Question about 1974 Cadillac Eldorado

1 Answer

Hello. I'm having a problem re-installing the new CV joints because the right and left lower control arms are too far down for proper installation of the CV joint. I have a jack stand under each lower control arm (supports the vehicle weight) but I can't raise them up high enough for proper alignment. What am I doing wrong? Do I lessen the tension on the tortion bars which will enable me to raise the lower control arms? The 2 CV joints that I purchased - the drive axle end of the CV joint - one is shaped with six points, and the other is completely round. Can I use each one? Does it matter? I would appreciate your quick response

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  • Cadillac Master
  • 6,826 Answers

RIGHT DRIVE AXLE

  1. Remove the negative battery cable and the wheel disc.
  2. If the halfshaft is to be removed, release the cotter pin and loosen but do not remove the spindle nut.
  3. Raise the car at the lower control arms.
  4. Loosen but do not remove the right front shock absorber lower mounting nut. Then pry the shock absorber along the lower mounting stud until it reaches the nut. Do not remove the shock absorber from the lower mount.
  5. To keep the torsion bar connectors from being damaged, cover them with a short length of rubber hose.
  6. Remove the screws securing the halfshaft to the output shaft.
  7. Position the inside end of the halfshaft toward the starter motor to gain access to the output shaft. Then remove the screw which supports the output shaft to the final drive housing.
  8. Remove the two screws which support the right output shaft support to the engine.
  9. Remove the output shaft, support and strut as an assembly in the following manner.
    1. Slide the output shaft outward to disengage the splines.
    2. Move the inside end of the assembly forward and downward until it is clear of the car.
  10. If the halfshaft is to be removed, use the following procedure.
    1. Using a hammer and a wooden block tap the end of the halfshaft to unseat the axle at the hub. NOTE: The spindle nut should be loosened but not removed.
    2. Rotate the axle inward and toward the front of the car positioning the axle over the front crossmember and out from under the car. WARNING
      Care must be exercised so that constant velocity joints do not turn to full extremes, and that seals are not damaged against shock absorber or stabilizer bar. To install:
  11. Carefully place right hand halfshaft assembly into lower control arm and enter outer race splines into knuckle.
  12. Lubricate final drive output shaft seal with wheel bearing grease.
  13. Install right hand output shaft into final drive and attach the support bolts to engine and brace. Torque the bolts to 50 ft. lbs. (68 Nm).
  14. Install brace.
  15. Move right hand halfshaft assembly toward front of car and align with right hand output shaft. Install attaching bolts and torque to 65 ft. lbs. (88 Nm).
  16. Install washer and nut on halfshaft.
  17. Remove the jack stands and lower the vehicle.
  18. Tighten wheel lugs to 130 ft. lbs. (176 Nm); drive axle nut to 110 ft. lbs. (149 Nm). Install cotter pin. NOTE: Align the hole by tightening the nut.
LEFT DRIVE AXLE
  1. Hoist car under the lower control arms.
  2. Remove wheel and tire.
  3. Remove halfshaft cotter pin, nut and washer.
  4. Install a piece of rubber hose over lower control arm torsion bar connector.
  5. Remove six halfshaft-to-output shaft screws and washers.
  6. Loosen upper shock mounting bolt.
  7. Remove upper control arm ball joint cotter pin and nut.
  8. Using hammer and brass drift, drive on knuckle until upper ball joint stud is free.
  9. Remove brake hose bracket.
  10. Tip upper part of knuckle and support outward so that brake hose is not damaged.
  11. Carefully guide the halfshaft assembly outward. Remove left output shaft retaining bolt by installing two screws in the shaft flange to prevent shaft rotation. Pull the shaft straight out toward side of car. NOTE: Care must be exercised so that constant velocity joints do not turn to full extremes and that seals are not damaged against shock absorber or stabilizer bar.
  12. To install, reverse removal procedure. Tighten output shaft retaining bolt to 50 ft. lbs. (68 Nm), upper ball joint stud nut to 60 ft. lbs. (81 Nm), upper shock absorber bolt to 75 ft. lbs. (102 Nm). Tighten wheel lug nuts to 130 ft. lbs. (176 Nm) Tighten halfshaft nut to 110 ft. lbs. (149 Nm).
----

Posted on Jul 31, 2010

  • 2 more comments 
  • Duane Wong
    Duane Wong Jul 31, 2010

    In my experience loosening the torsion bar is helpful and it would help to have a helper use a long prybar to try to get the lower control arm into position



    I'm not sure about the 6 point vs. round thing. Are you talking about the right vs. left halfshaft? .

  • pamt55 Jul 31, 2010

    Thanks for the information. I do have the CV joints installed now. The CV joints I received are identical except for the hub that hooks up to the final drive in the transmission. One is round and the other is - for lack of a better description - six-pointed. This one has a GM number and the other one does not. But they both fit the bolt hole patterns. Will the car operate properly with the two different styles installed?



  • Duane Wong
    Duane Wong Jul 31, 2010

    I think it should work as long as the lengths are right and they're balanced on the axis. Whether it's round or hexagonal shouldn't make a difference as long as it clears everything.



  • johne308
    johne308 Nov 26, 2012

    Thank you so much for the post! I just replaced the right half-shaft on my 1978 Eldorado today. One edit, instead of removing the ouput shaft, simply remove the starter and the half-shaft will slide right out

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1 Answer

How to remove axle from front of 1998 windstar


  1. Raise and support the vehicle safely.
  2. Remove the front wheels.
  3. Insert a steel rod into the brake rotor to prevent the rotor from turning and loosen the axle wheel hub nut. Discard the nut.
  4. Remove the ball joint-to-front wheel knuckle retaining nut. Drive the bolt out of the front wheel knuckle using a punch and hammer.
  5. Remove the front brake anti-lock sensor and position it out of the way.
  6. Separate the ball joint from the front wheel knuckle using a prybar. Position the end of the prybar outside of the bushing pocket to avoid damage to the bushing.
Use care to prevent damage to the front wheel driveshaft joint boot.
  1. Remove the stabilizer bar link at the front stabilizer bar.
Make sure the CV-joint puller does not contact the transaxle shaft speed sensor. Damage to the sensor will result.
  1. Install a CV-Joint Puller (T86P-3514-A1) or equivalent between the inboard CV-joint and the transaxle case.
  2. Install a CV-Joint Extension (T86P-3514-A2) or equivalent into the puller and hand-tighten.
  3. Using an impact slide hammer, remove the driveshaft from the transaxle.
Do not allow the front wheel driveshaft and joint to hang unsupported. Damage to the front wheel driveshaft joint may result. Do not wrap wire around the front wheel driveshaft joint boot. Damage to the boot may result.
  1. Support the end of the driveshaft and joint assembly by suspending it from the chassis using a length of wire.
Never use a hammer to separate the outboard front wheel driveshaft joint from the wheel hub. Damage to the outboard front wheel driveshaft joint threads and internal components may result.
  1. Separate the outboard front wheel driveshaft joint from the wheel hub using a Front Hub Remover/Replacer (T81P-1104-C) or equivalent. Make sure the hub remover adapter is fully threaded onto the hub stud.
Do not move the vehicle without the outboard CV-joint properly installed, as damage to the bearing may occur.
  1. Remove the front wheel driveshaft and joint assembly from the vehicle.
To install:
Do not reuse the retainer circlip. A new circlip must be installed each time the inboard CV-joint stub shaft is installed into the transaxle differential.
  1. Install a new retainer circlip on the inboard CV-joint stub shaft by starting one end in the groove and working the retainer circlip over the inboard shaft housing end and into the groove. This will avoid overexpanding the circlip.
A non-metallic mallet may be used to aid in seating the retainer circlip into the differential side gear groove. If a mallet is necessary, tap only on the outboard CV-joint stub shaft.
  1. Carefully align the splines of the inboard CV-joint stub shaft housing with the splines in the differential. Exerting some force, push the inboard CV-joint stub shaft housing into the differential until the retainer circlip is felt to seat in the differential side gear. Use care to prevent damage to the inboard CV-joint stub shaft and transaxle seal.
  2. Carefully align the splines of the outboard front wheel driveshaft joint with the splines in the wheel hub, and push the shaft into the wheel hub as far as possible.
  3. Temporarily fasten the front disc brake rotor to the wheel hub with washers and two lug nuts. Insert a steel rod into the front disc brake rotor and rotate clockwise to contact the front wheel knuckle, to prevent the front disc brake rotor from turning during front wheel driveshaft and joint installation.
A new front axle wheel hub retaining nut must be installed.
  1. Manually thread the front axle wheel hub retaining nut onto the outboard CV-joint stub shaft housing as far as possible.
A new bolt and nut must be used to connect the front suspension arm to the knuckle.
  1. Connect the front suspension lower arm to the front wheel knuckle. Tighten the nut and bolt to 40-55 ft. lbs. (54-74 Nm).
  2. Install the front brake anti-lock sensor.
  3. Connect the front stabilizer bar link and tighten to 35-45 ft. lbs. (47-65 Nm).
Do not use power or impact tools to tighten the hub nut.
  1. Tighten the front axle wheel hub retaining nut to 157-212 ft. lbs. (213-287 Nm).
  2. Install the front wheels and lower the vehicle.
  3. Using the recommended type of fluid, fill the transaxle to the proper level.

Jul 07, 2014 | 1998 Ford Windstar

1 Answer

Ball joint repair and how do you do it


To perform the following procedure, the lower control arm must be removed from the vehicle. Refer to Removal And Installation for that procedure.

  1. Using a screw driver or other suitable tool, pry the seal boot off of the ball joint assembly
  2. Position receiving cup, Special Tool 6758 to support lower control arm when removing ball joint assembly. Install Remover, Special Tool 6919 on the top of the ball joint assembly.
  3. Using the arbor press, press the ball joint assembly completely out of the lower control arm.

NOTE: When installing ball joint in lower control arm, position the ball joint in control arm so notch in ball joint stud is in the direction shown. This will ease assembly of the ball joint to the steering when installing pinch bolt.

  1. By hand, position ball joint into ball joint bore of lower control arm. Be sure ball joint is not cocked in the bore of the control arm, this will cause the ball joint to bind when being pressed into control arm.

 

  1. Position control arm with installed ball joint, in an arbor press with Receiving Cup, Special Tool 6758 supporting the lower control arm. Then center Installer, Special Tool 6908-4 on the bottom of the ball joint
  2. Carefully align all pieces. Then press the ball joint into the lower control arm until it is completely seated against surface of lower control arm. The ball joint is correctly installed when there is no gap between the ball joint and the lower control arm. Do not apply excessive force against the ball joint or the lower control arm.
  3. Install a NEW seal boot by hand as far as possible on the ball joint. Installation of the seal boot is to be with the shield positioned as shown.

CAUTION: Do not use an arbor press to install the sealing boot on the ball joint. Damage to the sealing boot will occur if excessive pressure is applied to the sealing boot when it is being installed.

  1. Place Installer, Special Tool 6758 over seal boot and squarely align it with bottom edge of seal boot. Apply hand pressure to Special Tool 6758 until seal boot is pressed squarely against top surface of lower control arm.

CAUTION: A replacement ball joint is not pre-lubricated. Properly lubricate the replacement ball joint using Mopar Multi-Mile grease or an equivalent. Lubricate ball joint after seal boot is installed but prior to top of seal boot being pushed down below notch in ball joint stud. Air must vent out of the seal boot at notch when grease is pumped into ball joint, failure to do so will balloon and damage seal boot. Do not over grease the ball joint, this will prevent the seal boot from pushing down on the stud of the ball joint.

CAUTION: After the ball joint is properly greased, clip the end of the grease fleeing off below the hex. The ball joint seal boot is non-purgeable and further greasing is not required and can result in damage to the seal boot.

  1. Reinstall lower control arm on vehicle.

Mar 07, 2011 | 2000 Dodge Caravan

1 Answer

Replace lower ball joints. How do you replace Lower ball jonits?


REMOVAL & INSTALLATION
  1. Raise and safely support the vehicle, allowing the front suspension to hang free.
  2. Remove the wheel and tire assembly. WARNING
    Be careful when working in the area of the CV-joint boot. Damage to the boot could result in eventual CV-joint failure. If necessary, install CV-joint boot protector tool J-34754 or equivalent, to protect the boot.
  3. On Eldorado and Seville with 4.6L engine, remove the road sensing suspension position sensor from the lower control arm.
  4. Remove the cotter pin and nut from the ball joint stud. Use ball joint separator tool J-36226 or equivalent, on Deville and Fleetwood or ball joint separator tool J-35315 or equivalent, on Eldorado and Seville, to separate the ball joint from the steering knuckle.
  5. On Deville and Fleetwood, loosen the stabilizer bar link nut.
    1. Drill out the 3 rivets retaining the ball joint to the lower control arm and remove the ball joint. NOTE: Recommended drill-bit is 1⁄2 inch (13 mm). Fig. 1: Drilling the rivets out of the lower control arm 91048g05.gif
      Fig. 2: Installing the bolts in the lower control arm 91048g06.gif
      To install:
  6. Attach the new ball joint to the lower control arm with 3 mounting bolts and nuts.
    1. On Deville and Fleetwood, the bolts must be installed from the top of the control arm.
    2. On Eldorado and Seville, the bolts must be installed from the bottom of the control arm
    3. Tighten the nuts to 50 ft. lbs. (68 Nm).
    4. On Catera, the bolts must be installed from the top of the control arm.
    5. Tighten the nuts to 26 ft. lbs. (35 Nm).
  7. On Deville and Fleetwood, tighten the stabilizer bar link nut to 13 ft. lbs. (17 Nm).
  8. Connect the ball joint to the steering knuckle and install the castellated nut.
  9. On Deville and Fleetwood, tighten the ball joint nut to 88 inch lbs. (10 Nm). Then tighten the nut an additional 120°, during which a tighten of 41 ft. lbs. (55 Nm) must be obtained.
  10. On Eldorado and Seville, tighten the ball joint nut to 84 inch lbs. (10 Nm). Then tighten the nut an additional 120°, during which a minimum torque of 37 ft. lbs. (50 Nm) must be obtained. If the minimum torque is not obtained, check for stripped threads. If the threads are okay, replace the ball joint and knuckle.
  11. On Catera, tighten the pinch bolt to 74 ft. lb. (100 Nm).
  12. Install a new cotter pin. If the cotter pin cannot be installed because the hole in the stud does not align with a nut castellation, tighten the nut up to an additional 60°to allow for installation. NEVER loosen the nut to provide for cotter pin installation.
  13. On Eldorado and Seville with 4.6L engine, install the road sensing suspension position sensor to the lower control arm.
  14. If necessary, remove the CV-joint boot protector tool.
  15. Install the wheel and tire assembly and lower the vehicle. Fig. 3: Separating the ball joint from the steering knuckle 84208016.gif
    Fig. 4: Lower ball joint installation - Deville and Fleetwood 84208017.gif
    Fig. 5: Lower ball joint installation - Eldorado and Seville 84208018.gif

Jan 17, 2011 | 1991 Cadillac DeVille

1 Answer

2000 gmc z71 passenger side cv joint is making noise when i turn......i talk to napa and can get rebuilt for 60$.....but to take it apart....do i need ball joint separator.....what tools..????


Never use a tool myself other than a big hammer. Those forks don't work for me, though we have them. Hit the joint on the side and it will pop out. If not, you can always put the nut back on even with the ball stud and hit it from the bottom. The book also calls for a special tool to get the axle out of the hub. Have never used this either. If it doesn't slide out, I just hit it--I have a new one anyway (take it loose from the tranny before hitting it). Tools you will need are the big socket for the axle nut (around 22mm or so) and regular metric socket set, preferably 1/2 in drive. Also take the speed sensor and brake lines off the support bracket to free up the hub a little more. Note that you may need to also separate the tie rod end if you cannot otherwise swing the hub out far enough to get the shaft out. The book says to take off the stabilizer and shock and also separate the upper ball joint. I don't know if that's necessary or not, as I have not done one on this particular truck. You are doing the whole shaft, right? We don't do individual CVs anymore, as the labor is ridiculous compared to the cost difference to a whole half shaft. Take the axle nut off, unbolt the shaft from the tranny, and swing the hub out. Pull the axle out of the hub first, then the tranny. Reverse procedure to install. I will paste the book solution from autozone.com below. Lemme know if you have more questions.

  1. Before servicing the vehicle, refer to the Precautions section.
  2. Remove or disconnect the following:

    Front wheel and tire assembly Skid plate, as required. If equipped Drive axle hub nut and washer Brake line and wheel speed sensor support bracket from the upper control arm to allow extra travel of the control arm. Left outer tie rod attaching nut and cotter pin. Separate the tie rod from the steering knuckle
  3. Position the tie rod aside and push steering linkage to the opposite side of the vehicle.

    Lower shock attaching nut and bolt; position the shock aside Left stabilizer bar bracket and bushing at the frame Stabilizer bar bolt, spacer and bushings at the lower control arm
  4. Taking pressure off the upper control arm by placing a support below the lower control arm between the spring seat and the ball joint.
    NOTE Cover the shock mounting bracket and lower ball joint stud with a towel to prevent the axle boot from tearing during removal and installation.


    Upper ball joint cotter pin and loosen (do not remove) the upper ball joint attaching nut. Separate the ball joint stud from the steering knuckle. Remove the attaching nut.
  5. Separate the axle shaft from the hub and rotor using tool J-28733 or equivalent.

    Axle shaft inner flange bolts and shaft
To install:
  1. Lubricate the axle and hub splines with an approved high temperature wheel bearing grease.
  2. Install or connect the following:

    Axle shaft in the hub Inboard CV-joint-to-flange bolts. Torque the bolts to 60 ft. lbs. (80 Nm). Upper ball joint to steering knuckle. Torque the stud nut to 61 ft. lbs. (83 Nm). New cotter pin through the upper ball joint stud and nut, lubricate the ball joint as required. Left stabilizer bar bracket and bushing at the frame Stabilizer bar bolt, spacer and bushings at the lower control arm Lower shock in the mount bracket and the attaching nut and bolt Left tie rod end at the steering knuckle. Torque the nut to 35 ft. lbs. (47 Nm). New cotter pin through the tie rod stud and nut Brake line bracket to the control arm, ensuring the line and/or hose is not twisted or kinked Skid plate, as required Axle hub washer and nut. Insert a drift through the rotor vanes to keep the axle from turning. Toque the hub nut to 180 ft. lbs. (245 Nm) Wheel and tire assembly

Oct 26, 2010 | 1999 Chevrolet Silverado 1500

1 Answer

Changing cvc joints 1997 accord


replace the entire CV axles. Support vehicle with jackstands by frame. Remove front wheels. Remove axle nuts. Remove lower balljoint nut. Separate balljoint from nuckle by banging hard with ball peen hammer on knuckle on spindle assy. Remove outer tie-rod nut. Separate tie-rod from steering nuckle by bangin on nuckle with ball-peen hammer. Use long pry bar to hold lower control arm down while simultaneously pulling hub/spindle assembly away from vehicle and pushing axle through hub toward transaxle. Go under vehicle and pry inner cv joint away from transaxle while holding axle assembly.
Install new CV axle in reverse of the disassembly.

Feb 21, 2010 | 1997 Honda Accord

1 Answer

How to replace a CV joint 2000 Cavalier Drivers side


Buy the right CV axle. Raise right front of vehicle. Remove wheel. use a lugnut and washers to secure brake rotor so that it is not flopping and trapping rust behind. Remove axle nut. Loosen nuts from outer tie rod end stud and lower ball joint stud almost all the way off, but do not remove them completely. Seperate the studs from knuckles by striking each knuckle with a ball peen hammer. After the tie rod and lower ball joint are seperated from the spindle knuckles, pry down on lower control arm and push end of axle through hub toward transaxle until hub and spindle assembly is free from axle/CV joint. Place drain pan under transmission. Carefully place pry bar between innner CV joint and transmission and pop axle assembly loose. Install new axle in reverse of the dissassembly.

Feb 21, 2010 | 2000 Chevrolet Cavalier

1 Answer

Rt front axle broke how to repair


If there is no other damage aside from the outer CV joint being out.

1. Jack car up and support on jack stand on the affected side.
2. Remove wheel
3. Remove center hub nut
4. Turn wheels all the way to one side or the other. This is to gain access to the lower ball joint. One way will be easier than the other depending on how the bolt is installed.
5. Remove lower ball joint bolt and nut
6. Separate the ball joint by using a large pry bar or pipe to push the control arm down and hit side of joint with hammer.
7. Once joint has released pry down to free control arm from ball joint shaft.
8. Now tap the outer cv joint part still trapped in the hub out
9. Remove remaining axle from transmission by using a pry bar to pry it out of the transmission.
10. Reinstall new axle into transmission and then start into hub. Make sure to shove axle firmly into transmission so as to get past the C-clip lock.
11. Pry lower control arm down to allow the ball joint to be reassembled. Slip ball joint shaft back into control arm.
12. Reinstall bolt and nut
13. Install hub nut
14. Install wheel

Jan 24, 2010 | 1994 Pontiac Bonneville

1 Answer

How to remove cv 1994 pulsar to replace outer d/side boot


  1. Raise the front of the vehicle and support it on jackstands, then remove the wheel and the tire assembly.
  2. Remove the cotter pin from the drive axle.
  3. Have a helper firmly apply the brakes, and loosen the hub nut.
  4. Remove the caliper assembly.

It is not necessary to disconnect the brake hose from the caliper. Position the caliper out of the way and secure with mechanics wire.
  1. Using the removal tool HT72520000 or equivalent, remove the tie rod ball joint from the steering knuckle.
  2. On 1982-86 vehicles, disconnect the ball joint from the lower control arm, by removing the mounting nuts from the bottom of the control arm.
  3. On 1987-90 vehicles, disconnect the ball joint from the steering knuckle, using removal tool HT72520000 or equivalent.
  4. Using a block of wood and a mallet, separate the halfshaft from the hub/steering knuckle assembly. If the assembly is difficult to separate it may be necessary to use a press/puller tool.

In order to protect the halfshaft from damage, it is a good idea when striking the halfshaft, to temporarily install the hub nut.
  1. Drain the lubricant from the transaxle.
  2. Support the engine properly and remove support bracket if so equipped.
  3. Remove the halfshaft from the right side on automatic transaxle equipped vehicles and on all manual transaxles as follows:
    1. Insert a suitable prybar between the inner CV-joint and the transaxle.
    2. Carefully pry the halfshaft from the transaxle.


When removing the driveshaft from the transaxle, do not pull on the driveshaft. The driveshaft will separate at the sliding joint (damaging the boot).
  1. Remove the left side halfshaft on automatic transaxles as follows:
    1. Remove the right side halfshaft as outlined above.
    2. Insert a slotted screwdriver, from the right side of the transaxle.


Make certain that the screwdriver is properly aligned into the slot in the halfshaft.
  1. Tap the screwdriver with a mallet to remove the left side halfshaft from the transaxle.

  1. Pull the hub/steering knuckle assembly away from the vehicle and remove the halfshaft from the transaxle.

After removing the halfshaft from the transaxle, be sure to install a holding tool to hold the side gear in place while the axle is removed.
To install:
  1. Always use a new circlip on the driveshaft and install a new oil seal to the transaxle.
  2. Install the halfshaft into the transaxle.

When installing the driveshaft into the transaxle, use oil seal protector tool KV38105500 or equivalent to protect the oil seal from damage; after installation, remove the tool.
  1. Align the halfshaft with the hub/knuckle assembly and connect the lower control arm-to-ball joint.
  2. On 1982-86 vehicles, connect the lower control arm to the ball joint and tighten the control arm-to-ball joint nuts to 40-47 ft. lbs. (54-64 Nm).
  3. On 1987-90 vehicles, connect the lower ball joint to the steering knuckle and tighten the stud nut to 43-54 ft. lbs. (59-74 Nm).
  4. Connect the tie rod to the steering knuckle and torque the tie rod stud nut to 22-36 ft. lbs. (30-49 Nm).
  5. Install then hub nut and tighten to 87-145 ft. lbs. (118-197 Nm).
  6. Install new cotter pin in drive axle and mount the caliper assembly.
  7. Install the wheel and tire assembly.
  8. Road test for proper operation.

Nov 15, 2009 | 1990 Nissan Pulsar

1 Answer

Need to replace the lower control Arm. Is there a procedure available?


Please be mindful to carefully note the position of the old parts as you disassemble the suspension, then follow these steps to do the re-installation:

REMOVAL

1. Disconnect the negative battery cable.

2. Raise and safely support the vehicle.

3. Remove the wheel and tire assembly.

4. Remove and discard the tension strut-to-control arm nut, then pull off the dished washer.

When separating the control arm from the steering knuckle, do not use a hammer. Be careful not to damage the ball joint boot seal.

5. Remove and discard the control arm-to-steering knuckle pinch bolt. Using a small prybar, spread the pinch joint slightly, then separate the control arm from the steering knuckle. A drift punch may be used to remove the bolt, but be very careful not to damage the ball joint boot seal.

Do not allow the halfshaft to move outward, or the tripod CV-joint internal parts could separate, causing failure of the joint.

6. Remove and discard the lower control arm inner pivot bolt and nut.

7. Remove the lower control arm from the frame and the tension strut.

INSTALLATION

Make sure the front washer is at the strut-to-lower control arm attachment.

8. Insert the strut into the inner bushing.

9. Position the lower control arm into the subframe bracket, using a new nut and bolt. Tighten to 73-97 ft. lbs. (98-132 Nm).

10. Assemble the lower control arm ball joint stud to the steering knuckle, making sure the ball stud groove is positioned properly. Be very careful not to damage the lower control arm seal.

11. Insert a new pinch bolt and nut, then tighten to 40-53 ft. lbs. (53-72 Nm).

12. Clean the strut threads to remove dirt and/or debris.

13. Install the dished washer, with its dished side away from the control arm bushing. Install a new nut on the strut and tighten to 73-97 ft. lbs. (98-132 Nm).

14. Install the wheel and tire assembly, tightening the lug nuts to 85-105 ft. lbs. (115-142 Nm), then carefully lower the vehicle.

I hope this helps.

Aug 17, 2009 | 1994 Ford Taurus

1 Answer

How to change upper control arm on 1996 Honda Civic DX ?


UPPER CONTROL ARM:

Do not disassemble the upper arm. If the ball joint or bushings are faulty, or the upper arm is damaged, the entire upper arm must be replaced.
  1. Raise and support the vehicle safely.
  2. Remove the front wheels. Support the lower control arm assembly with a floor jack.
  3. Separate the upper ball joint from the steering knuckle using a ball joint separator tool.
  4. Remove the self-locking nuts from the upper arm anchor bolts. Remove the upper arm from the vehicle.

Do not disassemble the upper arm. If the ball joint or bushings are faulty, or the upper arm is damaged, the entire upper arm must be replaced.
To install:
Use new self-locking nuts when installing the upper arm and strut.
  1. Install the upper control arm assembly into the strut tower.
  2. Connect the upper ball joint.
  3. Install the front wheels and lower the vehicle.
  4. With all four of the vehicle's wheels on the ground, torque the upper control arm nuts to 47 ft. lbs. (65 Nm). Torque the castle nut to 32 ft. lbs. (44 Nm); then, only tighten it enough to install a new cotter pin.
  5. Tighten the wheel nuts to 80 ft. lbs. (110 Nm).
  6. Check and adjust the vehicle's front end alignment.
The bushings on the front lower control arms are replaceable on most models.
This procedure requires the use of a press and may be above the skill range of the average driveway enthusiast. It is recommended that this procedure be done by a qualified machine shop if you are not skilled in the proper use of a press.
  1. Remove the lower control arm that is in need of new bushings.
It is recommended that both the left and right lower control arm bushings be replaced at the same time. The vehicles handling may become unstable if there are new bushings on one side of the car and worn ones on the other.
  1. Set up the control arm in a press.
  2. Using a impact socket of the correct length and size, press out the old bushing.
  3. Install the new bushing by slowly using the press to push it into the control arm.
  4. WARNINGExcessive force could cause the bushing to bend or tear so be careful.
  5. Once the bushing is properly seated in the control arm, remove the arm from the press and install it on the vehicle.

Apr 05, 2009 | 1996 Honda Civic

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