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Re: brake pump on 1992 plmouth voyager, the pedal is
If you have ABS brakes there is a large brake fluid pump connected to the brake fluid reservoir by two large hoses. It sits on top of the transmission and is held on by one bolt. Take a long metal rod and a hammer , place the rod against the body of the pump and with the car running tap or rap on the side of the pressure pump body. If it was just stuck you might get a few more months out of it. If it doesn't come back to life, get one at a salvage yard. Last time I checked they were on back order , supposedly about to be discontinued , and awfully expensive(about $600). I Picked one up a salvage yard for $10 that has worked now for three years.
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The most obvious cause for a hard pedal is simply not enough vacuum. Check the brake power booster by pumping on the brake pedal while the car isn't running. Continue pumping until you've "bled off" the vacuum from the booster. Hold the pedal down while you start the car. The pedal should go down a bit more beneath your foot. If it doesn't, then you should examine the connection between the vacuum hose of the brake power and the engine's vacuum.
Replace the brake power booster if the connection's fine, which would fix the hard brake pedal problem.
It may be your calipers need replaced. Check them for signs of wear. Look at the metal spring where the brake pads sit.
Apply tension to the pad and see whether you hear a pop. If you do, the brake pad is moving too much on the bracket. Replace the caliper. This could help the hard brake pedal.
Sounds like you have a dirty or bad Speed sensor (ABS). The griding is actually the ABS pump kicking in because it's getting false readings. Clean or replace the sensor(S) in the front wheel hubs. It is recommended to NOT drive the car until this is fixed. (WHY???) Because even though right now they seem to work, one of these times you will go to hit the brakes, they will become rock hard and you will bot be able to push on the pedal, you will have an accident and could be seriously injured.
Rather than guess at this you should go pay the 40 dollar diagnosis and if your capable then choose to repair it yourself. Brakes are not something you want to trust someone on the internet to fix for you.
Make sure it is full of fluid, go to the farthest wheel have someone pump the brakes up as much as possible have the person continue to push on the pedal as you open the the bleed valve located on the back of the brake drum continue this proscees pumping and bleeding until you get a continuous flow of fluid coming out, move to the opposite side and do it again go to the next farthest and continue until you have bled all wheel cylinders and have all the air out be sure you keep the reservoir full during this procedure
Had a similar problem a number of years back. Underneath the brake pedal arm is a small switch with a plunger. when you press the pedal down it moves the plunger in and engages the brake lights. when you let off it's supposed to pop back out (turning the lights back off). Possible it is getting stuck in the down position and could need to be replaced. very easy to install and only about an 8 dollar fix.
You should have a few special tools ready. Fender to Fender Engine support. Transmission Jack A Lift would be real nice Once the Trany is out it will be easy to remove the pump. It's putting the new one back in that can cause you some real headaches.