Question about Chrysler Sebring

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I pulled the oil pan to clean out the screen and there seems to be anti-freeze in the pan and once the pan was removed, there was anti-freeze that seemed to be dripping down from the chain that is towards the front of the motor. Can this be from anything besides a cracked block or blown head gasket? Knowledgeable responders only please. I am not looking for guessers. Thank you. Ron

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  • Ron Fredey Jul 29, 2010

    Super informative. Thank you.



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This can only come from a blown gasket, cracked head or cracked block. these are the onlythings that your coolant will run though, I am also assume that the water pump mounts to the front of the engine and not an external one make sure that the water pump housing is not cracked this will allow it to leak in the same area that you are describing. I would know more if I knew the year of the Sebring as well as the engine size...

Posted on Jul 29, 2010

  • Ron Fredey Jul 29, 2010

    Hi Dave,

    Thanks for the response.

    The sebring is a 2001 with a 2.7 Litre six cyl engine.

    Thanks for any additional info you can provide.


  • Dave Martin Jul 29, 2010

    With a 2.7 it is possible that the water pump housing cracked and is leaking down the timing chain. that is why i wanted to see what size engine it was...

    so these are the possibilities for the coolant in the oil...



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Is there any way to remove the oil pan without taking the motor out on a 1998 Cadillac deville base model?

Nope...gotta pull the engine to remove the pan... Why do you want to remove the oil pan? If it is a leak, you MIGHT want to consider sealing it from the outside. I did this once on a Eldorado and it worked fine. Be patient and clean, clean, clean the area that leaks(actually clean ALL the area where the oil pan meets the engine. I used a high-temp, gas/oil resistant silicone sealer and my finger to work the sealer into the area. Let it dry for a couple of days and see if that works. Good Luck....

Oct 25, 2013 | Cars & Trucks

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Can i remove the oil pan on my 07 ford f-150 with out removing the engine?

Check this procedure on F-Series...

5.4L Engine
  1. Before servicing the vehicle, refer to the Precautions Section.
  2. Remove the transmission.
  3. Drain the engine oil.
  4. Disconnect the engine oil temperature (EOT) sensor electrical connector.
  5. Remove the nut and the starter wiring harness support bracket.
  6. Remove the nut and position the transmission oil cooler lines and bracket aside.
  7. Remove the 16 bolts and lower the oil pan onto the crossmember.
  8. Remove the 3 bolts and position the oil pump screen and pickup tube into the oil pan.
    NOTE Be careful when removing the oil pan gasket. It is reusable.
  9. Remove the oil pan and the oil pump screen and pickup tube.
  10. Inspect the oil pan gasket for damage. If damaged, discard the oil pan gasket and the oil pan-to-oil pump gaskets. Discard the oil pump screen and pickup tube O-ring seal.
To install:
WARNING Do not use metal scrapers, wire brushes, power abrasive discs or other abrasive means to clean the sealing surfaces. These tools cause scratches and gouges, which make leak paths. Use a plastic scraping tool to remove all traces of old sealant.
  1. Inspect the oil pan. Clean the mating surface for the oil pan with silicone gasket remover and metal surface prep. Follow the directions on the packaging.
  2. Position the oil pump screen and pickup tube in the oil pan and position the oil pan into the vehicle.
    WARNING Make sure to install a new O-ring seal. A missing or damaged O-ring seal can cause foam in the lubrication system, low oil pressure and severe engine damage.
    NOTE Clean and inspect the mating surfaces and install a new O-ring seal. Lubricate the O-ring seal with clean engine oil prior to installation.
  3. Position the oil pump screen and pickup tube and install the bolts.
  4. Tighten the oil pump screen and pickup tube-to-oil pump bolts to 10 Nm (89 inch lbs.).
  5. Tighten the oil pump screen and pickup tube-to-spacer bolt to 25 Nm (18 ft. lbs.).
    NOTE If not secured within 4 minutes, the sealant must be removed and the sealing area cleaned. To clean the sealing area, use silicone gasket remover and metal surface prep. Follow the directions on the packaging. Failure to follow this procedure can cause future oil leakage.
  6. Apply silicone gasket and sealant at the crankshaft rear seal retainer plate-to-cylinder block sealing surface.
    NOTE If not secured within 4 minutes, the sealant must be removed and the sealing area cleaned. To clean the sealing area, use silicone gasket remover and metal surface prep. Follow the directions on the packaging. Failure to follow this procedure can cause future oil leakage.
  7. Apply silicone gasket and sealant at the engine front cover-to-cylinder block sealing surface.
  8. Install the oil pan gasket and the oil pan and loosely install the 16 bolts.
  9. Tighten the bolts in 3 stages, in the sequence shown.
    Stage 1: Tighten to 2 Nm (18 inch lbs.). Stage 2: Tighten to 20 Nm (15 ft. lbs.). Stage 3: Tighten an additional 60 degrees.
  10. Install the wire harness bracket and the bolt. Tighten to 10 Nm (89 inch lbs.).
  11. Position the starter wiring harness support bracket and install the nut. Tighten to 10 Nm (89 inch lbs.).
  12. Connect the engine oil temperature (EOT) sensor electrical connector.
  13. Install the transmission.
  14. Fill the crankcase with clean engine oil.


Fig. Remove the bolts and the crossmember-F-150 and Mark LT 5.4L Engine


Fig. Position a suitable hydraulic jack under the front axle-F-150 4WD


Fig. Remove the upper front axle carrier mounting bushing bolt-F-150 4WD


Fig. Remove the axle shaft housing carrier bushing bolt-F-150 4WD


Fig. Remove the lower front axle carrier mounting bushing bolt-F-150 4WD

Hope this helps; also keep in mind that your feedback is important and I`ll appreciate your time and consideration if you leave some testimonial comment about this answer.

Thank you for using FixYa, have a nice day

Feb 14, 2012 | 2007 Ford F-150 Super

1 Answer

I have a 2005 uplander and it over heats and loses all antifreeze and we have to keep putting more in it . We cant seem to find where it is coming out from any ide's what might be causing this problem?

My suggestion is to pull the oil dipstick on your vehicle and check your oil level also look at the color of the oil. If the oil is clear looking like you had the oil changed your fine. If the oil is very dark almost black looking, you probably need and oil change but your still fine. If the oil mark on the oil stick is very high and milky in color then I would think you have a blown head gasket on your vehicle and all of your anti freeze is flowing back into your oil pan. This can be a very expensive fix to your vehicle. I hope this helps you out on where to look to find where your anti freeze may be going.

Mar 31, 2011 | 2007 Chevrolet Uplander

2 Answers


With that many miles on the engine it could be sludged up or the oil pump could be failing.

Mar 27, 2011 | Toyota Land Cruiser Cars & Trucks

1 Answer

Broken crankshaft sensor

Thats a common issue for that vehicle,Your gonna have to remove the oil pan so you can push the sensor out from the inside of the engine block.Make sure you clean the oil pan and the oil pickup screen and install a new oil pan gasket before reassembly.

Feb 07, 2010 | 1997 Chevrolet Cavalier

2 Answers


This Depends on a 2 Details, ENGINE Size 4by4 or NOT. Most are Fairly Simple Once the Oil Pan has been Removed and the OIL PAN is Normaly the HARDEST Part of it

  1. Remove the oil pump. Refer to Oil Pump, Pump Screen and Deflector Removal.
  2. A loose screen or pipe assembly can result in an air leak and loss of oil pressure. For more information, refer to Oil Pump Clean and Inspect.
  1. Install the oil pump and the oil deflector. Do not reuse the oil pump drive shaft retainer (4). During assembly, install a NEW oil pump driveshaft retainer. Refer to Oil Pump, Pump Screen and Deflector Installation.
  2. Install the engine oil pan. Refer to Oil Pan Replacement

Dec 09, 2009 | 1999 Chevrolet Silverado 1500

1 Answer

How to change the automatic transmission oil and filter. On 4 cylinder engine

Check fluid level every 12 months or 7500 miles, whichever comes first. Transmission fluid and filter should be changed every 100,000 miles. On THM 250C transmissions, intermediate (front) band requires adjustment every 60,000 miles, or as required.
1. With vehicle on level surface, apply parking brake and let engine run at curb idle. Move selector lever through all ranges, ending in "PARK". Remove dipstick and wipe clean, reinstall, then remove again and check fluid level mark on dipstick. Fluid level should check between "ADD 1 PT." and "FULL HOT" marks on dipstick.
RECOMMENDED FLUID Use only Dexron II or equivalent automatic transmission fluid.
CAUTION: If vehicle has been operated for an extended period of time at high speed, or in city traffic in hot weather, or if vehicle has been pulling a trailer, an accurate fluid level cannot be determined until fluid has cooled down (approximately 30 minutes after vehicle has been parked).
So let's get started... 1. With vehicle raised and drain pan placed under transmission, remove front and side transmission oil pan bolts. Loosen rear pan bolts approximately 4 turns each.
2. Carefully pry pan loose with screwdriver, allowing fluid to drain. Remove remaining bolts and oil pan with gasket. Remove screen/filter-to-valve body bolts and remove screen/filter with gasket.
3. Thoroughly clean pan and screen with solvent and dry with compressed air. Paper type filters should be replaced. Install new gasket or "O" rings, lubricated with clean oil, into screen/filter assembly.
4. Install screen/filter assembly to transmission. Use new pan gasket and install pan. Add proper amount of fluid to transmission through filler tube.
5. Start engine with shift selector lever in "PARK" position and with parking brake set. Check fluid level and add as required. CAUTION: DO NOT overfill.

Best of luck :)

Oct 20, 2009 | 1986 Pontiac Fiero

2 Answers

Anti-freeze leak

The freeze plugs on the back of the block could be corroded and leaking.

Oct 16, 2009 | 2004 Jeep Grand Cherokee

1 Answer

1998 jaguar xj8 consumes anti-freeze

First thing to check is the radiator cap seal. If it is not sealing properly, the water will boil off and then soon, the anti freeze will begin to disappear. Clean the metal surfaces and gasket and make sure it is tight ---or buy a new cap --but make sure there is a seal. If that doesn't cure it, you may have a head gasket leak that blows the coolant (anti freeze) into one cylinder. If that cylinder is tight, the coolant will only evaporate in the heat and be blown out the exhaust --not entering the oil pan. Check your exhaust when you start up. You may see white smoke, or even liquid, exiting the exhaust pipe, indicating a blown head gasket (then engine may run rough, too). If this is the case, there are reasonably inexpensive cures for this in some cases.

Jul 08, 2009 | 1998 Jaguar XJ8L

1 Answer

Do you have pictures of the parts that need to be removed in order to change the oil pan gasket?

Section 03-01: Engine, 4.6L (4V) 1997 Continental Workshop Manual IN-VEHICLE SERVICE Oil Pan/Oil Pump Screen Cover and Tube Removal
  1. Turn rear suspension leveler compressor switch (5K761) off (located in luggage compartment).
  1. Disconnect battery ground cable (14301). Refer to Section 14-01 .
  1. Remove oil level dipstick (6750).
  1. Raise vehicle on hoist.
  1. Remove dual converter Y pipe (5F250). Refer to Section 09-00 .
  1. Drain engine oil from crankcase.
  1. Disconnect engine control sensor wiring (12A581) from the low oil level sensor connector.
  1. Remove the power steering pressure hose retainer brackets from the engine front cover studs (two places). Position the power steering pressure hose (3A719) out of the way.
  1. Remove 16 bolts retaining oil pan (6675) to cylinder blocks (6010) and remove oil pan and oil pan gasket (6710).
  1. Remove two bolts retaining oil pump screen cover and tube (6622) to oil pump (6600).
  1. Remove bolt retaining oil pump screen and cover and tube support brace to main bearing stud spacer.
  1. Remove oil pump screen cover and tube. Discard O-ring.

  2. 02d437f.gif

      Item Part Number Description 1 W701240 Bolt (16 Req'd) 2 6675 Oil Pan 3 6622 Oil Pump Screen Cover and Tube 4 6010 Cylinder Blocks 5 6710 Oil Pan Gasket A — Tighten to 20 Nm (14 Lb-Ft), then rotate 60 degrees clockwise
        1. Inspect oil pump screen cover and tube and replace if necessary.
        1. Position oil pump screen cover and tube on oil pump with a new O-ring and hand-start two bolts.
        1. Install bolt retaining oil pump screen cover and tube to main bearing stud spacer finger-tight.
        1. Tighten oil pump screen cover and tube-to-oil pump bolts to 8-12 Nm (71-106 lb-in). Tighten oil pump screen cover and tube to main bearing stud spacer bolt to 20-30 Nm (15-22 lb-ft).
        1. Clean oil pan and inspect for damage.
        1. Clean sealing surfaces of engine front cover (6019) and cylinder blocks with a clean cloth. If scraping is required, only use plastic-tipped scrapers to prevent damaging the aluminum sealing surfaces.
        1. Position new oil pan gasket on oil pan.
        1. Apply Silicone Gasket and Sealant F6AZ-19562-AA or equivalent meeting Ford specification WSE-M4G323-A6 where engine front cover meets cylinder blocks and crankshaft rear oil seal retainer meets cylinder blocks. Position oil pan on cylinder blocks and install 16 bolts. Tighten bolts in sequence to 20 Nm (14 lb-ft), then rotate an additional 60 degrees clockwise.

      Apr 03, 2009 | 1997 Lincoln Continental

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