that first.
HL must always work, even keys in pocket.
best is to put a fully charged battery in the car, jump starting can cause
surges that can damage sensitive electronic$$$, do jumps as a desperate measure,
with a charged battery,
1: Head lights work, no fix that , use voltmeter
2: cranks robustly.
no , wiggle shifter lever, (on A/T cars the park switch blocks cranking) On M/T the clutch blocks cranking.
with any dMM
measure battery voltage before crank and during.
12.6v good. reseted.
cranking.
0 to 10v bad (weak battery or shorted starter motor)
11 and above good. and must crank, if not , starter is bad.
to prove starter is bad, check voltage at starter solenoid coil wire lug.
it must be at 11v cranking , below 8v it chatters, and fails.
if at 0v cranking this lug that means the Key start line is failing.
A/T switch not closes, or bad ignition switch.

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1 Answer

Switch is on, turn key, no signal to starter, no click no contack


COMMON CAUSES OF NO-CRANK NO-START

Low battery (Check battery voltage, recharge if low, or jump start with another vehicle or battery charger).
Loose or corroded battery cables (Inspect, clean and tighten BOTH ends of BOTH battery cables).
Bad starter relay wiring connections or ground connection (Inspect, clean, tighten wiring connections).
Bad starter relay/solenoid (Check for voltage at relay, if relay has voltage but there is no "click" when key is turned to start, replace relay).
Bad starter (Jump battery voltage direct to starter to see if it spins, or remove starter and have it bench tested at auto parts store).
Damaged starter drive or teeth on flywheel (Remove starter and inspect drive gear and flywheel teeth, replace damaged parts if necessary).
Bad ignition switch (Check to see if voltage reaches starter relay/solenoid when turn to start. If not, check for open P/N switch and brake or clutch pedal switch. Replace ignition switch if defective).
Open P/N safety switch, or open Brake Pedal Safety Switch (automatic transmission) or open Clutch Pedal Switch (manual transmission). Bypass switch with jumper wire to see if engine cranks, or use test light or voltmeter to check for voltage passing through switch when ignition is turned to start.
Engine seized due to bearing failure or internal damage (Use socket and long handle to see if engine can be turned by hand, if not engine is locked up).
Engine hydrolocked due to coolant leak from leaky head gasket (Use socket and wrench to see if engine rotates, remove spark plugs and see if coolant comes out or engine can not be cranked with plugs out).

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I just installed fuel pump in my 2002 ford escape the pump now work but the egine will not roll over but the battery is fine i out in my new car and it started that


There are several possible issues depending on what you have happening such as - is it cranking over or not. Ford used their wonderful passive security systems on these years of vehicles which can be a real pain. If you use a test light and are getting power to the starter switch (small wire on starter solenoid) when friend turns key to start but it is still not turning over then starter is not functioning. If your interior lights and dash lights all work when key is turned to on but everything goes off when you turn key to "start" position try cleaning battery terminals. If terminals clean or even better if terminals clean and you jump with jump box or jumper cables and it still not cranking check with test light as mentioned above and if no power to start switch check relay in underhood fuse box. Swap the "starter" one with one from fan or other of same size and see if starter will now turn. If you can turn the key on and hear the fuel pump turn on (buzz or whine from rear) and the engine cranks over trying to start but will not - it may be the passive security system. The chip in key or the reader for it may have died. Each key is $75+ and if you do not have two good keys they (Ford Dealer) will charge you for making two keys and activation fees - Total $300 - plus getting the vehicle towed in. The vehicles computer tests many sensors before letting vehicle actually start so it is normal for it to crank for a few seconds before it actually fires. If it senses something wrong in that first few turns like no crank or cam sensor reading it will not allow vehicle to start. You can read codes with a code reader for this by testing with key on and not running.

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2 Answers

I drove my 1999 accord EX to work & 8 hrs. later I tried to start it and it did nothing. Tried jumping still nothing. Put new battery on and it still did nothing.What is the problem?


Hi, diagnosing a no-start condition requires a logical approach to figuring out what might be preventing your car from starting. First, if the engine won't even crank over when you turn the ignition to START, your car obviously won't start.
When you turn the ignition key to start your car, voltage from the battery flows through the ignition switch to the Park/Neutral safety switch and/or brake pedal or clutch pedal safety switch (you have to push the pedal down before the circuit will complete) to the starter relay or solenoid. When the relay or solenoid is energized by voltage from the ignition switch circuit, it closes a contact that routes more power from the battery directly to the starter to crank the engine. The starter motor spins, pushes the starter drive gear to engage the flywheel and cranks the engine.

If the engine fails to crank, there is a fault in one of the components in the battery/ignition/starter circuit.

Ten Reasons why you car won't start..
  1. Low battery (Check battery voltage, recharge if low, or jump start with another vehicle or battery charger).
  2. Loose or corroded battery cables (Inspect, clean and tighten BOTH ends of BOTH battery cables).
  3. Bad starter relay wiring connections or ground connection (Inspect, clean, tighten wiring connections).
  4. Bad starter relay/solenoid (Check for voltage at relay, if relay has voltage but there is no "click" when key is turned to start, replace relay).
  5. Bad starter (Jump battery voltage direct to starter to see if it spins, or remove starter and have it bench tested at auto parts store).
  6. Damaged starter drive or teeth on flywheel (Remove starter and inspect drive gear and flywheel teeth, replace damaged parts if necessary).
  7. Bad ignition switch (Check to see if voltage reaches starter relay/solenoid when turn to start. If not, check for open P/N switch and brake or clutch pedal switch. Replace ignition switch if defective).
  8. Open P/N safety switch, or open Brake Pedal Safety Switch (automatic transmission) or open Clutch Pedal Switch (manual transmission). Bypass switch with jumper wire to see if engine cranks, or use test light or voltmeter to check for voltage passing through switch when ignition is turned to start.
  9. Engine seized due to bearing failure or internal damage (Use socket and long handle to see if engine can be turned by hand, if not engine is locked up).
  10. Engine hydrolocked due to coolant leak from leaky head gasket (Use socket and wrench to see if engine rotates, remove spark plugs and see if coolant comes out or engine can not be cranked with plugs out).

Hope it helps identify and solve the problem

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1 Answer

I have a 2003 Saturan Ion that won't start


Hi, this is what you should do when your car won't start. Diagnosing a no-start condition requires a logical approach to figuring out what might be preventing your car from starting. First, if the engine won't even crank over when you turn the ignition to START, your car obviously won't start.
When you turn the ignition key to start your car, voltage from the battery flows through the ignition switch to the Park/Neutral safety switch and/or brake pedal or clutch pedal safety switch (you have to push the pedal down before the circuit will complete) to the starter relay or solenoid. When the relay or solenoid is energized by voltage from the ignition switch circuit, it closes a contact that routes more power from the battery directly to the starter to crank the engine. The starter motor spins, pushes the starter drive gear to engage the flywheel and cranks the engine.

If the engine fails to crank, there is a fault in one of the components in the battery/ignition/starter circuit. Check it out.....
  • Low battery (Check battery voltage, recharge if low, or jump start with another vehicle or battery charger).
  • Loose or corroded battery cables (Inspect, clean and tighten BOTH ends of BOTH battery cables).
  • Bad starter relay wiring connections or ground connection (Inspect, clean, tighten wiring connections).
  • Bad starter relay/solenoid (Check for voltage at relay, if relay has voltage but there is no "click" when key is turned to start, replace relay).
  • Bad starter (Jump battery voltage direct to starter to see if it spins, or remove starter and have it bench tested at auto parts store).
  • Damaged starter drive or teeth on flywheel (Remove starter and inspect drive gear and flywheel teeth, replace damaged parts if necessary).
  • Bad ignition switch (Check to see if voltage reaches starter relay/solenoid when turn to start. If not, check for open P/N switch and brake or clutch pedal switch. Replace ignition switch if defective).
  • Open P/N safety switch, or open Brake Pedal Safety Switch (automatic transmission) or open Clutch Pedal Switch (manual transmission). Bypass switch with jumper wire to see if engine cranks, or use test light or voltmeter to check for voltage passing through switch when ignition is turned to start.
  • Engine seized due to bearing failure or internal damage (Use socket and long handle to see if engine can be turned by hand, if not engine is locked up).
  • Engine hydrolocked due to coolant leak from leaky head gasket (Use socket and wrench to see if engine rotates, remove spark plugs and see if coolant comes out or engine can not be cranked with plugs out).

Dec 02, 2010 | 2003 Saturn ION

1 Answer

94 ford explorer, starter won't turn


If you have the proper voltage at the starter, (battery voltage) and the starter won't turn, it is the starter or the engine. Try turning the engine over with a wrench on the harmonic balancer.

Jun 22, 2009 | 1994 Ford Explorer Limited

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