Question about 2006 Dodge Ram 3500 Truck

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What do i do if I am having trouble purging air out of my brakes after changing the rear calipers

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  • Dodge Master
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Only push the brake pedal one time,then lock the bleeder down,pump once,and bleed,do not pump pedal,this only generates air pockets,,do it in this order,master cylinder,right rear,left rear,right front,left front.Keep the reservoir full.

Posted on Jul 31, 2010

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  • Master
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Unfortunately it is a slow process, if all your fluid ran out, it will take a while, still a 2 person job. Have someone pump the brakes and then hold them open up the right rear and see if you can get fluid without air, then try the left the same way. If no progress try opening the bleeder on the caliper and then have the person push on it slowly, try that til you get fluid. brake bleeding takes patience.

Posted on Jul 31, 2010

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Why the front brake stock I have released the purge


What do you mean purge. There is no purge there is a zerk fitting to bleed the air out of the lines. First of all why was the brake stuck in the first place? If its front brakes i assume we are talking caliper again you dont let us know what kind of car your work ing on. But there are usually 2 fasteners holding the calipeir to the hub assembly identfy those and remove then romove caliper with a large C clamp force piston( on inboard side of caliper) all the way open without cracking open the bleeder screw One may have to remove the outboard brake pad or maybe both brake pads but its a fairly simple procedure. If your talking opened tje purge you must have some idea how brakes work so maybe this isnt over your head. Replace brake pads reassemble. First couple pumps will go to floor that the brake system taking up the slack you put in by opening caliper. Dont crack the system you wont have to bleed it. Should free up stuck brakes dont ever drive car with bleeder valve open

Sep 20, 2017 | Cars & Trucks

1 Answer

I changed out left rear hub assembly on a 2010


The proportioning valve has blocked off your rears brakes from getting fluid. My suggestion is to by a syringe 50cc 2oz size fill with brake fluid and force fluid backwards to master cylinder this should center the valve and remove the air.

Sep 01, 2014 | Cars & Trucks

1 Answer

Golf not braking on rear brakes also no pedal


You say you filled it with fluid after the repairs. You must also "bleed" the brake lines to purge any air that is trapped in them. Brake fluid provides the hydraulic compression that causes the brake pads to clamp to the brake rotor/drum. Air in the lines will prevent this as when the brake pedal is pressed, the fluid will simply pressurize the air in the lines and not activate the caliper/wheel cylinder. The reason you have front brakes is that modern vehicles have dual-reservoir master cylinders to prevent total brake loss in the event of a leak. This is why you still have front brakes as there is no air in those lines. You will need to bleed the rear brake lines at BOTH rear wheels to purge air rom the system. The procedure is fairly simple, though some cars with ABS have to have things done differently. I would recommend you check an online forum for you vehicle (simply Google "bleed rear brakes 20xx VW Golf) and see what comes up. It is easier to do with two people, but one can sometimes pull it off.

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1 Answer

Having trouble changing front brakes need some help


w/tire off insert strt screw driver into middle hole on caliper pry back towards you this will retract caliper, in rear of caliper 2 bolts pull those bolts remove caliper @ install new pads,, NO BLEED BRAKE REPLACEMENT, make sure to apply anti squeal lube to brake pads..pump brakes up after installation before driving!!! hope this helps!!!!!

Aug 16, 2010 | 1989 Isuzu Pickup 2WD

2 Answers

98 dodge caravan just changed master cylinder and the pedal still goes t6o the floor was doing this before also


Check the fluid level in mastercylinder first. Inspect brake lines for any leak. Also it could be a leaking caliper piston on the front brakes or a wheel cylinder on the rear. Will have to remove the tires on front to inspect and if you do not have rotors on rear you will have to remove the brake drums to inspect for a leaking wheel cylinder. Hope this will help you.

May 23, 2010 | 1998 Dodge Caravan

1 Answer

My chevy lumina and when you go down the road the brakes start to rub and can smell them burning pressure builds up in the brakes the more you drive


Sounds like a typical frozen brake caliper situation.
First thing to do is not drive this car any further as you may have severe problems on the road, using either a car lift or a floor jack and safety jack supports, locate by eye and/or by smell which wheel is burning and smoking,example: If the passenger front brake is the one at fault, you will need to replace "both front brake pads, possibly both front disc brake rotors and if the disc brake caliper has a frozen piston on the right front, both front disc brake calipers(which can be simply determined by trying to squeeze the piston back with a large clamp or special tool that is made specifically for this and is easily obtained and easy to use from any parts store(Auto Zone or the like ) may even lend you some of the tools you need if you buy the parts from them...how cool is that?
If the caliper piston won't press back into its bore, it needs to be replaced and always replace both calipers not one side, the same with replacing the brake pads, example: right front caliper and brake pads are defective, replace also the left front caliper and pads as well, to allow for a proper stopping action, be sure to replace the disc brake rotors when changing brake pads as well.
Also while inspecting the vehicles brake system check the brake hoses(Heavy rubber lines that connect from a metal brake connector to the back side of your brake caliper, each wheels brake caliper or (wheel cylinder,used on the older drum brake systems) has a brake hose) look for cracks and leaks in the hoses, replace as needed.
Be certain to also check all four wheel disc brakes for signs of wear, if the brake pad (asbestos material mounted on the metal brake pad backing plate, known as the "web") looks about the thickness of the metal "web" or thinner, replace the disc pads and or drum brake pads along with the rotors(dish looking object that disc brake pads actually squeeze against to stop the car).

BLEEDING or PURGING AIR FROM THE HYDRAULIC SYSTEM:

The bleeding or purging of air from the hydraulic system in any brake system requires quite a bit of knowledge and patience, however, and if purging is needed ,two persons to do the job correctly.
First be certain the vehicle is jacked off the ground and secured on jack stands, start bleeding the furthest away brake from the master cylinder which is located under the hood on the drivers side firewall and be sure you have filled the master cylinder up with the proper recommended DOT (probably DOT lll or lV) brake fluid. Put the cover on the master cylinder once you have it filled and be aware to check the fluid level after each bleeding is done.
Step1:
After all your brake replacement work is done, fill master Cyl. and secure it's cover, be sure car is safely secured with jack stands , starting with both rear brakes/wheels off the ground(furthest from master cyl) have second person pumping(pushing the brake pedal up and down without letting off the pedal) this action forces any air in the hydraulic line to find its way out.
Pump pedal this way at least four to five pumps and hold the pedal down to the floor or as far as you can push it, don't let off the pedal, the person bleeding the passenger side rear disc brake caliper (furthest brake purge valve away from the master cylinder) will say "Ok, holld the pedal down", of course after he/she first told you to "Pump it up".
Step 2:
While the pedal is held tighly down the person bleeding will have located on the back of the disc brake caliper assembly a small(1/4 or 5/16 typical hex size) bleeder valve.
The valve must be opened with the proper size box wrench allowing the air to purge out(installing a small rubber hose on the end of the bleeder valve nipple approx. 1 1/2 ft. long and having it suspended and submerged into a clear plastic jar that is 3/4 full of new brake fluid in it) you will see and hear the air release and if using the jar system(I totally recommend) you will see the air bubbles escaping out of the submerged hose. Doing it this way also will not allow air to re enter the system if the person pumping the pedal should happen to release the pedal before you tell them to. Close the bleeder valve.
Step 3: Repeat the process on each wheel at least four times or until you see no visible signs of air coming out, remember, wrench and hose (secured tightly on bleeder valve nipple and submerged in fluid) "Pump it up,(3-4 pumps)" Hold it Down", open the bleeder valve and repeat this process until each wheel has clear fluid flowing out of the bleeder purge valves. Be certain all lines and valves are closed tight.
When the system is purged of all air, the pedal will be as good as the way it was when new, dont forget with all "Power" brake systems, the brake pedals will never be all the way up to the top when pressing the pedal down, it may also feel like it is low, but after a good road test you will see that the static feel of the pedal is not the same as the actual stopping feel of the pedal on the roadway driving.
The only time the feel of the brake pedal should be questioned is if it sinks to the floor, or if you can litterally pump the pedal up a few times and on the second or third static pump(static meaning the car is not moving) the pedal is actually getting higher off the floor, then you may have air still in the system.
If so repeat all the prceedures again being sure you have the master cylinder full of fluid before after and during the entire process.


This is a hard, dirty, and lengthy job, doing it yourself will save you hundreds of dollars, but if you do not work with safety being your primary concern, all the money saved is worthless.
Please be sure to wear the proper eye/hand protection, and wear a painters mask as well.
Happy Motoring!!

May 19, 2010 | 1998 Chevrolet Lumina

2 Answers

Front breaks seem to be dragging. after I changed the front pads, the brake pedal will not pump back up.


check that calipers do not have air in them bleed all brakes check caliper operation to see if they are not siezing check master cylinder (remove bolts from firewall holding master cylinder and pull forward to see if there is any brake fluid behind, if there is mater cylinder is bypassing and has failed replace master clinder)

Oct 20, 2009 | 1994 Toyota 4Runner

3 Answers

How do i remove the rear rotor on a 2000 ford explorer xlt


  1. Disconnect the brake hose.
  2. Remove bolt.
  3. Disconnect the rear wheel brake hose (2A442).
  4. Remove the copper washers and plug the brake hose.
  5. Disconnect the brake hose.
    1. Remove bolt.
    1. Disconnect the rear wheel brake hose (2A442).
    1. Remove the copper washers and plug the brake hose.
      syn~us~en~file=dh0472a.gif~gen~ref.gif
    1. syn~us~en~file=ani_caut.gif~gen~ref.gif CAUTION: Do not remove the guide pins or guide pin boots unless a problem is suspected. The guide pins are meant to be sealed for life and are not repairable. Use Silicone Brake Caliper Grease and Dielectric Compound D7AZ-19A331-A (Motorcraft WA-10) or an equivalent silicone compound meeting Ford specification ESE-M1C171-A for re-lubing the caliper slide pins. Other greases can swell the guide pin boots, resulting in contamination and accelerated corrosion or wear of the caliper slide pin mechanism.
      Remove the rear disc brake caliper (2552).
      1. Remove the brake caliper bolts (2W303).
      1. Lift the rear disc brake caliper off the rear disc brake caliper anchor plate (2C220).
      syn~us~en~file=gh0619a.gif~gen~ref.gif
    1. Inspect the rear disc brake caliper for leaks.
      • If leaks are found, disassembly is required. Refer to Caliper in this section.
      syn~us~en~file=gh1478a.gif~gen~ref.gif
    Installation
    1. syn~us~en~file=ani_caut.gif~gen~ref.gif CAUTION: To prevent interference with rear disc brake caliper operation, install only the correct caliper bolt.
      NOTE: Make sure the stainless steel shoe slippers are correctly positioned. Install new slippers if worn or damaged.
      NOTE: When installed, the locator notch on the brake pads will be located at the upper end of the rear disc brake caliper.
      Install the rear disc brake caliper.
      syn~us~en~file=dh0528a.gif~gen~ref.gif
    1. Install the rear wheel brake hose.
      • Connect the brake hose and install the caliper flow bolt.
        • Use new copper washers.
      syn~us~en~file=gh0621a.gif~gen~ref.gif
    1. Bleed the disc brake caliper. For additional information, refer to Section 206-00 .
    1. NOTE: If equipped with air suspension, reactivate the system by turning on the air suspension switch.
      Install the wheel and tire assembly. For additional information, refer to Section 204-04 .
    1. Verify correct brake operation.
  6. syn~us~en~file=ani_caut.gif~gen~ref.gif CAUTION: Do not remove the guide pins or guide pin boots unless a problem is suspected. The guide pins are meant to be sealed for life and are not repairable. Use Silicone Brake Caliper Grease and Dielectric Compound D7AZ-19A331-A (Motorcraft WA-10) or an equivalent silicone compound meeting Ford specification ESE-M1C171-A for re-lubing the caliper slide pins. Other greases can swell the guide pin boots, resulting in contamination and accelerated corrosion or wear of the caliper slide pin mechanism.
    Remove the rear disc brake caliper (2552).
    1. Remove the brake caliper bolts (2W303).
    1. Lift the rear disc brake caliper off the rear disc brake caliper anchor plate (2C220).
  1. Inspect the rear disc brake caliper for leaks.
    • If leaks are found, disassembly is required. Refer to Caliper in this section.
Disc Removal
  1. NOTE: When removing the rear brake disc (2C026) in this procedure it is not necessary to disconnect the hydraulic lines.
    Remove the rear disc brake caliper (2552). For additional information, refer to Caliper in this section.
  1. NOTE: If the rear brake disc binds on the rear parking brake shoe and linings, remove the adjustment hole access plug and contract the parking brake shoe and lining.
    Remove the rear brake disc.
  1. syn~us~en~file=ani_caut.gif~gen~ref.gif CAUTION: Use a hub-mount brake lathe if necessary to machine the rear brake disc.
    Measure the rear brake disc, and resurface as necessary. Install a new rear brake disc if beyond specification.
--------------------------------
Installation
  1. syn~us~en~file=ani_caut.gif~gen~ref.gif CAUTION: To prevent interference with rear disc brake caliper operation, install only the correct caliper bolt.
    NOTE: Make sure the stainless steel shoe slippers are correctly positioned. Install new slippers if worn or damaged.
    NOTE: When installed, the locator notch on the brake pads will be located at the upper end of the rear disc brake caliper.
    Install the rear disc brake caliper.
  1. Install the rear wheel brake hose.
    • Connect the brake hose and install the caliper flow bolt.
      • Use new copper washers.
  1. Bleed the disc brake caliper. For additional information, refer to Section 206-00 .
  1. NOTE: If equipped with air suspension, reactivate the system by turning on the air suspension switch.
    Install the wheel and tire assembly. For additional information, refer to Section 204-04 .
  1. Verify correct brake operation.

May 06, 2009 | 2000 Ford Explorer

2 Answers

I need to know how to bleed the brakes on a 1999 chevy blazer


Start from right rear, then, left rear, right front, left front. Fill master cylinder. Have helper sit in car, have helper hold brake pedal down. open bleed screw. fluid and air comes out. close screw. release brake pedal. Continue until no air comes out. Move to next wheel. Keep an eye on master cylinder fluid level after each wheel.

Mar 27, 2009 | 1999 Chevrolet Blazer

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