Re: I'm not sure which sparkplug and coil wires go
OK most stock engines for daily street driving use the NGK BUR6 and BUR8 spark plugs the 6's go in the Leading side so the bottom 2 spark plug holes. The 8's go in the Trailing side which is the top 2 spark plug holes.
Now as far as the plug wires. You have 2 coil packs one will have markings by the output tips that say L1 and L2 the other will say T1 and T2. its very simple L= Leading side, or bottom plug. T=Trailing side or top plug. 1=Front rotor, 2=Rear rotor.
Hook up everything that way and you should have no more issues.
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Year make and model? coil pack or coil on plug? If you have coil packs and just #2 replace the coil pack/s If you have coil on plug, Then you need to check the wiring. One wire will be hot(B+) with the key on. The other will go on and off to ground when cranking the engine. This is assuming you also check the plug wire/boot and made sure it isn't shorting out to the engine.
Bit late here, but I love Datsuns! First check if you are getting power to coil on the + side of coil. Pretty much a straight path from ignition switch to coil. Then pull off coil to distributor cable at the distributor and check for spark on that wire when cranking engine over. If good, rotor, distributor cap, plug wires, or sparkplugs need checked. If no spark from coil, it should be tested with an ohmmeter for proper resistance values, or swap in another coil. Does it have mechanical points and condenser or electronic ignition?
Hello, Depending on the Year of the car, the cars that had a sparkplug with a remote coil, you could have a bad sparkplug wire or a bad coil-pack or a bad sparkplug. For newer cars, the coil is attached to the sparkplug directly on top.
For those newer designs, the coil would need to be tested for that cylinder. Using an Ohmmeter, with 1 lead on top and the other on the tip which touches the sparkplug, it is a 10,000Ohm resistance.
Accessing the sparkplug coil is different for several engines. You may have to remove the Intake manifold to reach the coil and you may need to remove part of the fuel rail to remove the Intake manifold. Switching out a plug or coil is easy once you can get to it.
You can have your scans done free at Autozone, Oreillys, or Advance autoparts and they will clear the problem codes once you replace parts. I hope this Solution is very helpful to you.
This all depends on if its got coil over plug or sparkplug wires, whichever remove the coil or the sparkplug wire and then remove the sparkplug, this engine may have covers that cover the plugs, just remove the covers and make sure to label any wires you remove to get the covvers off.
Hi, the cap, and rotor may be collecting moisture, or the ignition coil shorts out with moisture. You can spray these with a water bottle, while it is running, to find the concern. It lies in one of these ares. Make sure you inspect the coil wire as well. Good luck...Coop
Check the fuse and relay in the fuse panel for a blown fuse. Then unplug the power wire to coil and test for power to coil. If you are getting power to coil then it will be the coil causing the problem. Use an inline tester to connect between the coil tower and sparkplug wire to correctly see if the coil is putting out fire. Could be bad sparkplug wires or plugs. Hope this will help you.
Starting on the pasenger side. Remove the intake tube running from the air filter box to the throttle body and disconnect enough tubes to swing it out of the way. The sparkplugs are down below the small coils you see at the end of the sparkplug wires. With a 10mm socket remove bolt holding the coil, disconnect the plug at the top of the coil by squeezing it at the top and pulling straight off the coils.
Pull the coil straight up. there will be about a 6 inch tube that connects to the top of the spark plug when inserted. You will need a 5/8 sparkplug socket and about 2 feet of extensions to make it easy on yourself. Insert the spark plug socket and extensions down the hole you removed the coils with the tube from and remove and replace the sparkplug. Reinstall your coil onto the engine and move to the next one until you have replaced all the plugs on the passenger side.
Make sure you reconnect all the plugs to the coils, hoses to the intake tube and reinstall your intake tube. The drivers side is a little easier. Pop the spark plug wires from their plastic holders to free enough slack to be able to pull your sparkplug wires out of the block. For the plug closest to the front of the engine you will need to remove the 10mm bolt holding the ground wires to the intake manifold to be able to free enough space for removing the plug.
For the middle plug you will need to remove the 10mm bolt holding the bracket that is holding one of the throttle cables at the top of the intake manifold. For the rear plug just pop the flexible hose that runs behind the black metal bracket straight up out of its clip and push it out of the way along with any other hoses that run through this area. Pull the spark plug wire from its place by pulling straight up just like with the coils. there will also be about a 6 inch tube running down to the spark plug at the bottom of these plugs.
Remove and replace the plugs same as before. make sure you reconnect all your hoses and wires to their previous locations. Doublecheck to make sure you reconnect all the ground wires/ brackets. Also you will need to use " twin ground electrode plugs" (see sticker on front of your plastic timing belt cover? to the right of the radiator hose).
Take the wire off the spark plug then remove the spark plug, put the wire back on the plug and lay it down on something metal .Have someone start the car and look at the sparkplug gap to see if it is sparking. Use a new sparkplug to be sure its a good plug and do this when its kind of dark out side so its easy to see the spark.If it does not have a spark,the coil is worn.
I hope this helps you.
Check your spark plugs and wires yourself. Remove one sparkplug at a time from the engine block, plug the wire back on, place the sparkplug on the engine or vehicle body so that the outer thread of the sparkplug would touch the body, or engine (GND) you can secure it with a cellotape or so. Turn the ignition key to the START position and when starter is spinning wach for high voltage sparks appearing between the body,engine or gasket and the tiny black end of the sparkplug called electrode. If there's a sparks, than it's fine, othervise try to get one working sparkplug and to retest this. If now it works then your sparkplugs needs to be replaced. Othervise check the resistance of the high voltage coil primary windings. this should be something between 0.2 and 10 ohms, when coil is disconnected from vehicles wiring. I just do nts remember the exact figure. If multimeter doesn't show anything, replace the coil, otherwise check if the supply current is flowing to the coil plug when IGN is ON. If it's fine then check the COM line at the same plug, using analog muldimeter is the easiest and not harmfull way to do this. If COM isn't comming You might need to go deeper into ECU, or even to replace it. If COM is fine then it would identfy that coil itself is faulty.