Question about 2000 Toyota RAV4
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
SOURCE: toyota rav 4
I work for Toyota, and I will be glad to provide you with the actual answer:
The RAV/4 product is available in two models, a 4WD model and a 2WD model.
The difference between the two is on the 2WD model, there is no driveshaft going under the vehicle to the rear wheels, and no rear differential. There is no "RAV/2"; both models are called RAV/4's.
There is a lot of common confusuion about how the 4WD works. It is full time 4WD. In other words, it is always in 4WD. It does not "kick in/kick out/automatically engage", or anything like that. It is 4WD all of the time. But, when I say "4WD", that is sometimes mistaken for "all wheel drive", and, in this case, the RAV/4 is not "AWD". What this means is that if you raise the RAV/4 up on a lift, and put it in gear, 1 rear and the other side front tires will spin. True "all wheel drive" would have ALL 4 wheels spinning. This is not the case with the Rav/4. What the RAV does have, making up for not having "True AWD" on the 5 speed model, however, is a switch that locks the center differential in the transfer case, which, when engaged, applies a method of "locking" the 4WD system for maximum traction, but it is still not AWD. The automatic version doe not have this ability.
The last "true AWD" vehicle for purchase was a 1970's International Scout.
If you are considering purchasing a RAV/4, that is a very good investement. They hold their value quite well, and are virtually bulletproof; I do not make any "money" off my RAV/4 customers...
Just "gas station work". Very nice cars. I hope that this helps you, please feel free to comment back with any otherr questions...Glad to be of assistance.
Posted on Oct 17, 2008
My 96 Camry LE has 9 attachments that are visible. Some have plastic caps covering the screws; others do not. There are screws at the door handle, at the forward portion(with covers) when the door is open and the back edge (small covers). As I recall, there are several friction type fasteners around the perimiter of the panel that can be removed by prying carefully away from the metal portion of the door to free up the trim panel. Once these are loose, the trim around the inside door release handle (the one you pull to open the door) can be pryed in a backward motion. Then the entire panel can be removed by pulling upward and backward at the same time (it easier to do this with the window down). Then it is a matter of disconnecting the wires attached to the various controls for the electric windows and door locks to free up the panel itself. There is probably a plastic skin covering the metal portion of the door. Carefully pull that away to expose the inner workings of the door latch mechanisim. The rest of the procedure should become easy to figure out. I have not removed the exterior door handle itself; but it is a simple mechanism as I recall. Best of luck to you.
Posted on Mar 04, 2009
SOURCE: door panel toyota
1. locate screw holes for door handle (and other areas maybe) and remove. the screws may be located behind plugs that you remove with small flat screw driver
2. disconnect and remove power lock/window unit, usually pries up from one end (rear of car) and slides out. be careful not to stracth leather or upholstry
3. using screwdriver, pry bar, nail bar or other flat piece of metal pry panel away from door one clip at a time. try to pry near the clip, otherwise you risk damaging the panel's interior
post another problem if you get further and still have trouble.
Posted on Oct 26, 2008
remove phillips scew and the door handle. remove padded arm rest on the door by lifting it up, and remove 2 screws. You can use a panel tool to remove the plastic toggle like pins holding the panel border in. Be as gentle as possible they may break due to becoming brittle.
Posted on Apr 06, 2009
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