Question about 2003 Oldsmobile Bravada

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My 2003 olds bravada the awd does not work .on jack stands(all 4 tires off the ground) in drive the front driveshaft turn and a grinding noies comes from the front differenal

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6ya6ya
  • 2 Answers

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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

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Molson02536
  • 3854 Answers

SOURCE: Grinding noise on 2002 Olds Bravada

Try making tight turns to the right and then to the left. see if the grinding noise comes and goes. It could be your C/V joint and they need to be replaced. The noise will only come when your making the tight turns, you don't have to go fast. Walking speed will do and you can hear it with the window open or someone walking beside the Bravada. Good luck and keep me posted. Be glad to help.

Posted on Jun 16, 2009

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bonedivers
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SOURCE: 2004 olds bravada lock in awd and dont shift out

Encoder motor might be bad.

Posted on Jul 27, 2009

  • 521 Answers

SOURCE: jack stand spots?

that is the preferred place designed by the manufacturer

Posted on Sep 23, 2009

gladys_neal
  • 334 Answers

SOURCE: 2005 ford escape 3.0l AWD XLT - DRIVESHAFT CARRIER

if there is some one in your area that balances driveshafts they can change just the bearing for you

Posted on Nov 10, 2009

Molson02536
  • 3854 Answers

SOURCE: I have a 2000 bravada and the awd doesn't isn't

I'm pretty sure the computer controlled NP-136 transfer case (which uses two speed sensors to sense the difference in speed between the front output shaft and the rear output shaft, and engages the front axle accordingly) was installed in 1998 and later models.

These trucks (mine included) use an "Active On Demand" transfer case. Basically its a normal 4x4 transfer case with a big electrically actuated (by way of a motor) clutch that connects the front prop-shaft (which is being spun by the wheels full time) to the transfer case front output. Its all in the transfer case.

Good luck and hope this help, check all the fuses and the wire harness to the encoder motor and replace the encoder motor if it has gone bad. Try bring it to a transmission shop that is familiar with the AWD system on your Bravada. The earlier years were a different system, 1998 was when the change was made. 1997 and earlier use the Borg-Warner 4472, which is always engaged with the use of the viscous coupling. Both were marketed as "SmartTrak" though.

Sounds to me like the transfer case actuator motor is either faulty or it is being told to be on all the time (which it shouldn't be).

Posted on Dec 15, 2009

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4wd silverado 2500 hd


Check the oil in the transfer case. If it has lots of metal in it... time for a new one. They aren't the world's strongest.
Another check: Lift the front of the truck, while keeping the rear wheels on the ground. Engage the 4x4 switch (then turn the truck off) crawl under and try to turn the front driveshaft by hand. If it turns and the wheels turn, the transfer case is the problem if it turns but the front wheels don't... front diff issues. Any grinding, crunching etc is also a clue.

Dec 30, 2013 | Chevrolet Cars & Trucks

1 Answer

While changing the left front tire, my car fell off the jack and now there is a loud grinding noise coming from that tire. What could that noise be?


next time use jack stands. very bad using only a jack for anything.
take it to a mech, and get it fixed , you busted the brakes.
its dangerous to drive too.
if DIY guy, with tools, then you can do this.
spin the rotor (use jack stands and not get killed)
does the rotor wobble , bingo , new rotor time
is it making noise, bingo you bent the backing place, rebend it back.

Dec 01, 2013 | 1991 Honda Accord

1 Answer

Carrier baring


1) Flat level surface, chock the front tires.

2) Jack the rear up just until the tires clear.
USE jack stands. (DO NOT EVER just depend on a jack)

3) Remove the rear bolts holding the rear U-joint in.
Carefully use a tool to pry one of the U-joint cups, until the U-joint comes loose. DO NOT drop the cups off. Keep one hand wrapped around the cups as you pry the U-joint loose.

When U-joint is removed, suggest use black plastic electrical tape, and tape across the two cups, so they do not drop off.

[GOOD time to see if they are dry, and the U-joint is in good condition. DO NOT loose needle bearings ]

4) Remove the bolts that hold the Carrier Bearing Support to frame.
(Put the nuts back on a few threads of the bolts, after putting them back through the holes, in the Carrier Bearing Support strap. This way you won\'t lose them)

Lay the Support strap, and rubber aside.

5) Slide the driveshaft out of the back of the tranny. (Transmission)
It would be a real good idea to go to an auto parts store first, and rent a plug tool for the back of the tranny, once you remove the driveshaft. Keeps the tranny fluid from leaking out. Manual or automatic. (It is plastic, and a cheap rental)

The rear half-driveshaft slips out of the front one.
BEFORE removing make a mark on the front half-driveshaft, and a matching mark on the rear half-driveshaft. The driveshaft is a Balanced unit. Should be put back together the same way, it was taken apart.

Take the driveshaft with the carrier bearing on it to a shop, so they can press the old one off, and the new one on.

Reverse your steps.

(Owner of 1994 GMC Sonoma 2-wheel drive, extended cab. Civilian mechanic on Army base. Work on ALL wheeled vehicles, and track up to, but not including, Abrams M1A2 tank )

Regards,
joecoolvette

Dec 17, 2012 | 1991 GMC Sonoma

1 Answer

Awd disable and anti lock light is on and a grinding noise in the front end


Hi, I can help

You have a bad wheel bearing assembly.
The bearing is starting to seize up, and it is telling computer there is a problem in ABS system, as well as AWD system.

First thing is to locate which bearing it is in the front end of the vehicle.

1)Jack up each side of the front end, place a safety support stand or jack stand under frame of vehicle.
2)Once vehicle wheel is free from ground spin the wheel and listen for grinding.
3)Compare each wheel as you spin and make your best judgment on which is more noisy.
4)This is your problem wheel you need to remember which side of the vehicle is the source of problem when ordering the part from your local auto parts store.

To repair: Remove wheel, remove brake caliper, then brake caliper bracket, then the rotor, remove center axle nut, then remove bolts for wheel bearing hub assembly.
Your ABS and AWD lights will reset themselves upon successful test drive following repair.
Let me know if you need more assistance or pictures.
Good Luck, have a great day.

May 07, 2011 | 2006 Buick Rendezvous

1 Answer

2003 Merc Mountaineer AWD Grinding coming from left front tire. Tires, brakes, rotors all less than a year old, could it be a hub/bearing assembly or something different? Thanks in advance.


Hi and welcome to FixYa!
Looks like a wheel bearing issue. If the wheel bearing is worn out you can expect a grinding sound. Wheel bearing replacement is strongly recommended.

Hope this helps and thank you for using FixYa! Have a good one!

Feb 23, 2011 | 2003 Mercury Mountaineer

2 Answers

2006 ford explorer has a noise that you would swear it was a L/F wheel brg changed it and noise still the same took the old L/F brg and put it on the R/F still same noise??? any thoughts???


When checking to make sure noise is wheel bearings while driving vehicle at speed the noise is loudest (if possible) turn steering wheel back and forth enough to shift the weight of the vehicle from side to side and if it's a wheel bearing there should be quite a bit of difference in the noise.

If about the same noise check the wear pattern on the tires for flat spots or unusual wear pattern if there is rotate tires. If nothing still found jack up vehicle with all 4 tires of the ground. Use jack stands for this. Get some one in vehicle to run it at speed the noise develops, I use a long screw driver (2 feet long) as a stethoscope to find where noises come from. Try with and without 4 wheel drive if possible. Good luck cause noises can be a real pain in the b____.

Jan 05, 2011 | 2006 Ford Explorer

2 Answers

Bad grinding noise that actually binds up the vehicle so it won't go. Sound like brakes but have already replaced brakes, wheel bearings, front axle arms, new tires, and checked the gear, the awd light,...


The problem is likely the transfer case has locked up, the question is do you need it to continue to be an AWD vehicle? If not a simple solution is to remove the driveshaft from the transfer case to the front differential case. Takes maybe 15-20 minutes and there are no leakage issues by doing so. The vehicle will now be a rear-wheel only drive one. I recently did this to our own 2003 model and as the car stays in the south, there is no need for the AWD. The car performs as expected and that binding problem is gone.

Apr 19, 2010 | 2002 Mercury Mountaineer

1 Answer

How do I replace the driveshaft bearing support?


You jack up the truck, and support it on jack-stands. (no wheel must touch the ground, for safety).
Remove the two front tires for visibility.
Put the tansmission in neutral and apply the handbrake.
Get under the truck and in the area of the support-bearing, mark the position of the driveshaft to the flange, which has 4-bolts.
Remove the 4-bolts.
Pry off the driveshaft with a flat-end screwd-river.
Remove the bolts holding up the support bearing.
Drop it down and pull off the support bearing.
Reverse these procedure for installation.

Nov 25, 2009 | 1996 Nissan Pickup

1 Answer

Grinding noise front end.


I say it's the CV joints. You have to jack up under the lower A-Arm, to take the spring pressure off of it, to check them.

(Use jack stands, and wheel chocks behind the rear tires. Emergency brake On. Work on a hard level surface. Be SAFE! Trucks can be replaced, YOU cannot!)

Jul 26, 2009 | 2003 Chevrolet Silverado 2500HD

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