Question about 1993 Nissan Pathfinder

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Step on gas, motor goes pop, pop than clears out until you go from idle than pop pop 1993 pathfinder,115K, replaced dist cap & rotor ( center of cap burned out ) replaced spark plugs ( old plugs gap at 60 ) replaced wires, fuel filter, after all this it starts great, idles lower that before, runs rough, backfire from idle under load

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Vacum hose may be off some were

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Bring the motor to tdc and see if the rotor is pointing at #1 on the cap,you were supposed to make a mark on the dist.flange and on the motor to line up the dist.

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there is a very real possibility that you may have a flat lobe on the camshaft. Last time I heard one like this, it almost sounded like a popcorn machine in the intake. sound you don't forget. Also, check for a stretch timing chain. Pull plugs, rotate engine to TDC. Pull dist cap off. Put finger on rotor and have someone rotate engine in opposite direction untill you feel rotor move. Look at how far it goes on the timing tab untill you feel the rotor move. Half of that number is the amount of stretch. 4 or more degrees, change chain.

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1993 chevy suburban, engine has been popping and skipping now has stopped running at all, could it be the distributor cap and rotor button have gone bad ?


its possible it needs tune up but also check the timing. alot of chevy's spit and pop and when you shut them off and go to start later they wont, this is when the timing cam gear goes bad and out of time. turn crank to top dead center (TDC) on timing mark on front of engine cover or tab first, then remove dist cap and notice where the supply point of the rotor is facing. is it pointing to the # cylinder (very front of motor on the driver side)? Or is it aiming to the plug wire location on the dist cap that goes to the # 1 spark plug. ( the front plug on the driver side of motor )? If neither of these are in line then timing is out of wak. If it's all good then check plugs for old worn or burnt electrodes then check rotor with multi testor for current travel, then check cap for electrode failure and then check plug wires for current loss and burn. then perform a compression check on motor. (dry & wet)

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You have spark on the coil wire but not coming from the cap. You replaced the cap right. Did you replace the rotor too. Sometimes the rotor burn in the center and the spark goes right thru it in to the distributor shaft.

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So you have voltage at the distributor and the rotor is turning. Check for voltage at the end of each plug wire. If you do not have voltage there you are loosing it in the wire or the cap. Is the cap new? Are cap and rotor new?
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Trevor Marsh

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you are off the timing by a tooth or two. when you replaced the cap and rotor, if you did not mark the position of the rotor with some point on the motor or firewall, then it is likely that you installed the rotor by a couple of degrees. so, when you are going up hill, and the engine needs to advance the timing to add power you timing is off even more causing lack of power and sputtering and backfiring.

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i think the dist is adjable try advanceing it some times the after market caps are a little diffront

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Try cleaning the trotle body at the butterfly,they tend to carbon up and not let proper air mixture at idle,tailtail sign some times is feels like the throtle pedal sticks or pops when depressing it.

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make sure that the right cap goes to the right plug. they are specific to firing order.

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