Air conditioner relay location 2004 passat

https://www.google.com/search?q=2006+Volkswagen+Passat+2.0+fan+relay+location

https://fuse-box.info/volkswagen/volkswagen-passat-b6-2005-2010-fuses-and-relay


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It has hundreds of fuses and none marked 'cargo' or 'trunk'.

Volkswagen Passat B7 (2011-2015) fuses and relays

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Here you will find fuse box diagrams of Volkswagen Passat 2011, 2012, 2013, 2014 and 2015, get information about the location of the fuse panels inside the ...

Fuses and relays Volkswagen Passat B7, 2010 - 2015

https://car-box.info > fuses-and-relays-volkswagen-pass...

Jan 27, 2021 - Fuse box diagrams for Volkswagen Passat (B7; 2010, 2011, 2012, 2013, 2014, 2015 model year). Photos, layout and assigment of electrical ...
2: Glow plug control unit (457)
4: Low power relay (53)
1: Starter relay 1 (643) - only for vehicles with

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The first video should help

https://www.google.com/search?q=2004+VW+Passat+2.0L.+Turbo%2C+air+temperature+sensor

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Possibly. Check for the proper amount of freon in the system. There are pressure sensing switches that stop the compressor as a safety measure.

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Towards the bottom of the discussion of this thread is the location of the pressure switch, I hope this helps you.

You need to check and see if the cooling fan (electric) on the radiator is coming on. If this fan does not come on the high side pressure will go over 400psi and turn off the compressor until the press. drops. either the cooling fan motor is bad, the cooling fan relay or the fuse for the cooling fan relay. you can check the cooling fan by removing the cover of the power steering reservoir and pulling the wiring harness out from under the bracket. the fan has two wires in its connector, one red and one brown (there may be a tracer color on either one) these two wires are heavy gauge, like #10. unplug the harness and feed power to the connector on the fan side and see if its spins. If it works your problem is probably the fuse or relay. If it doesn't it may be seized or stuck or burned out. Reed, Aquidenck Motors

Your fuel pump relay is on the top part of the fuse panel. It is the relay farthest to the right on the bottom row. If it is still the relay from the factory it will be stamped 67. Hope this helps.

HI. this may be a charge issue and the system should be recharged if this is the case. I recommend going the the below checks so that you may eliminate other causes as well before the recharge.

1. Check Drive Belts - The air conditioner utilizes a drive belt that supplies power to rotate the compressor, which is basically a refrigerant pump. If the belt fails the compressor has nothing to drive it, inspect and replace as needed to restore operation. If belt is intact proceed to the next step.

2. Check for Compressor Clutch Engagement - Turn the air conditioner to the "on" position and set controls to the coldest setting. Start the engine and allow to idle. Then open the hood and inspect the clutch at the front of the compressor, is it turning? "Engaged" if so, the system has enough refrigerant to activate. If the system is low on refrigerant it will not work properly. In this case an air conditioner recharge kit is needed to recharge the system. If the system is low on refrigerant it could cycle on and off, making a ticking noise. If the compressor clutch is not turning proceed to next step.

3. Inspect for Refrigerant Leaks - If the system has a large leak and no refrigerant remains it will not activate. First test system for a static pressure charge, with the engine off attach an ac gauge to the low side pressure port and check the state of charge. Depending on outside temperature there should be between 50 psi and 80 psi. (Cool and warm). A refrigerant leak detector is needed to inspect for leak, but if you do not have a leak detector there is an alternative method. The air conditioner system is designed to run with oil suspended in the refrigerant to lubricate the system. Check for oily residue outside the system by inspecting all hoses, compressor, condenser, evaporator or receiver drier and replace any component that has failed.

4. Inspect Fuses - Check under dash panel and under hood power distribution center. Replace failed fuses as needed, recheck system. If the new fuse fails when reinstalled a short circuit is present and requires diagnosing with a wiring schematic, follow circuits to locate short, repair as needed and recheck system.

5. Check Temperature Control Vents - The vents inside your car are controlled by a cable, electrical servo or vacuum servo. If the temperature blend door is not functioning properly it will cause warm air from the heater to exit the vents. To check this start the car and allow the engine idle, next turn the blower motor speed on low, switch the temperature control from warm to cold while your ear is close to the vents. You should hear the door move inside the heater box as it swings from open to close. If not, insect for a vacuum leak or a shorted motor in the servo, repair the leak or replace the servo motor.

chances are if you system was serviced by modern equipment then they would have pulled a vacuum before recharging .. that would eliminate moisture in the system .. the evaporator is inside your heater box .. you cant see it .. the condenser is the radiator like device in front of your engine cooling radiator ..

if the system is changed properly and still does not work or works intermittantly . then there is a good chance that the air conditioner clutch electronic module is bad .. thats a relay like device located on the drivers side behind the dash .. you have to snap off the dash side panel .. its normally hidden by the door .. inside that is the fuse panel and behind that is the relays/electronic modules .. the one that operates the air conditioner clutch is marked 384 .. there are other possibilities depending on your a more precise description of the problem ..

There is an electrical relay that is malfuctioning. I had the same problem on my 2000 VW Passat. I just got it fixed, part cost 48 dollars and labor will be about an hour.