Question about 1984 Ford Bronco

1 Answer

I need to replace transmission mount-to-crossmember insulator. its been a headache finding the part and i am at my wits end . where can i find this item. it is located under the transmission mount but on top of the crossmember

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Try going to a junk yard you may also beable to cross reffance to a simalar vehicle like a differant year.

Posted on Jul 29, 2010

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How to remove motor mounts on a 1992 lincoln


Remove the starter motor with a ratchet and socket and then unplug any electrical connectors from sensors or components attached to the transmission. Remove the sensors and components with a ratchet and socket.
Remove the header-exhaust pipe with a breaker bar and socket, if you believe you will need more room to secure and maneuver the transmission out of the vehicle.
Unfasten the transmission to mount, mount to crossmember and crossmember to frame bolts with a ratchet, ratchet extension and socket. Detach any brackets from the bell housing or rear of the transmission housing with a ratchet and socket. Secure the transmission with a transmission jack and raise the transmission just enough to remove the mount and crossmember supporting the transmission.
OEMScan GreenDS GDS 3 Professional Diagnostic Tool Support Online Update

Oct 17, 2014 | Cars & Trucks

1 Answer

I need to know how to seperate my transmission from my block


REMOVAL & INSTALLATION C6
  1. Disconnect the negative battery cable.
  2. From in the engine compartment, remove the two upper converter housing-to-engine bolts.
  3. Disconnect the neutral switch wire at the in-line connector.
  4. Remove the bolt securing the fluid filler tube to the engine cylinder head.
  5. Raise and support the truck on jackstands.
  6. Place the drain pan under the transmission fluid pan. Starting at the rear of the pan and working toward the front, loosen the attaching bolts and allow the fluid to drain. Finally remove all of the pan attaching bolts except two at the front, to allow the fluid to further drain. With fluid drained, install two bolts on the rear side of the pan to temporarily hold it in place.
  7. Remove the converter drain plug access cover from the lower end of the converter housing.
  8. Remove the converter-to-flywheel attaching nuts. Place a wrench on the crankshaft pulley attaching bolt to turn the converter to gain access to the nuts.
  9. With the wrench on the crankshaft pulley attaching bolt, turn the converter to gain access to the converter drain plug. Place a drain pan under the converter to catch the fluid and remove the plug. After the fluid has been drained, reinstall the plug.
  10. On 2WD drive models, disconnect the driveshaft from the rear axle and slide shaft rearward from the transmission. Install a seal installation tool in the extension housing to prevent fluid leakage.
  11. Disconnect the speedometer cable from the extension housing.
  12. Disconnect the downshift and manual linkage rods from the levers at the transmission.
  13. Disconnect the oil cooler lines from the transmission.
  14. Remove the vacuum hose from the vacuum diaphragm unit. Remove the vacuum line retaining clip.
  15. Disconnect the cable from the terminal on the starter motor. Remove the three attaching bolts and remove the starter motor.
  16. On 4WD drive models remove the transfer case.
  17. Remove the two engine rear support and insulator assembly-to-attaching bolts.
  18. Remove the two engine rear support and insulator assembly-to-extension housing attaching bolts.
  19. Remove the six bolts securing the No. 2 crossmember to the frame side rails.
  20. Raise the transmission with a transmission jack and remove both crossmembers.
  21. Secure the transmission to the jack with the safety chain.
  22. Remove the remaining converter housing-to-engine attaching bolts.
  23. Move the transmission away from the engine. Lower the jack and remove the converter and transmission assembly from under the vehicle. To install:
  24. Tighten the converter drain plug.
  25. Position the converter on the transmission making sure the converter drive flats are fully engaged in the pump gear.
  26. With the converter properly installed, place the transmission on the jack. Secure the transmission on the jack with the chain.
  27. Rotate the converter until the studs and drain plug are in alignment with their holes in the flywheel.
  28. Move the converter and transmission assembly forward into position, using care not to damage the flywheel and the converter pilot. The converter must rest squarely against the flywheel. This indicates that the converter pilot is not binding in the engine crankshaft.
  29. Install the converter housing-to-engine attaching bolts and tighten them to 65 ft. lbs. (88 Nm) for the diesel; 50 ft. lbs. (68 Nm) for gasoline engines.
  30. Remove the transmission jack safety chain from around the transmission.
  31. Position the No. 2 crossmember to the frame side rails. Install and tighten the attaching bolts.
  32. Install transfer case on 4WD drive models.
  33. Position the engine rear support and insulator assembly above the crossmember. Install the rear support and insulator assembly-to-extension housing mounting bolts and tighten the bolts to 45 ft. lbs. (61 Nm).
  34. Lower the transmission and remove the jack.
  35. Secure the engine rear support and insulator assembly to the crossmember with the attaching bolts and tighten them to 80 ft. lbs. (108 Nm).
  36. The balance of installation is the reverse of removal.
AOD
  1. Disconnect the negative battery cable.
  2. Raise the vehicle on hoist or stands.
  3. Place the drain pan under the transmission fluid pan. Starting at the rear of the pan and working toward the front, loosen the attaching bolts and allow the fluid to drain. Finally remove all of the pan attaching bolts except two at the front, to allow the fluid to further drain. With fluid drained, install two bolts on the rear side of the pan to temporarily hold it in place.
  4. Remove the converter drain plug access cover from the lower end of the converter.
  5. Remove the converter-to-flywheel attaching nuts. Place a wrench on the crankshaft pulley attaching bolt to turn the converter to gain access to the nuts.
  6. Place a drain pan under the converter to catch the fluid. With the wrench on the crankshaft pulley attaching bolt, turn the converter to gain access to the converter drain plug and remove the plug. After the fluid has been drained, reinstall the plug.
  7. On 2WD drive models, matchmark and disconnect the driveshaft from the rear axle and slide shaft rearward from the transmission. Install a seal installation tool in the extension housing to prevent fluid leakage.
  8. Disconnect the cable from the terminal on the starter motor. Remove the three attaching bolts and remove the starter motor. Disconnect the neutral start switch wires at the plug connector.
  9. Remove the rear mount-to-crossmember attaching bolts and the two crossmember-to-frame attaching bolts.
  10. Remove the two engine rear support-to-extension housing attaching bolts.
  11. Disconnect the TV linkage rod from the transmission TV lever. Disconnect the manual rod from the transmission manual lever at the transmission.
  12. Remove the two bolts securing the bell crank bracket to the converter housing.
  13. On 4WD drive models, remove the transfer case.
  14. Raise the transmission with a transmission jack to provide clearance to remove the crossmember. Remove the rear mount from the crossmember and remove the crossmember from the side supports.
  15. Lower the transmission to gain access to the oil cooler lines.
  16. Disconnect each oil line from the fittings on the transmission.
  17. Disconnect the speedometer cable from the extension housing.
  18. Remove the bolt that secures the transmission fluid filler tube to the cylinder block. Lift the filler tube and the dipstick from the transmission.
  19. Secure the transmission to the jack with the chain.
  20. Remove the converter housing-to-cylinder block attaching bolts.
  21. Carefully move the transmission and converter assembly away from the engine and, at the same time, lower the jack to clear the underside of the vehicle.
  22. Remove the converter and mount the transmission in a holding fixture.
  23. Tighten the converter drain plug. To install:
  24. Position the converter on the transmission, making sure the converter drive flats are fully engaged in the pump gear by rotating the converter.
  25. With the converter properly installed, place the transmission on the jack. Secure the transmission to the jack with a chain.
  26. Rotate the converter until the studs and drain plug are in alignment with the holes in the flywheel.
  27. Move the converter and transmission assembly forward into position, using care not to damage the flywheel and the converter pilot. The converter must rest squarely against the flywheel. This indicates that the converter pilot is not binding in the engine crankshaft.
  28. Install and tighten the converter housing-to-engine attaching bolts to 40-50 ft. lbs. (54-68 Nm).
  29. The balance of installation is the reverse of removal.
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Nov 03, 2010 | 1991 Ford F150

1 Answer

I am trying to replace the starter in my 86 nissan stanza but cant see it


NISSAN STANZA WAGON - Manual Transmission


Q. Where is the starter on a 1986 nissan stanza station wagon and how do you get to it ?


Due to limited access to the starter, it is recommended that the transaxle be removed when servicing the starter.

REMOVAL:

1. Cold vehicle.

Remove 2 mounting bracket bolts, 10 & 12 mm (Figure 1).

Remove top starter motor bolt 14 mm with universal & long extensions.

Raise vehicle on hoist.

Remove front splash pans 10 mm.

Automatic transmission: Drain 2 qts out.

Remove rt-ft wheel 21 mm., & tie rod (Figure 3), axle cap, cotter pin, adj-nut & rubber washer.

Remove ball joint nuts 17 mm., left lower control arm 19mm. & swaybar bracket 14 mm. (Fig 2).

Remove axle nut 36mm (Figure 4), the front tube, catalytic converter heat insulators 10mm, ctr ex-tube 17 mm., and front tube from exhaust system (Figure 5).

Remove long bolt from ft engine mount (next to radiator), 17mm socket (Figure 6, Item A).

Remove tension rod mount 14 mm. Has adj-bracket with rubber insulators (Fig 6, Items B, C).

Remove right side drive shaft bolts that hold shaft to bracket mounted on engine (Fig7) 12mm.

Remove rt-driveshaft.

CAUTION: Transaxle side seals are cut by spline teeth.

Install hoist type transmission jack and wooden block under the transmission/engine. Be certain the transmission is safely balanced on the hoist.

Remove 5 engine crossmember mounts (3 bolts, 2 nuts) 14mm.

Remove nut that attaches crossmember to engine mount.

Loosen stabilizer bar mounts to allow adequate clearance for crossmember to be removed.

Remove following brackets to allow starter assembly to pass through bottom:

tubular support bracket - engine to transaxle

angled support bracket - driveshaft bracket to engine mount

manifold collector stay - (bottom bolts)

Loosen top bolts, remove bracket above driveshaft-holding bracket 14mm.

NOTE: This bracket is slotted to allow it to slide out without completely removing the bolts.

Remove bottom starter motor mounting bolt.

Separate starter assembly from bellhousing, DC all cables/connectors, remove starter motor.

When installing starter, connect cable, install/torque starter bolts.

Nov 03, 2010 | 1986 Nissan Stanza

1 Answer

How does transmission come out


prev.gif next.gif Transmission Assembly REMOVAL & INSTALLATION C6
  1. Disconnect the negative battery cable.
  2. From in the engine compartment, remove the two upper converter housing-to-engine bolts.
  3. Disconnect the neutral switch wire at the in-line connector.
  4. Remove the bolt securing the fluid filler tube to the engine cylinder head.
  5. Raise and support the truck on jackstands.
  6. Place the drain pan under the transmission fluid pan. Starting at the rear of the pan and working toward the front, loosen the attaching bolts and allow the fluid to drain. Finally remove all of the pan attaching bolts except two at the front, to allow the fluid to further drain. With fluid drained, install two bolts on the rear side of the pan to temporarily hold it in place.
  7. Remove the converter drain plug access cover from the lower end of the converter housing.
  8. Remove the converter-to-flywheel attaching nuts. Place a wrench on the crankshaft pulley attaching bolt to turn the converter to gain access to the nuts.
  9. With the wrench on the crankshaft pulley attaching bolt, turn the converter to gain access to the converter drain plug. Place a drain pan under the converter to catch the fluid and remove the plug. After the fluid has been drained, reinstall the plug.
  10. On 2WD drive models, disconnect the driveshaft from the rear axle and slide shaft rearward from the transmission. Install a seal installation tool in the extension housing to prevent fluid leakage.
  11. Disconnect the speedometer cable from the extension housing.
  12. Disconnect the downshift and manual linkage rods from the levers at the transmission.
  13. Disconnect the oil cooler lines from the transmission.
  14. Remove the vacuum hose from the vacuum diaphragm unit. Remove the vacuum line retaining clip.
  15. Disconnect the cable from the terminal on the starter motor. Remove the three attaching bolts and remove the starter motor.
  16. On 4WD drive models remove the transfer case.
  17. Remove the two engine rear support and insulator assembly-to-attaching bolts.
  18. Remove the two engine rear support and insulator assembly-to-extension housing attaching bolts.
  19. Remove the six bolts securing the No. 2 crossmember to the frame side rails.
  20. Raise the transmission with a transmission jack and remove both crossmembers.
  21. Secure the transmission to the jack with the safety chain.
  22. Remove the remaining converter housing-to-engine attaching bolts.
  23. Move the transmission away from the engine. Lower the jack and remove the converter and transmission assembly from under the vehicle. To install:
  24. Tighten the converter drain plug.
  25. Position the converter on the transmission making sure the converter drive flats are fully engaged in the pump gear.
  26. With the converter properly installed, place the transmission on the jack. Secure the transmission on the jack with the chain.
  27. Rotate the converter until the studs and drain plug are in alignment with their holes in the flywheel.
  28. Move the converter and transmission assembly forward into position, using care not to damage the flywheel and the converter pilot. The converter must rest squarely against the flywheel. This indicates that the converter pilot is not binding in the engine crankshaft.
  29. Install the converter housing-to-engine attaching bolts and tighten them to 65 ft. lbs. (88 Nm) for the diesel; 50 ft. lbs. (68 Nm) for gasoline engines.
  30. Remove the transmission jack safety chain from around the transmission.
  31. Position the No. 2 crossmember to the frame side rails. Install and tighten the attaching bolts.
  32. Install transfer case on 4WD drive models.
  33. Position the engine rear support and insulator assembly above the crossmember. Install the rear support and insulator assembly-to-extension housing mounting bolts and tighten the bolts to 45 ft. lbs. (61 Nm).
  34. Lower the transmission and remove the jack.
  35. Secure the engine rear support and insulator assembly to the crossmember with the attaching bolts and tighten them to 80 ft. lbs. (108 Nm).
  36. The balance of installation is the reverse of removal.

Aug 26, 2010 | 1993 Ford F250

1 Answer

I need to locate a service manual to remove and replace a plastic fuel tank with a metal one. Also for body/mirror and door replacements. Help--Thanks


  1. Release the fuel system pressure using the recommended procedure.
  2. Remove the fuel pump unit through the access panel in the floor of the trunk. Drain the fuel tank into a portable fuel siphoning container through the opening in the fuel tank where the fuel pump is mounted.

Prior to disconnecting fuel lines, wrap a shop rag around the connections to absorb any fuel spillage due to residual pressure in the lines.
  1. Disconnect negative battery cable.
  2. Raise and safely support the vehicle. Remove both rear tires.
  3. Remove the exhaust pipe rubber insulators off the mounting studs of the rear of the vehicle and in front of the fuel tank.
  4. Using grease pencil or paint marker, place alignment marks on the fuel filler hose, filler tube, vent hose and vent tube.
  5. Remove the rear splash shield from the right rear wheel well.
  6. Disconnect the fuel filler hose and the vent hose near the fuel filter.

  1. Disconnect both ends of the sway bar from the stabilizer links. Use a grease pencil or paint marker to outline the position of the crossmember ends on the frame rail.

  1. Remove the crossmember mounting bolts and pull the crossmember down until it stops.

  1. Place a transmission jack under the fuel tank to support its weight.

The sway bar bracket bolts must be replaced after loosening or removal. Only use original equipment bolts as replacement.
  1. Remove the sway bar mounting bracket, heat shield and fuel tank strap. To prevent the sway bar from falling down, install sway bar mounting bracket with the bolts finger-tight only.

  1. Carefully and slowly lower the front of the fuel tank. Slide the tank away from the crossmember while pushing the filler vent and fill tube over the crossmember. Detach any remaining fuel or electrical connections. Lower the fuel tank.

To install:
  1. Position the tank on the transmission jack or other suitable lift, with the shield and the tank strap in place. Raise the tank over the crossmember and place it in the proper position. Be sure that the electrical connector, pressure relief/rollover valve hose, fuel supply and return lines are accessible through the opening in the trunk. Check to be sure that nothing is pinched or kinked in any way.
  2. Push the vent and the filler tube over the crossmember. Rotate the sway bar into position and install the sway bar brackets.
  3. Raise the tank into place and position the sway bar mounting bracket and the tank straps in place. Tighten the bolts to 44 ft. lbs. (60 Nm).
  4. Raise the crossmember into position and align with the locating marks made during removal. Install bolts and tighten to 70 ft. lbs. (95 Nm).
  5. Reconnect the filler tube and vent tube making sure to align with the marks made during removal.
  6. Connect the sway bar ends to the link arms and tighten sway bar mounting nuts to 74 ft. lbs. (100 Nm).
  7. Install the exhaust onto the hangers. Install the rear splash shield in the right rear wheel well.
  8. Install the rear wheels and lug nuts. Tighten the lug nuts, in a star pattern sequence, to 95-100 ft. lbs. (129-135 Nm).
  9. Lower the vehicle.
  10. Install the fuel pump module.
  11. Connect the fuel supply, return and vent tubes. After installation of the quick-connect fittings, check for proper connection by pulling back on the quick-connect fitting. The tube should lock in place. If the connection is not complete, make sure the black plastic ring is not causing the locking retainer to jam in the release position.
  12. Install the fuel pump access cover and gasket. Tighten the fasteners and install the trunk liner.
  13. Install the filler cap and reconnect the negative battery cable.
  14. With the ignition in the ON position, access the DRB III ASD Fuel System Test to pressurize the fuel system. Check for leaks.

  1. Check the rear wheel alignment and adjust, if necessary.
Thanks for using FixYa - a 4 THUMBS rating is appreciated for answering your FREE question.

Aug 16, 2010 | 1994 Dodge Intrepid

2 Answers

94 geo prizm has excessive engine vibration at idle and when driving


I have two vehicles that are 1993. When they get that old, rubber starts to dry rot. I have had the same problem on my 1993 Dodge Intrepid. My problem lies in the motor mounts and the transmission mounts. After replacing these items, it runs like a champ.

You can visually determine if you motor mounts are dry rotted. Look under the hood and, with a flashlight, look on either side of the motor. There should be a crossmember running parallel to the axles. On this crossmember will be two (one on either side) large rubber pieces sitting inside a metal holder. These are your motor mounts. If they are cracked and split, they need replacing. Also, if you can run your fingers across one and your fingers turn black, it is not oil... it's rubber powder.

Conclusion: If your motor mounts are dry and cracked, then so are your transmission mounts. You'll want to have them replaced by a professional. If installed by a novice or my a "Mom & Pop" garage, your new mounts may split under stress caused by improper installation... a headache you do not want.

Good Luck!

Feb 16, 2010 | 1994 Geo Prizm

1 Answer

Transmission crossmember clearance? inline 6 to 327 in a 69 c-10


You do need to remove the old crossmember if it does not line up, but first see how much clearance you do need and if there is any way to use the existing crossmember because of where it bolts up to the frame. Maybe just cutting off the orignal trans mount from the crossmember and remounting it may give you the clearance or even turning it around to see if can be used. That way you are not spending any extra money that you don't need to. You last option is to cut crossmember and design what you need as a crossmember that works.
I hope that me input helps you.

Jul 27, 2009 | 1991 Chevrolet C1500

1 Answer

How to change the power steering on 96 ford explorer


Section 11-02C: Steering Gear, Power Rack and Pinion, Explorer 1996 Explorer with Power Rack and Pinion Steering Workshop Manual REMOVAL AND INSTALLATION Steering Gear SPECIAL SERVICE TOOL(S) REQUIRED Description Tool Number Pitman Arm Puller T64P-3590-F
Removal
  1. Start engine.
  1. Rotate steering wheel from lock-to-lock (entire gear travel). Record n umber of rotations.
  1. Divide the number of rotations by two. This gives the required number of turns to place system in the on-center position.
  1. NOTE: Verify the front wheels and steering wheel are in the straight-ahead position.

    From the lock position, rotate steering wheel the number of turns determined in Step 3. This places the gear in the on-center position.


    Steering Gear, Explorer




  1. NOTE: Do not rotate steering column when intermediate shaft is disconnected or DAMAGE TO CLOCKSPRING will result.

    Remove bolt retaining the lower steering column shaft to the steering gear input shaft.




  1. Disconnect the lower steering column shaft from the steering gear.
  1. Remove stabilizer bar attachment from frame for clearance to remove gear.
  1. Unscrew the quick connect fittings for the power steering pressure hose (3A719) and power steering return hoses (3A713) at the steering gear housing (3548).


    Power Steering Hose Connections





    Item Part Number Description 1 3A674 Power Steering Pump 2 3A719 Power Steering Pressure Hose 3 3F780 Power Steering Cooler and Hose Assembly 4 3504 Steering Gear 5 5005 Frame
  1. Plug ends of fluid lines removed and ports in gear to prevent damage and entry of dirt.
  1. Remove two (2) nuts from P/S cooler.
  1. Remove P/S cooler from vehicle.
  1. Remove and discard the cotter pin retaining the nut to tie rod end (3A130) and remove nut.
  1. Separate tie rod ends from front wheel spindle (3105) using Pitman Arm Puller T64P-3590-F.




  1. Remove the two nuts, bolts, and washer assemblies retaining steering gear (3504) to front crossmember (5019).
  1. Remove steering gear from vehicle. If required, remove steering gear mounting bracket housing insulators (3F640) and steering gear insulators (3C716) from steering gear housing.





    Item Part Number Description 1 N807881-S60 Bolt 2 385935-S36 Washer 3 3F640 Steering Gear Mounting Housing Insulator 4 3504 Steering Gear 5 N800255-S60 Nut 6 5019 Front Crossmember 7 3C716 Steering Gear Insulator
Installation
  1. If removed, install steering gear mounting insulators into the steering gear housing.
  1. Push the steering gear mounting insulator and steering gear insulator in until there is no space between the lip on the insulator and steering gear housing.
  1. Position steering gear on front crossmember. Install nuts, bolts and washers retaining steering gear to front crossmember. Tighten to 128-172 Nm (94-127 lb-ft).
  1. Position power steering cooler onto bolts and install nuts. Tighten nuts to 68-92 Nm (50-68 lb-ft).
  1. NOTE: The fittings design allows the power steering pressure hose and power steering return hose to swivel when properly tightened. Do not attempt to eliminate looseness by overtightening, since this can cause damage to fittings.

    Connect power steering pressure hose and power steering return hose to appropriate ports on steering gear housing. Tighten fittings to 27-34 Nm (20-25 lb-ft).
  1. NOTE: Make sure the tie rod ends (3A131) are seated in the tapered spindle holes to prevent rotation while tightening nut.

    With the steering gear, steering wheel (3600) and wheel (1007) in the on-center position, attach the tie rod end to front wheel spindle and tighten to 56-76 Nm (77-103 lb-ft).
  1. If necessary, advance tie rod nuts to the next slot. Install cotter pins.
  1. NOTE: Verify that no rotation from the on-center position has occurred.

    Position steering column lower intermediate shaft over steering gear input shaft. Outer input shaft dust shield must be in place. Replace pinch bolt and tighten to 41-56 Nm (30-42 lb-ft).
  1. Replace the front wheel and tire assemblies. Refer to Section 04-04 .
  1. Replace wheel covers.
  1. Lower vehicle.
  1. Refill power steering oil reservoir (3A697) with Premium Power Steering Fluid E6AZ-19582-AA or equivalent meeting Ford specification ESW-M2C33-F.
  1. Purge air from steering system. Refer to Section 11-00 . Verify absence of any unusual power steering noise.
  1. Check and adjust toe alignment specifications. Refer to Section 04-00 .
  1. Make sure steering gear operates correctly and is not leaking.
  1. Check and adjust fluid level in power steering oil reservoir.

Jul 10, 2009 | 1998 Mercury Villager

1 Answer

Transmission Mount is broken


Check the frame crossmember at the mount. If it looks like the crossmember can be unbolted, it should be a simple job. You would remove the crossmember while supporting the tailshaft. Then unbolt the trans mount from the transmission, change out the parts and reinstall. Or have a shop put it on a lift and change it out in less than an hour.

May 30, 2009 | 2004 Ford Crown Victoria

1 Answer

Replacing radiator 95 Jeep GC


No it is not difficult to replace a radiator it can be done with basic handtools I would not suggest a used radiator, if at all possible spend a little extra now and buy one with the best warranty (lifetime) available although with a new one you are looking at approx $250 plus coolant. Here is the proper procedure for replacment
Grand Cherokee
See Figures 9, 10 and 11
  1. Disconnect the negative battery cable.
  2. Open the radiator valve and drain the cooling system.
  3. Remove the fan and shroud assembly.
0900c152800a9917.jpgFig. 9: Radiator and condenser mounting
  1. If equipped, disconnect the automatic transmission cooling line quick-fit connections.
  2. Matchmark the upper radiator crossmember and adjust the crossmember to the left or right.
0900c152800a9918.jpgFig. 10: Radiator upper crossmember assembly
  1. Eight clips are used to retain a rubber seal to the body. Gently pry up the outboard clips (2 per side) until the rubber seal can be removed. Do not remove the seals entirely. Fold back the seal on both sides to access the grille opening reinforcement mounting bolts and remove the bolts.
  2. Remove the grille.
  3. Remove the upper brace bolt from each of the 2 radiator braces.
  4. Remove the crossmember-to-radiator mounting nuts.
  5. Working through the grille opening, remove the lower bracket bolt securing the lower part of the hood latch or hood latch cable from the crossmember.
  6. Lift the crossmember straight up and position it aside.
  7. If equipped with A/C, remove the 2 A/C condenser-to-radiator mounting bolts which also retain the side mounted rubber air seals.
  8. If not equipped with A/C, remove the bolts retaining the side mounted rubber air seals compressed between the radiator and crossmember.
Note the location of the air seals. To prevent overheating, they must be installed in their original position.
  1. Disconnect the coolant reservoir/overflow tank hose from the radiator.
  2. Disconnect the upper hose from the radiator.
  3. Carefully lift the radiator a slight amount and disconnect the lower hose from the radiator.
  4. Lift the radiator up and out of the engine compartment, take care not to scrape the fins or disturb the A/C condenser if equipped.
If equipped with an auxiliary automatic transmission oil cooler, use caution during radiator removal. The oil cooler lines are routed through a rubber air seal on the left side of the radiator. Do not cut or tear this seal.
To install:
0900c152800a9919.jpgFig. 11: Radiator alignment dowels
  1. Lower the radiator into the vehicle. Guide the alignment dowels into the hoses in the rubber air seals and then through the A/C support brackets, if equipped. Continue to guide the radiator through the rubber grommets located in the lower crossmember.
If equipped with A/C, the L-shaped brackets, located on the bottom of the condenser, must be positioned between the bottom of the rubber air seals and top of rubber grommets.
  1. Connect the lower radiator hose to the radiator.
  2. Connect the upper radiator hose to the radiator.
  3. If equipped with A/C, install the bolts condenser-to-radiator mounting bolts.
  4. If not equipped with A/C, install the rubber air seal retaining bolts.
  5. Connect the reservoir/overflow tank hose to the radiator.
  6. If the radiator-to-upper crossmember rubber insulators were removed, install them.
  7. Install the hood latch support bracket-to-lower frame crossmember bolt.
  8. Install the bolts securing the upper radiator crossmember to the body.
  9. Install the radiator-to-upper crossmember nuts.
  10. Install a bolt to each upper radiator brace.
  11. Install the grille.
  12. Position the rubber seal and push down on the clips until seated.
  13. If equipped, connect the transmission cooling lines.
  14. Install the fan shroud with the fan.
  15. Install the fan and shroud.
  16. Rotate the fan blades and ensure they do not interfere with the shroud and at least 1 inch (25mm) of clearance is allowed. Correct as necessary.
  17. Fill the cooling system.

Nov 24, 2008 | 1995 Jeep Grand Cherokee

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