Question about 2004 Isuzu Rodeo
1) when slowing down to park or coming to ared light the car cuts off but will start right back up.2) After backing out of the drive way when you push the gas pedel the car has no power and takes off. I changed the spark plugs, alternator and battery (which both went out a couple of weeks ago). It has a clean air filter and regular oil changes. It has 110000 miles and runs great other than these few problems
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
SOURCE: gas in spark plugs
generally speaking it will be oil fowling plugs rather than fuel, but to do it that quickly you should be seeing lots of blue smoke and a sinking oil level. I have seen fuel fowl plugs but generally **** fuel. you should probably check the plugs are the correct ones for the car, all plugs have differing uses and just cause they fit dont make em right. you could also look at the condition of the rest of your ignition system ie condition of leads, coil/coil packs. Another thing you could check it the condition of the throttle body, looking for fuel colouring additive build up, or even wether it is set correctly (obviously a job for diagnostic tool).
Posted on Jun 22, 2008
Make sure the ground wire going out of the voltage regulator is grounded and the alternator ground is good.Check all ground wires to there are the ones that stop the over charging.Theres also is a small little capacitor that should bolt right next to the regulator that holds alot of the over charging..
Posted on Mar 30, 2009
these O2 sensors are cat convertor check sensors. id be checking cat convertors and hopefully you should try replacing if not all ready is the front bank 2, O2 sensor
if you have scanner can you see fuel trims in data display to confirm high fuel trim only on bank 2 either +-5 or more indicates problem and if bank 2 sensor 2 has fixed high 700mv reading cat no good(warm idling)
Posted on Jul 10, 2009
the lights come on and the power steering goes because the engine has stalled while you are driving. it is the exact same condition as when you turn the key to the "on" position w/out actually starting the engine (all the same lights will be on and no steering because engine not running).
as for why this happens...sadly there are too many possibilities to usefully list here.
This is the basic equation for why your engine runs:
fuel + spark + compression = a running engine
The fact that your engine usually works means you can discount the compression piece of that equation.
This leaves fuel and spark. If loss of spark is the cause of the stalling, it is almost definitely in the primary side of the ignition system which means: don't go get a 'tune-up'. Tune-ups almost never-ever-ever fix driveability problems. The primary side of the ignition system consists of the crankshaft position sensor, camshaft position sensor and engine computer...to name a few things.
It is also possible you are losing fuel pressure intermittently, which could be due to a failing fuel pump, but this is an unusual presentation. Typically they are found to be bad when you try to start it up initially rather than **** out in the middle of running.
Then again, this whole thing could very possibly just be due to a loose wire connection in a really unfortunate place. Impossible to tell from here, so you'll probably have to settle with taking it in somewhere. I will say this: don't waste time/money taking it to a shop until it absolutely will not start up again. Shops can't diagnose a problem unless it actually has the problem while they are looking at it. good luck
Posted on Sep 29, 2009
After market spark plugs could be the problem.
Reinstall the old plugs and see if that fixes it.
This vehicle has an ion sensing ignition system and is real sensitive to the proper spark plugs. I would get the proper plugs from the dealer if the old ones work.
The codes P1311 and P1312 are ion sensing codes.
Posted on Oct 19, 2009
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