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Re: Brakes uneven and jerky
This could just be "sticky pads" or there worn right down to there limit
you still need to strip the brakes out to check them out,,if there sticky put some copper grease on the back of the brake pads,,not on the brake pads!!!! only the backs fo them this stops then sticking and also from squealing,,
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Your problem is half normal actually. Pumping the brakes will build more pressure in the system and will make the pedal harder and the brakes will brake alot more, the brakes are designes this way. But if the brakes don't release after you let go of the pedal, that's not normal. If this is the case, there may be a few things that can be faulty, but i'd start by checking/replacing brake vacuum booster unit. If the unit is ok, then probably one of the calipers on the brakes are starting to jam due to rust and dirt, especially if you see the the rubber seals on the caliper pistons are damaged or missing.
Probably just surface rust and or dust in drums if you have drums. Pretty common. Have had 2 Neons and both did the same. Especially after a damp night (dew) or rain, first few stops would squeek. Used to push pedal slightly when I first head out to clean them off and that seemed to help.
What you are describing is brake drag. Brake drag occurs when there is still fluid under pressure left in the brake lines. When you apply brake pressure, brake fluid is pushed into the brake lines from the master cylinder, with a piston. During normal operation, when released, the brake pedal should return to a resting position as the brake fluid returns to the master cylinder. Brake drag may be caused by any of the following:
A) The master cylinder piston is not returning far enough for the brake fluid return into the compensating port.
B) Topping off the master with automatic transmission fluid, engine oil, or power steering fluid, can well the rubber seals in the brake lines. The mineral oil in these fluids can affect the composition of the rubber in the brake line.
C) The master cylinder push rod could be out of adjustment.
You problem could be caused by, but is not limited to, any one of these symptoms; each and every car is different, and some have problems that can stump the greatest technicians for weeks, so do not take this as your solution, but rather a place to start.
You will may want to check your calipers to make sure the pistion or pistons depending on your truck are pushing the brake pad against the rotor> While you are down there you might want to check out the rotor and brake pads as well. To check the rotors make sure there isn't any hot spots due to over heating your brakes as well as an out of round rotor. To check the pads just have a quick look at them to see if there is any scoring or uneven pad wear. remember that uneven pad wear can also be caused by the calipers
Sounds like a problem with the proportioning valve. Try not to push the pedal down to far when bleeding. The valve sounds like it is getting stuck closed, and takes a little bit to release and allow fluid to pass again.
If you own a Toyota with (BA) Brake Assist, it may be out of
adjustment. It is adjustable on the 2010 Highlander and I would guess
that it might be adjustable on your Toyota vehicle as well. (Assuming
this is actually your problem, you have had it checked out by your
service department and they said there is nothing wrong or that it was
normal.) If the brake assist is out of adjustment it may be coming on
too soon or when minimal brake pressure is applied. This causes a long
brake pedal (brake fade or the pedal travels longer than normal before
resistance is felt) and/or jerky brakes. As far as the Hill Climb
Assist or DSC, this feature is activated when the brakes are applied
after the vehicle has come to a stop and then you continue to press
harder on the brakes for a couple more seconds. It also comes on if you
drive with two feet. If you have your foot on the brake and you press
slightly on the accelerator (when the vehicle is completely stopped),
the DSC will come on and you will hear the chirp.