Question about Ford F-100

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My 1974 F-100 often stalls when idling. Is this an adjustment problem or should I install a new carburetor? I just purchased the truck. Runs good otherwise.

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There are a number of reasons for an engine stall and if you are not able to diagnose the problem yourself then you will be dollars ahead to have an expierienced auto technician diagnose the problem for you and take his advise to repair the truck!

Posted on Jul 28, 2010

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I got a problem on a caburaror on aselerate truck 87 dodge


Idles, automatic chokes, and kick down idles must be adjusted. You cannot just install a carburetor rebuilt or new without making idle and linkage adjustments to match the engine requirements. Does it have an idle solenoid adjustment and kick down adjustment, double barreled?. Did you get new springs for linkage? Have a mechanic make the adjustments. Find an older mechanic that knows carburetors.

Feb 12, 2015 | Dodge Cars & Trucks

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Engine only runs at idle


If it's a Chrysler/Dodge product, disconnect the battery for about 10 minutes and re connect it. Try starting, be sure the battery has a FULL charge when you do.

Oct 12, 2014 | Cars & Trucks

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Stalls in drive, runs grear in reverse


Engine stalling and rough run issue at low speeds

This problem is commonly caused by a dirty automatic idle speed control valve and throttle valve. Buy a can of throttle valve cleaner (do not use carburetor spray cleaner!) from NAPA or Carquest (made by CRC chemicals) and spray it into the air intake while the engine is running, use up about 1/2 the can, engine will try to stall hold the speed up, shut it down and let it soak for 30 minutes, restart and blow out the remaining fluid, shut it down and disconnect the negative battery cable for 5 Min's to reset the base idle control

Jul 06, 2012 | Cars & Trucks

1 Answer

Fast idle


The specification calls for 900 rpms for the idle speed when warm for the 1987 Dodge Shadow.

One can adjust this with a screw on the carburetor, if it has one.

If it's fuel injected the idle speed is automatically controlled.

Fast Idle Speed HOLLEY 5220/6520 Fig. 5: Turn the adjusting screw with a screwdriver to raise or lower the fast idle speed — make sure that the adjusting screw is resting against the lowest speed step 86735g04.gif
NOTE: This procedure is performed while the carburetor is installed on the engine.
  1. On 1981–82 cars, disengage the two-way electrical connector at the carburetor (red and tan wires).
  2. On all years, disconnect the jumper wire at the radiator fan and install a jumper wire so that the fan runs continuously.
  3. On 1983–86 models, pull the PCV valve out of the valve cover and allow it to draw underhood air.
  4. Disengage the oxygen sensor system connector located on the left fender shield near the shock tower.
  5. Ground the carburetor switch with a jumper wire.
  6. Open the throttle slightly and place the adjustment screw on the slowest speed step of the fast idle cam.
  7. With the choke fully open, adjust the fast idle speed to comply with the value indicated on the underhood sticker.
  8. Return the vehicle to curb idle, then reposition the adjusting screw on the slowest speed step of the fast idle cam to verify fast idle speed. Re-adjust as necessary.
  9. Turn the engine OFF, remove the jumper wire and reconnect the fan.
  10. Reinstall the PCV valve and remove the tachometer. On 1983–86 models, reattach the oxygen sensor system connector, and remove the jumper wire from the carburetor.
Fast Idle Opening MIKUNI
  1. Before adjustment, leave the carburetor alone for approximately one hour at 73°F (23°C).
  2. Adjust the fast idle opening by turning the fast idle adjusting screw to the following specified values (drill diameter):
    • 2.6L engines equipped with manual transaxles — 0.028 in.
    • 2.6L engines equipped with automatic transaxles — 0.031 in.
Choke Valve Setting MIKUNI Fig. 6: After tightening the choke cover lockscrews, cut the heads off of lockscrews A (total of 3 screws) and stake the heads of lockscrews B (total of 2 screws) with a blunt punch 86735g56.gif
NOTE: This procedure need only be performed if the carburetor is disassembled.
  1. Fit the strangler spring to the choke lever.
  2. Assemble the choke valve, aligning the inscribed line or black painted line on the tooth of the choke pinion with the inscribed line on the cam lever.
  3. Temporarily tighten the new lockscrews.
  4. Set the choke valve by moving the pinion arm up or down, align a punched mark on the float chamber cover at the center of the three inscribed lines, and secure the pinion arm with the lockscrews.
  5. Install the choke cover and tighten the lockscrews.
  6. Cut off the heads off of lockscrews A.
  7. Stake the heads of lockscrews B using a blunt punch.
Vacuum Kick HOLLEY 5220/6520 NOTE: This procedure is performed while the carburetor is installed on the engine. If the vacuum kick is adjusted to open the choke too far, the engine may stall or idle very roughly just after cold start. If it is adjusted so that the choke does not open enough, there may be black smoke in the exhaust. NOTE: To perform this procedure, you will need a hand held vacuum pump capable of producing at least 15 in. Hg (50.6 kPa) of vacuum. The vacuum kick diaphragm may be damaged if you attempt to retract it manually. You will also need a drill or dowel which has a diameter equivalent to the specification for Vacuum Kick in the Carburetor Specifications Chart.
  1. Remove the air cleaner. Open the throttle, close the choke and hold it in the closed position, and then release the throttle to trap the fast idle cam in the choke-closed position.
  2. Disconnect the vacuum hose at the choke vacuum kick diaphragm. Connect a vacuum pump and apply 15 in. Hg (50.6 kPa) or more of vacuum.
  3. Gently move the choke blade toward the closed position just until play is eliminated from the vacuum kick linkage (so that the vacuum kick is determining choke blade position).
  4. Insert the drill or dowel into the gap between the upper edge of the choke blade and the air horn wall, toward the center of the gap. The dowel or drill should just fit into the gap. If necessary, rotate the Allen head screw in the center of the diaphragm housing to create the proper gap and then recheck with the measuring device.
  5. Restore all vacuum connections and reinstall the air cleaner.

Aug 05, 2010 | 1987 Dodge Shadow

1 Answer

Carburetor runs too rich


sounds like you need to get the carburater cleaned and install a new set of spark plugs

Jul 08, 2010 | 2003 Mercury Mariner

1 Answer

The car periodically stalls out


1 Inspect Carburetor Dirty and Improperly Functioning Carburetor. 2 Inspect Carburetor Incorrect Carburetor Adjustment. 3 Inspect Carburetor Worn, Faulty or Damaged Carburetor.

May 22, 2010 | 1993 Buick Regal

2 Answers

1966 chevy stalls at idle


A "straight 6" is NOT a "V6"...whatcha really got?
There couldn't be a more simple car in the world to work on...If you have experience with carbs got ahead and check her out...unfortunately, if you DON'T...just take it to an OLD mechanic, not some kid, and have em look at it...Couldn't be more than $25 and WATCH HIM as he''s doing it.
My hunch is it's the choke assmbly.
Good Luck...you have the BEST engine in the world!!

Jun 23, 2009 | 2000 Nissan Maxima

1 Answer

Idle is too low, car dies, engine runs fine


An IAC (idle air control) motor is designed to adjust the engine idle RPM speed by opening and closing an air bypass passage inside the throttle body. The car computer or ECM (electronic control module) receives information from various sensors and will output signals to adjust the IAC motor in or out to adjust engine idle speed by controlling engine idle air.
An IAC motor is highly susceptible to carbon and coking build up; if an IAC goes too long without cleaning it can cause stalling and poor idle quality. Some cars are designed with a large vacuum transfer hose that connects the intake manifold to the IAC (idle air control) motor. If a broken or dilapidated these vacuum lines can cause the engine to lose vacuum which will allow the engine to run rough and die. 
Inspect all engine and accessory vacuum lines to look for missing, torn or dilapidated lines and replace as needed. To check the IAC motor remove the unit, with the wires connected turn the key to the "on" position without starting the engine, the IAC should move in or out. 
If the IAC motor does nothing it has probably failed, replace it with a new unit and recheck system. Note: while the IAC motor is removed clean (use aerosol carburetor cleaner) the passages the IAC uses to control idle air speed.

Good luck and hope this helps

May 08, 2009 | Honda CR-V Cars & Trucks

2 Answers

1988 F-250 460 engine stalls when dribing down the road


On older, carbureted engines, cold stalling (and hard starting) is most often due to an automatic choke that is sticking, misadjusted or broken. Cleaning the choke mechanism with aerosol carburetor cleaner may free up the choke allowing it to work properly again. If the choke housing as an electrical heating element, the element may not be receiving voltage when the key is on, or the element may have burned out (check resistance with an ohmmeter).

Other causes of stalling with a carburetor include an idle speed adjustment screw that is set too low (turn screw to increase idle speed rpm). The engine may stall if the idle fuel mixture screw(s) are not adjusted correctly or the idle mixture port(s) are dirty or clogged with fuel varnish deposits (clean the carburetor and readjust the idle mixture screws for smoothest idle). Stalling can also occur is there are vacuum leaks in the carburetor, under the carburetor (bad base gasket), or any vacuum hose connections to the carburetor or intake manifold

Jun 22, 2008 | 1988 Ford F 250

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